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Old 05-15-2010, 11:53 AM   #241
XRider
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If you think you re-wound the stator incorrectly then test the voltage coming out of it. Disconnect everything and use a multi-meter set to AC volts and see where it's at.

If that checks out and your lights are still dim it's most likely a short somewhere. They can be tricky to find so I'd start by selectively unplugging things.
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Old 05-15-2010, 11:55 AM   #242
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I'm still catching up on the thread but reading your old posts I think I grounded out the headlight and ran it dc style. I haven't messed with ac systems much.

I'll check the output and the wiring on the headlight and get back to you guys. Its getting hot in arizona so I'll probably be riding more at night and it would be good to see where I'm going.

Btw thanks for the thread!
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:35 AM   #243
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First let me thank you for the existence of this forum,

I recently bought my xr650r, I seems to me that is the same model as the australian. Does have a place to install turns lights to. But no battery.

Just need to know if is secure to install two fog lights of 55W each on headlight wire.

I already have the fan to install, is it better with a battery ?

Best regards,

Pedro
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:05 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sput
First let me thank you for the existence of this forum,

I recently bought my xr650r, I seems to me that is the same model as the australian. Does have a place to install turns lights to. But no battery.

Just need to know if is secure to install two fog lights of 55W each on headlight wire.

I already have the fan to install, is it better with a battery ?

Best regards,

Pedro
If you run two 55w lights and the headlight off the headlight wire you will over load and melt the headlight switch. I think your version of the XRR has a 180w stator so you should be able to power the extra lights but you'll need a relay to control them. A 10 amp fuse for the lights would be good also.
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:44 PM   #245
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So I'm pretty sure that my headlight dimness is from too small of wires and not floating the ground. So my plan is to take two wires off of the regulator input and just hook it up to the light. Baja designs 8" 55w, and mystery reg. It shouldn't need a second ac reg/rec because it already has the dc reg/rec, so the dc reg rec will just use what is left. Or am I completely wrong?

The yellow off this



and hooking it up to this(it shouldn't matter which is which because its ac, right?)

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Old 05-28-2010, 10:10 PM   #246
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You sort of lost me with what you want to do but from the pictures I can tell you this. That appears to be a DC regulator/rectifier in the picture. The two yellow wires should be connected directly to the stator. If you tap into the yellow wires to power the headlight and the DC reg/rect the light will quickly burn out because the voltage from the yellow wires is unregulated. The black and red wires from the reg/rect should connect to your battery and from there you should be able to power your headlight also. If the wires to the headlight are too small it can make the light dim but they will also get hot and the fuse should blow. Use 16 awg wire for the light and it will be fine. BTW running the reg/rect without a battery or cap for an extended period of time will smoke the reg/rect. A battery pack with an internal short will also make the light dim. You need to get a volt meter and confirm you are getting proper voltage out of the stator and then out of the reg/rect. If you've never used a digital multi-meter before, post back and I'll tell you how to do the tests.
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Old 05-28-2010, 10:59 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
You sort of lost me with what you want to do but from the pictures I can tell you this. That appears to be a DC regulator/rectifier in the picture. The two yellow wires should be connected directly to the stator. If you tap into the yellow wires to power the headlight and the DC reg/rect the light will quickly burn out because the voltage from the yellow wires is unregulated.
That was what I was planning on doing. I won't do that then. The current wires to the headlight are 20 awg, what I am planning on putting on is 16 awg. My battery fell off on a rough road. I didn't get around to putting on a new one yet. So I guess that is part of the issue. Hopefully I didn't fry the reg/rec. I am planning on getting a capacitor, (http://www.trailtech.net/040-CAP27.html) Do I need the bigger version? It only has a led taillight other than the headlight and a 12v socket(which I plan on using to charge cellphone/ipod/gps eventually, once I get everything figured out)

I actually used to wire up ambulances for a living, I've just always had issues with making my own systems. Always learning, thanks.

I'll scare up a multimeter, and let you know.

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Old 05-29-2010, 01:00 AM   #248
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20 awg wire for the headlight is waaaaay too small.

The debate between using a battery or a cap is never ending but I prefer a small 1.2 Ahr lead acid battery. This is especially true if you plan on having any electronics like a gps. The battery will keep the gps powered up with the engine off and makes for cleaner more stable power. Caps can make your regulator oscilate and IMHO they're nothing but trouble.

Electrical systems for the XR are tough to get right. It's easy to tell when it's not working but you can't tell when you're close. It's good you're jumping in with both feet and learning by doing. Most people are to scared to even touch it. You've almost got it so hang in there.
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Old 05-29-2010, 04:27 AM   #249
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XRider,

How do you measure what is coming out of a stator with a voltmeter?

You also don't like Cap......I had my bike set with with the single 200 watt system, HD reg/rec and the small battery pack from my old BD kit.

