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Old 03-21-2012, 05:12 AM   #766
BuRPsa
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Slab,

another idea is to switch the unused power to a shunt when the light's off, rather cook a resistor instead of your regulator.
Would keep it simple too, maybe an idea.


Haven't been here for quite a while but noticed XRider mentioned he was sick, and had to ease on his time spent here.
Any news on him, rephrase, GOOD news on him?
If you read here dude, wish you the best! You're one of the stalwarts of this forum, I always enjoy your knowledgeable & friendly contributions.
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:24 AM   #767
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OK, I'm a dick, just read that XRider's back & fine.
Comment still valid though
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:40 AM   #768
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Originally Posted by XRx View Post
Question 1, Can I use relays from the same switch assembly to run accessories off of two different legs of the stator? As mentioned I have two R/R's, two of everything, though the two switch assemblies are different, old vs. new style.

Question 2, How about if I ran the headlights on AC, I can't run them through the BD low/highbeam switch can I if I'm running the other stuff off DC thru the switch?
Yes & Yes, as long as you use relays.
Keep in mind the relays (coils) must be powered by DC, but thereafter you can do anything you like.
I'm doing similar things, dual DC circuits in my case, and I'll be using relays.
Relay-wise there's a lot out there, single throw, throw-overs, double's etc andsoforth, so choose what you need.

You're right in assuming you need to keep high currents out/away from the switchgear, and the use of relays just just that. Some say that this complicates matters, but if you ask me then it simplifies it, as long as you realize that you'll have low-current wiring (call it signal wiring) as well as higher-current wiring (the actual functional circuit).
On this (duh, and no offense intended), you need to keep the wire-thicknesses corresponding, you chaps call it the gauge I think.
Most crucial - for any wire you use on the bike - is to use real automotive wire. This is multi-stranded very flexible wire, not house-wire or something. I've seen abortions due to exactly this, the use of the wrong type of wire, it will break - and fixing that means replacing all, pls note.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:49 AM   #769
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Slab,

another idea is to switch the unused power to a shunt when the light's off, rather cook a resistor instead of your regulator.
Would keep it simple too, maybe an idea.


Haven't been here for quite a while but noticed XRider mentioned he was sick, and had to ease on his time spent here.
Any news on him, rephrase, GOOD news on him?
If you read here dude, wish you the best! You're one of the stalwarts of this forum, I always enjoy your knowledgeable & friendly contributions.
The stock regulator is fairly heavy duty. Not sure the exact rating but I don't think you need to worry about it unless you're combining two stator outputs for 200w. But in that case it's the least of your worries as your lite gauge BD wires start failing. You can check with BD, RS, trailtech (they make an adjustable regulator). Just calculate your expected load and check the reg rating. Don't worry about the power the regs have to dissipate, that's what they're made for.
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:25 PM   #770
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Hello i could use some help. I have a RS 200 watt stator, RS rectifier/regulator, and a RS capacitor.I need to run 2 aux lights plus my vapor computer. Do i replace the stock regulator with the rectifier/regulator. Or run both of them. And does the capacitor just wire into the rectifier/regulator like a battery would red to red black to black.And can i pull power for lights off the pos/neg off of the capacitor . Also i was planning running single output 200 watts.I also have a ProCycle dual sport kit. Any help would be very welcome Thanks.

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Old 03-29-2012, 09:16 AM   #771
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Can anyone tell me what the Ah rating of the Baja Design NiCad battery pack is? After 2 and a half years of service, mine has finally bit the dust and I am looking at replacing it with a small SLA battery. I found one in similar size, but the Ah rating is only .8 Ah. Right now I am still on the stock stator and am only running the stock BD Dual Sport kit. I have no extra electronics hooked up, so my draw is minimal (headlamp, led tail/brake lamps, standard turn signals, and Acewell digital dash.

-Joe
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:25 AM   #772
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Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
Can anyone tell me what the Ah rating of the Baja Design NiCad battery pack is? After 2 and a half years of service, mine has finally bit the dust and I am looking at replacing it with a small SLA battery. I found one in similar size, but the Ah rating is only .8 Ah. Right now I am still on the stock stator and am only running the stock BD Dual Sport kit. I have no extra electronics hooked up, so my draw is minimal (headlamp, led tail/brake lamps, standard turn signals, and Acewell digital dash.

