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Old 07-05-2010, 04:46 PM   #316
XRider
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A standard reg/rect is rated at about 150w and the easiest way to wire it into your stock harness is with a dual sport kit. If you don't want to go that route you'll have to make your own harness that connects to your stator. Not a small job and more than I can explain with just words here.
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:48 PM   #317
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DeathDealer, nice job! Sano installation.
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Old 07-06-2010, 05:40 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
A standard reg/rect is rated at about 150w and the easiest way to wire it into your stock harness is with a dual sport kit. If you don't want to go that route you'll have to make your own harness that connects to your stator. Not a small job and more than I can explain with just words here.
Thanks for the help so far I have an Australian spec 650R so it comes with a duelsport kit .Blinkers horn and switches bright dim etc .
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:33 AM   #319
lstzephyr
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I killed my capacitor. I had everything wired up with all my positives on the postive pole of the cap and all my negatives on the negative pole of the cap. I had been meaning to change the negative wiring but I got excited/lazy and just wanted to ride! Apparently something made it fail, I don't know if the negative wiring caused it but its my guess. I got a new slightly higher voltage(20v, 18000mf) cap, and wired that in with my grounds on the frame and the blue wire on the negative of my cap.

So far so good, we will see if I get more than a couple weeks out of this second cap.(Although granted with all my "tests" and mistakes I may have shortened the first capacitor's life)

I'll go to a battery if I have to, but at 6 bucks a cap I can afford to experiment a little.

Thanks again for all your help. I really learned a lot. It only took 30 minutes to diagnose and repair it this time(I found my multimeter so that helped). I love riding this thing around at night and being able to see where I'm going!
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Old 07-14-2010, 02:48 PM   #320
arrcrussell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
Of all the people I know that have tried to re-wind their own stator not one of them stood the test of time.
Mine is going on its 4th year with no problem. However, you don't know me so I guess your statement still holds.

All kidding aside, mine is on its 4th year. No battey, running an all AC circuit with twin 100 watt RickyStator lights and his regulator. I'sd say I put 3,000-5000 miles a year. The Xr650 is a effin' hoot on fire roads.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:34 PM   #321
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Pissed Electrical Problems

My bike is an 2000 Xrr with BD kit, I rewound the stator myself, and was running a 50w bulb, LED everything else, with Acewell Computer. The headlight is rarely used except at night, I run a white LED strip light for DRL in the daytime.

I recently had my local Batteries Plus build a battery pack to replace the aging Baja Designs one that would no longer take a charge.

The bike worked great for about a month, then I started noticing the computer would work erratically, and the turn signals would stop flashing. I pulled the seat and found the new battery pack had melted!

I did not blow the fuse, and I removed the battery. If I run without the battery the Acewell computer still works very erratically.

I am not sure what would have caused the battery pack to fail. Would it be better to use a lead acid battery, or a capacitor instead of the nicd pack? Not sure what to do at this point.

Any help is appreciated!
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:21 AM   #322
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Check the charge voltage with engine running. Much more than 14v will cook batteries. If it's too high the rec/reg is rogered.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:40 AM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by af300e
Check the charge voltage with engine running. Much more than 14v will cook batteries. If it's too high the rec/reg is rogered.
Without a battery connected I am getting:


@ idle............ @7000rpm
11.8v .............8.5v .............Red wire
5.8v............... 5.8v............ 1st yellow wire
4.8v............... 2.4v ............2nd yellow wire
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:44 PM   #324
lstzephyr
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Hmm, that just seems wonky. The voltage on the red wire should rise slightly for a couple rpm then stabilize. Try testing it again, but keep the yellow wires plugged in and check across red/black on your rectifier.

The yellow wires should be hooked to your chassis stator wires. They should be pretty high voltage(a/c)

Edit:if you weren't running your headlight during the day its likely that you over charged the battery and fried either the battery or the regulator. The regulator should be fine but if the voltage is too high without having a load(headlight) it can fry it. What kind of regulator do you have? On the trailtech there is a voltage limiter for small batteries. I'm not sure if the BD is the same but it may be something to check for.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:03 PM   #325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsuz12
....Batteries Plus....
There's your problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsuz12
Without a battery connected I am getting:


@ idle............ @7000rpm
11.8v .............8.5v .............Red wire
5.8v............... 5.8v............ 1st yellow wire
4.8v............... 2.4v ............2nd yellow wire


Sounds about right to me for no battery. If your regulator packs in it'll kill your battery too, but then without a battery you'd get higher voltage rather than lower.
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Old 07-29-2010, 08:21 AM   #326
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevsuz12
Without a battery connected I am getting:


@ idle............ @7000rpm
11.8v .............8.5v .............Red wire
5.8v............... 5.8v............ 1st yellow wire
4.8v............... 2.4v ............2nd yellow wire
The DC (red) is low, it should stabilize at 13.5~14.5 VDC at anything above 2200 RPM and the most accurate check for DC is going to be with your battery in, VR/Rect can get flakey in a few different ways when connected to a load.

You're checking the A/C (yellow leads) incorrectly, ac needs to be checked across the 2 yellow leads, and it should be a considerably higher reading then what you're showing even with the AC regulator in the system.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:29 AM   #327
brp2004
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Wiring diagram for baja designs quick release kit

I need a wiring diagram for baja designs quick release kit. Anyone have a link?
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Old 08-07-2010, 03:18 PM   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brp2004
I need a wiring diagram for baja designs quick release kit. Anyone have a link?
Go to B/D web site, they have pdf's on all the stuff they sell.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:58 PM   #329
chevsuz12
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Problem Solved!

I returned the melted battery pack to batteries plus, and they gave me an even exchange on a lead acid battery that is 12v, 1400ah. It just barely fits under the seat, but works great.

All voltages are good now. All electrical issues are gone!


Lets hope it lasts.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:39 AM   #330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garthe
Go to B/D web site, they have pdf's on all the stuff they sell.
Thanks for the help, but I'm looking for the quick release schematic, they only have the standard schematic on their site, I guess I will have to contact them directly on Monday. I was hoping someone had one saved somewhere.
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