I don't know which came first but I smoked the battery pac and every bulb on my bike the reg/rec was putting out between 24-30 volts. I replaced the HD Reg/rec with the same and put a cap back in recommened by Ricky Stator ( its off a quad) and with no load it does bounce between 11 and 19 volts. If I turn on my big head light (give it something to do) she is rock solid around the 12/13 volt range. I originally used the battery pac because it setteled the voltage a bit.........I am not sure what failed first or why.

I DS this bike and have just decided to leave the Cap in the system and run my headlight and it seems to be happy.

Does it hurt anything for the voltage to bounce a bit?

Thanks,
Tim
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Old 05-29-2010, 04:34 AM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr
This is the exact problem I'm having but unfortunately it looks like the issue was solved through pm. Can anybody explain this to me? My rectifiier is grounded, my stator rewound and my 8 inch racelight dim. It was a year ago so I don't want to go throwing pms around trying to dig up an answer from these guys.

The only thing is my taillight is somewhat dim as well. It is all wired through the same rectifier/regulator however. I thought I might have rewound the stator wrong.

I had this problem.........turned out to be the small metal pc in under the case that holds the stator wires in place was touching the stator and grounding it out..........easy to ck with continuity test by checking the stator wires going to the reg/rec.......see if either one is grounded.
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Old 05-29-2010, 09:45 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunslinger1
XRider,

How do you measure what is coming out of a stator with a voltmeter?

You also don't like Cap......I had my bike set with with the single 200 watt system, HD reg/rec and the small battery pack from my old BD kit.

I don't know which came first but I smoked the battery pac and every bulb on my bike the reg/rec was putting out between 24-30 volts. I replaced the HD Reg/rec with the same and put a cap back in recommened by Ricky Stator ( its off a quad) and with no load it does bounce between 11 and 19 volts. If I turn on my big head light (give it something to do) she is rock solid around the 12/13 volt range. I originally used the battery pac because it setteled the voltage a bit.........I am not sure what failed first or why.

I DS this bike and have just decided to leave the Cap in the system and run my headlight and it seems to be happy.

Does it hurt anything for the voltage to bounce a bit?

Thanks,
Tim

To measure the voltage from the stator set your meter to AC volts and set the range for X10. Disconnect the green and the white/yellow wires from the regulator. Connect one probe (doesn't matter which one)from the meter to the GRN wire and the other probe to the WHT/YEL. Leave all the other stator wires connected or the bike won't run. Start the bike and the meter will read around 20 volts and will go quite high as you rev it. If you have a Ricky stator you connect the probes to the GRN and the WHT wires.

It doesn't hurt the lights to have the voltage "bounce" around a bit but I do believe it will shorten the bulbs life span a little. HID lights need clean power and so do many GPS'.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:37 PM   #252
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Alright I checked the green and white/yellow wires coming out of my stator. I'm getting about 39 volts at idle, 100+ revved up, with about 75 at a normal "cruising" rpm.(I don't have a tach). I don't think its grounding to the case but I'm having issues checking that. I'm getting 1.4 on the 200 ohm scale across the g and w/y wires. But I'm also getting 1.4 from g to case, and 1.4 from w/y to case.

After screwing with it a bit, I think I may have wired it up ac, and then have no way to get power out of the cap. Either way, I am going to be tearing into it.

I did pick up a capacitor today a 25000 uf skinny one. hopefully it will run my crap.

How can I check to make sure I haven't fried my reg/rec?

Damn thing is supposed to be in mexico now. Crap.

Edit for more info: I've got the dc wires out of the reg hooked to my capacitor and I was seeing 14 volts there but after checking voltage at the stator I decided to hook up the reg/rec with the bike running and now I'm seeing a steady 35 volts at the capacitor.

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Old 06-02-2010, 01:55 AM   #253
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If you have the regulator/rectifier connect to the stator wires and the black and the red wires from the reg/rect connected to the cap (with the black wire also connected to the frame) and you are measuring 36 volts at the cap then you reg/rect is toast. I don't mean to be insulting but the meter was set to DC volts when you checked the cap right? Don't laugh I've done this. BTW it's never a good idea to make or break connections when the system is hot.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:36 AM   #254
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I just wanted to share a little software that I used a lot when I was working in Marine Electroncis.
It allows you to calculate wire size for a given load, wire length and voltage drop. Or you can reverse it to find out how much voltage you are losing with your current setup...
And yes, it's free:
http://www.midcoast.com/~aft/index2.html
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Old 06-02-2010, 09:43 AM   #255
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yeah dc volts. I knew that about connecting stuff hot....really I did, stupidity got the best of me. The bright spark was a good indication too, oops.

I threw in the towel for now. I set it back to where everything worked but was dim and I'm taking it to mexico. I'll fix it when I get back.
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