-Joe
I was wondering similar. When my BD DSK NiCad pack died, I replaced it with a similar home built Nimh pack of 10 1.2v 2300mAh AA's. So by my underqualified math, my entire battery should be 2.3Ah? Seems higher than the small SLA's, but I could be missing something. EDIT: As can be seen in my next post, that math is not correct, as only one of my cells is 2.3Ah! I'll be changing that though!

I'm tempted to try something else, but going to hold off until I try the upgraded stator I'm working on, first.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:34 AM   #773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
Can anyone tell me what the Ah rating of the Baja Design NiCad battery pack is? After 2 and a half years of service, mine has finally bit the dust and I am looking at replacing it with a small SLA battery. I found one in similar size, but the Ah rating is only .8 Ah. Right now I am still on the stock stator and am only running the stock BD Dual Sport kit. I have no extra electronics hooked up, so my draw is minimal (headlamp, led tail/brake lamps, standard turn signals, and Acewell digital dash.

-Joe
Okay, I dug up my old BD Nicad pack. I had already stripped off the shrink wrap, to investigate the cells. I can tell you that it is ten cells. Label on each cell says Sanyo Cadnica, NiCd, 1.2V, 700mAh. So that should add up to as a unit .7Ah at 12V, yeah?

Now that gets me thinking. My Nimh pack I made, all of the cells are not the same, 8 match, which are not labeled mAh, one is labeled 2300mAh, and another now that I look is 2100mAh. So now as I investigate more, my unlabeled cells are probably cheaper and lower Ah. So maybe I'll upgrade to all premium cells. They add up money wise though. EDIT: whoah now with a little investigation, I see that the low end rayovac, which assuming they just changed the graphics, both not labeled for mAh, rayovac.com says 1.4Ah :-o definitely need to scrape together ten of the higher mAh cells.

Can someone tell me an advantage to SLA over the Nimh that I am missing?
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:39 AM   #774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRx View Post
Okay, I dug up my old BD Nicad pack. I had already stripped off the shrink wrap, to investigate the cells. I can tell you that it is ten cells. Label on each cell says Sanyo Cadnica, NiCd, 1.2V, 700mAh. So that should add up to as a unit .7mAh at 12V, yeah?

Now that gets me thinking. My Nimh pack I made, all of the cells are not the same, 8 match, which are not labeled mAh, one is labeled 2300mAh, and another now that I look is 2100mAh. So now as I investigate more, my unlabeled cells are probably cheaper and lower Ah. So maybe I'll upgrade to all premium cells. They add up money wise though.

Can someone tell me an advantage to SLA over the Nimh that I am missing?
From what I understand, the SLA battery should have a longer service life than the NiCad. Also, replacement cost (if not building your own) is about $10 vs. the $40 through BD. The .8 Ah unit I found at zbatteries is about the same dimensions and weight of the stock BD part, but then I am no electronics guy, (which is why I am asking all of you ).

-Joe
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:52 AM   #775
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Does anybody know a way to test a battery for actual Ah capacity, short of putting a load on it and letting it drain and timing it? I'd like to know if my older 2.3/2.1 Ah batteries are still anywhere close to that, and in general, it would be nice to be able to check that from time to time, to know when to replace them.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:17 AM   #776
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Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
From what I understand, the SLA battery should have a longer service life than the NiCad. Also, replacement cost (if not building your own) is about $10 vs. the $40 through BD. The .8 Ah unit I found at zbatteries is about the same dimensions and weight of the stock BD part, but then I am no electronics guy, (which is why I am asking all of you ).

-Joe
I just did some reading at wikipedia, Nimh, then lead-acid, then VRLA. I think I am convinced that I want a VRLA, partly for the charging flexibility.

I don't see how many volts per cell they are though. I'm thinking 2v per cell?
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:16 PM   #777
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Does anybody know a way to test a battery for actual Ah capacity, short of putting a load on it and letting it drain and timing it? I'd like to know if my older 2.3/2.1 Ah batteries are still anywhere close to that, and in general, it would be nice to be able to check that from time to time, to know when to replace them.
I have some kickass chargers I use for my electric rc airplanes. They measure the capacity as it charges, as well as charge every type of battery chemistry out there. Even if you aren't playing with rc toys, I think they are a good investment. About $30-$100 can get you one. There are various models and makes, here is an example http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=7028
if you are talking about SLA batteries, and they are old I would bet they are weak. SLA suck for things like this. They work best as standby batteries.

