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Old 01-23-2009, 07:37 AM   #16
ThumperDRZ
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Joined: Sep 2005
Location: Stinkin' County, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
ThumperDRZ,
Don't connect the RS stator in parallel (both 100w legs) to the Baja D reg/rect. You will smoke the reg/rect. as it is only rated for 130w. You will also smoke the battery pack. If your buddy wants to run a 100w headlight power it from one of the 100w legs from the stator and install an AC regulator (and a 15 amp fuse). That way you can leave the Baja kit alone. If you want to be able to turn the 100w light on and off you'll need to install a relay. Most switches can't handle the current used by that big light but one of those small (about 1" square) automotive relays will be up to the task. I have two 55w halogen off road lights on my XR. I connected a wire to the high beam indicator lamp to trigger the relay. So the halogens go on automaticly when I switch on the high beam. BTW if you look at the instructions that came with the rickey stator you'll see that they recomend useing the 200w single output configuration for a pure AC system only. And only if you can find a heavy duty AC regulator.

BTW I did the very thing you and your friend are planing and cooked $120 worth of parts. No reason both of us have to learn the hard way. I can send you a schematic of how I have my lights hooked up if you want. Just PM me.

- PM sent. He all ready has the bike wired and it's working. I downloaded the RS schematics and see what you are referring too regarding the single 200w output stator. I'll know more tomorrow when I actually see the bike.

Thanks
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Old 01-23-2009, 11:32 AM   #17
arrcrussell
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Just a bit of info concerning my setup. Running a single circuit 200W stator, with a Ricky Stator heavy duty regulator. All AC system - blinkers, headlights, etc, no battery. Wired it myself. Dual 100W headlights, one permanently on (no switch) and the other switched via the bar switch, no relay. Plug for electric vest too. I don't run any accessories ie GPS etc thus no need for DC. Also, fortuneately no DMV inspections in OH thus no need for battery and the "parking light on while parked" bullshit!
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Old 01-23-2009, 01:54 PM   #18
XRider
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arrcrussell,

I'd love to hear the story that goes with your avitar. As Homer would say, doughhh....
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Old 01-25-2009, 08:20 AM   #19
freeflow
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Joined: Dec 2004
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finally diagnosed a problem with my Baja kit on one of my XRs.

signal flasher relay is toast. I think due to a broken/shorted rear signal wire that chaffed against the dirtbags rear subframe extension.

battery pack is shot too.

stock stator BTW. good thing I read not to hook the ricky stator single to baja kit. I still have stock stator. nice setup Hodakaguy .

I'm gonna go to batteries plus to see if they can make me a new batt pack.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:51 AM   #20
Gunslinger1
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I'm gonna go to batteries plus to see if they can make me a new batt pack.[/quote]




If you do not need the battery to pass inpection with the taillight staying on when the bike dies..............you can install a capacitor in its place and you won't have to mess with the battery. Call RS and they will give the Honda part # it is one off a 4 wheeler. 25 bucks for the part.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:21 PM   #21
269gs
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How many DS kits has Baja Designs sold for the XR650r? How can I find out which one I have if I am not the original owner?
I will pull the Left side cover tomorrow to see what my stator situation is.

XR rider, pm sent regarding your offer to send schematics.
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:14 PM   #22
ZenMoto
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I also have my BRP set up with the rICKY sTATOR (2X100W). I have them split, 1 to the rectifier feeding horn, signals, heated grips and tail light, and 1 to an AC regulator feeding a Baja Designs 8" halogen race light (not really legal here in CA, but they don't really inspect anyway so...).

The single 100w feed doesn't provide enough juice to give me adaquate power for the 8" light, even with a 55w bulb, so I'm trying to redesign the system as we speak.

However, I have converted all my signals and tail light to LED units which are far more duarble, and draw much less power! If you convert your signals to LED, note that you need a different flasher relay to provide the correct voltage to the LEDs or they won't work. The tail light unit I have is "supposed" to work as tail/brake light, but seems permanently stuck on "brake" so that's another thing I'm looking into. lol

I may sacrifice the horn and battery and go full AC just to get the light output I want. I don't really ride on the street anyway, I just have it plated so I can do dual sport rides like the LA to Barstow to Vegas, etc..

I'm glad to see a thread like this, as I'm in the middle of redoing everything. Please post up what works for you!

D
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:48 AM   #23
Hodakaguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
I also have my BRP set up with the rICKY sTATOR (2X100W). I have them split, 1 to the rectifier feeding horn, signals, heated grips and tail light, and 1 to an AC regulator feeding a Baja Designs 8" halogen race light (not really legal here in CA, but they don't really inspect anyway so...).