I would suggest replacing it with A123 systems 18650 1.1Ah Lithium iron(LiFe) batteries. I built my own pack with 4 in series and they have been working well for a year now. You could double them up for a 2.2Ah pack. The LiFe batteries kick ass, they have very high discharge capacities, are very stable, tolorate abuse, don't explode like LiPo, and are just awesome. They will be replacing the LAs in future. A word of caution though, stay away from the cheap chinese knock offs. I tried a set for half the price and one cell died after about 20 hours of riding.

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Old 03-29-2012, 12:45 PM   #778
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I have some kickass chargers I use for my electric rc airplanes. They measure the capacity as it charges, as well as charge every type of battery chemistry out there. Even if you aren't playing with rc toys, I think they are a good investment. About $30-$100 can get you one. There are various models and makes, here is an example http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=7028
if you are talking about SLA batteries, and they are old I would bet they are weak. SLA suck for things like this. They work best as standby batteries.

I would suggest replacing it with A123 systems 18650 1.1Ah Lithium iron(LiFe) batteries. I built my own pack with 4 in series and they have been working well for a year now. You could double them up for a 2.2Ah pack. The LiFe batteries kick ass, they have very high discharge capacities, are very stable, tolorate abuse, don't explode like LiPo, and are just awesome. They will be replacing the LAs in future. A word of caution though, stay away from the cheap chinese knock offs. I tried a set for half the price and one cell died after about 20 hours of riding.
Thanks for the info. The LiFe's sound fairly impressive. Do you maintain your LiFe other than your bike's charging system?

Today is the first day I've really looked at any of this. I got thinking about my bike's charging system. I'm new to this though and obviously could have some of it wrong. But the way I understand it so far, is that the only thing controlling my charging is my BD R/R, which as far as I know doesn't take at all into account the charging/overcharging state of the battery. So far it seems to me that the VRLA's are most tolerant to over charging, are also very cheap, and I get the impression that they can put out more current, though for a shorter period, than my Nimh. So I think my plan will be to for now pick my best AA cells for my pack, then change to a VRLA when I get around to it. If not as good, still good enough, and much cheaper than the LiFe's.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:09 PM   #779
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Originally Posted by XRx View Post
Thanks for the info. The LiFe's sound fairly impressive. Do you maintain your LiFe other than your bike's charging system?

Today is the first day I've really looked at any of this. I got thinking about my bike's charging system. I'm new to this though and obviously could have some of it wrong. But the way I understand it so far, is that the only thing controlling my charging is my BD R/R, which as far as I know doesn't take at all into account the charging/overcharging state of the battery. So far it seems to me that the VRLA's are most tolerant to over charging, are also very cheap, and I get the impression that they can put out more current, though for a shorter period, than my Nimh. So I think my plan will be to for now pick my best AA cells for my pack, then change to a VRLA when I get around to it. If not as good, still good enough, and much cheaper than the LiFe's.
I don't maintain the batteries. At first I thought I would pull them every couple months to balance charge them, but that hasn't happened in a year and they still work as well as day one. There is no special charging circuit or anything else, they just wire in parallel to my dc circuit. They total nominal pack voltage is 4x3.3v=13.2v. Fully charged voltage is 14.8v. So there is no worry about over charging. They handle a high charge rate too, so there is no need to regulate the charge current.
I run a RS 250w r/r. I started out with a capacitor, but found the RS r/r lets some voltage spike through; it isn't the cleanest r/r. The leakage caused the cap to charge above 16v, which raised hell with my HID. That is why I went to the battery route.
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:18 PM   #780
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I don't maintain the batteries. At first I thought I would pull them every couple months to balance charge them, but that hasn't happened in a year and they still work as well as day one. There is no special charging circuit or anything else, they just wire in parallel to my dc circuit. They total nominal pack voltage is 4x3.3v=13.2v. Fully charged voltage is 14.8v. So there is no worry about over charging. They handle a high charge rate too, so there is no need to regulate the charge current.
I run a RS 250w r/r. I started out with a capacitor, but found the RS r/r lets some voltage spike through; it isn't the cleanest r/r. The leakage caused the cap to charge above 16v, which raised hell with my HID. That is why I went to the battery route.
Can you point me to the battery you are using? How much power does your HID use?

You mentioned your cap getting up to 16V, that is kind of what I was thinking re overcharging, that the r/r isn't exactly a smooth 15V or whatever V it's rated.
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