The single 100w feed doesn't provide enough juice to give me adaquate power for the 8" light, even with a 55w bulb, so I'm trying to redesign the system as we speak.

However, I have converted all my signals and tail light to LED units which are far more duarble, and draw much less power! If you convert your signals to LED, note that you need a different flasher relay to provide the correct voltage to the LEDs or they won't work. The tail light unit I have is "supposed" to work as tail/brake light, but seems permanently stuck on "brake" so that's another thing I'm looking into. lol

I may sacrifice the horn and battery and go full AC just to get the light output I want. I don't really ride on the street anyway, I just have it plated so I can do dual sport rides like the LA to Barstow to Vegas, etc..

I'm glad to see a thread like this, as I'm in the middle of redoing everything. Please post up what works for you!

D

Whats your light doing? Is it just dim/yellow? I'm running a single 100W AC leg to my 8" light with a 100W bulb and its extremely bright. ???

Hodakaguy
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:21 AM   #24
Zapp22
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+1

This subject is THE subject in doing an XRR buildup. What Hodaka and XRider are providing is so necessary. You gotta get this step right, and make it bulletproof [or weatherproof, better yet] using high-grade harnesses and splices, otherwise you're going to be a very unhappy owner down the road a ways. I've really been wanting to see someone complete a "Kit" for rerunning all the wiring, all the spigots including accessories tied to these High-Output stator designs.

The only thing I would add to the OP is that the Euro versions of XRR, or the XRL for that matter, have some wiring schematics that are very helpful in understanding all this stuff. The XRR over there has lights...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdinand
This thread rules!! Keep the great info coming!!!
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Old 01-27-2009, 05:25 AM   #25
Gunslinger1
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[quote=Zapp22]+1

using high-grade harnesses and splices



What type of harness and splice is "high-grade"? and where do you purchase it?
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:59 AM   #26
themansfield OP
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BAck with an update on my setup.

Got schematics .pdf package from XRider, got the soldering iron hot, installed a fresh new handlebar switch and got to business. After a good deal of splicing and soldering and fixing PO's wacko wiring job, DS kit lights all work properly except for little "running light." At this point I'm saying hell with it because I've got the low and high beams that work as they should.

Now I'm poised for a home stator rewind as per the instructions on 4strokes.com. A quick read through them leaves many procedural questions, but I figure if I botch the job I'll just get a BD or Ricky anyhow. Any help with a better set of directions or some tips would be great.
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Old 01-27-2009, 11:33 AM   #27
ZenMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodakaguy
Whats your light doing? Is it just dim/yellow? I'm running a single 100W AC leg to my 8" light with a 100W bulb and its extremely bright. ???

Hodakaguy
Basically, besides the flickering, it is just dim and yellow, as you said. I think the stock Baja Designs "DS kit" light put out as much light. My setup for that leg is currently 100W lead -> BD AC rectifier -> high voltage toggle switch (bar mounted) -> 8" race light. There's really nothing in the circuit to sap power, and even at consistant revs the light never gets really bright.

Originally I had the 100W bulb in there and thought the 100W feed might not be putting out enough juice to fully energize that bulb so I put in the 55W, but am getting basically the same amount of light. :(

So at this point I'm a little torn. I'd like to have the DC power and battery so my tail light stays on if the bike stalls, etc., but really am tempted to just chuck it and run the whole system AC.

...thoughts?

Thanks,
D
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:05 PM   #28
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
Basically, besides the flickering, it is just dim and yellow, as you said. I think the stock Baja Designs "DS kit" light put out as much light. My setup for that leg is currently 100W lead -> BD AC rectifier -> high voltage toggle switch (bar mounted) -> 8" race light. There's really nothing in the circuit to sap power, and even at consistant revs the light never gets really bright.

Originally I had the 100W bulb in there and thought the 100W feed might not be putting out enough juice to fully energize that bulb so I put in the 55W, but am getting basically the same amount of light. :(

So at this point I'm a little torn. I'd like to have the DC power and battery so my tail light stays on if the bike stalls, etc., but really am tempted to just chuck it and run the whole system AC.

...thoughts?

Thanks,
D





You may have a ground that is suppose float as opposed to grounding to the frame off your rectifier.
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:14 PM   #29
ZenMoto
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I'm not sure what you mean by a floating ground. The rectifier is grounded to the frame and I've done a continuity check to ensure it was a good ground. Are you saying that the ground isn't supposed to be grounded?

...I'm just not sure I'm following.

Thanks,
D
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Old 01-27-2009, 01:30 PM   #30
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
I'm not sure what you mean by a floating ground. The rectifier is grounded to the frame and I've done a continuity check to ensure it was a good ground. Are you saying that the ground isn't supposed to be grounded?

...I'm just not sure I'm following.

Thanks,
D


pm sent
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