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Old 04-07-2012, 10:28 PM   #796
Erndog
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XR progress

http://www.xr650rforum.com/t1416-baj...stator-install

Instead of burying the info here I thought I'd start a fresh (short) thread with plenty of pics. Enjoy..... :)
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:59 PM   #797
RideFreak
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I think you guys are worrying over nothing, good discussion but I doubt it's applicable in this situation. Typically heat is generated by high current flow, that being the case, the 250W stator under full load (everything running) is going to be the biggest heat generator. My system when run unloaded has never caused any issue and I've done it all day long, basically 200W going nowhere. I've also ridden with the battery unhooked with no issues. BD systems and many Baja racers run WFO all day with zero or almost zero load on their stators, at night they mount up lights in the pits, plug 'em up and finish the race. Automotive systems that put out much more wattage than ours have run under very small loads during daytime running for years. Motorcycles used to have off on switches on the lights, when turned off they were basically running unloaded. I just don't see it as being an issue in our case.
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:01 AM   #798
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My xrr has the ricky stator 100x2 stator and I only use 1 leg.but my current draw is very low.The only standard bulbs are the front turn signals and they are 3 watt bulbs.the rest of the bike has all led's including the head light.the head light draw is about 1.5 amps.I have a 4" spal fan on the rh radiator and I have no problems running all the lights and fan together.I have that cheasy baja designs nicad and i am thinking about 1 of the new lithium batteries for an upgrade .It would be nice to use the headlight for 1/2 hour or so with the motor off.If i was was going to run a heated vest I would try to run it on the other leg of the stator with the oem honda a/c voltage regulator.rough math calculations give 100 watts= 8.3 amps.My headlight will run about 3 minutes with the engine off
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Old 04-08-2012, 01:15 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I think you guys are worrying over nothing, good discussion but I doubt it's applicable in this situation. Typically heat is generated by high current flow, that being the case, the 250W stator under full load (everything running) is going to be the biggest heat generator. My system when run unloaded has never caused any issue and I've done it all day long, basically 200W going nowhere. I've also ridden with the battery unhooked with no issues. BD systems and many Baja racers run WFO all day with zero or almost zero load on their stators, at night they mount up lights in the pits, plug 'em up and finish the race. Automotive systems that put out much more wattage than ours have run under very small loads during daytime running for years. Motorcycles used to have off on switches on the lights, when turned off they were basically running unloaded. I just don't see it as being an issue in our case.
I agree. Heat hasn't proven to be a reason to avoid a full power stator. Seems to me it's only a good thing to have power available when needed, especially for a bike as versatile as the XRR.

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Old 04-08-2012, 09:18 AM   #800
DocAxeYarYar
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Stator install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erndog View Post
http://www.xr650rforum.com/t1416-baj...stator-install

Instead of burying the info here I thought I'd start a fresh (short) thread with plenty of pics. Enjoy..... :)
Nice thread you have, and thanks for sharing it. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

So, in going "all DC" what does this involve?

What is the battery you are running (cant make out the specs in the pics)

Did you consider one of the new Shorai batteries?


Thanks!
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:41 AM   #801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I think you guys are worrying over nothing, good discussion but I doubt it's applicable in this situation. Typically heat is generated by high current flow, that being the case, the 250W stator under full load (everything running) is going to be the biggest heat generator. My system when run unloaded has never caused any issue and I've done it all day long, basically 200W going nowhere. I've also ridden with the battery unhooked with no issues. BD systems and many Baja racers run WFO all day with zero or almost zero load on their stators, at night they mount up lights in the pits, plug 'em up and finish the race. Automotive systems that put out much more wattage than ours have run under very small loads during daytime running for years. Motorcycles used to have off on switches on the lights, when turned off they were basically running unloaded. I just don't see it as being an issue in our case.
Very helpful insights, thanks. Only thing I'll point out is a car alternator is in open air, allowing for far easier cooling. but it sounds like as long as the wire is not too small, it is not a problem. Thanks again.
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #802
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If you are worried about heat from a 200w stator, don't.

A good rule of thumb for motors (or alternators/generator) is 3w per gram of weight. So we have 200w and the stator weighs how much? Yeh, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:14 PM   #803
XRx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erndog View Post
http://www.xr650rforum.com/t1416-baj...stator-install

Instead of burying the info here I thought I'd start a fresh (short) thread with plenty of pics. Enjoy..... :)
Good writeup. I've never removed my shifter to remove the cover though, I just click it down out of the way as if shifting into first, then it's out of the way, well on my bike anyway.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:18 PM   #804
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRx View Post
Very helpful insights, thanks. Only thing I'll point out is a car alternator is in open air, allowing for far easier cooling. but it sounds like as long as the wire is not too small, it is not a problem. Thanks again.
No problem XRX but gotta I disagree with ya on the alternators. Temps inside a car's motor compartment get pretty high, esp with an alternators proximity to the exhaust manifold. The majority of automotive alternator failures are caused by caused by cheap mass produced componets (usally the diodes) that breakdown over time due to heat, not by exceeding their electrical specifications. Both BD and RS stators are good quality and rarely suffer from problems with the windings. The home wound stators are a different story, some guys do a great job with zero issues, some don't.

If you read this entire thread you'll discover most of our failures are caused by crappy wiring harnesses, bad batteries, faulty DS designs or overloaded regulators in the case of the BD units. I'm not familiar with the Electrosports stuff but the RS or BD stator in a dual configuration is about as reliable as as you're going to get for a do all DS setup. IMO, time is best spent doing a good job on the wiring where most of the problems seem to come from. Quality connectors, proper guaged wire and good wire managment are the key to avoiding the majority of problems discussed here.
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:39 PM   #805
DocAxeYarYar
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wiring

RideFreak
"IMO, time is best spent doing a good job on the wiring where most of the problems seem to come from. Quality connectors, proper guaged wire and good wire managment are the key to avoiding the majority of problems discussed here."

Great advice! I can see how rushing the job could lead to some poor wiring and/or bad connections. Thx!
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:03 PM   #806
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
RideFreak
"IMO, time is best spent doing a good job on the wiring where most of the problems seem to come from. Quality connectors, proper guaged wire and good wire managment are the key to avoiding the majority of problems discussed here."

Great advice! I can see how rushing the job could lead to some poor wiring and/or bad connections. Thx!
Thx, don't forget a well thought out plan also, it took me 2x to get the system how I wanted it.
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:06 AM   #807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
RideFreak
"IMO, time is best spent doing a good job on the wiring where most of the problems seem to come from. Quality connectors, proper guaged wire and good wire managment are the key to avoiding the majority of problems discussed here."

Great advice! I can see how rushing the job could lead to some poor wiring and/or bad connections. Thx!
Yeah, exactly, not rushing the job is the challenge. In my case, I didn't take enough time planning the wire management. Now I'm having to redo part of my harness.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:33 AM   #808
DOD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldxr View Post
My xrr has the ricky stator 100x2 stator and I only use 1 leg.

What did you do with the other leg? Leave it open?

I'm rewiring a new to me XR and it came with a 200W Ricky Stator and until I upgrade the lights I only need about 60W.

Thanks,
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:15 AM   #809
Kevlar49
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Wanted to share some of the leg-work I've done in converting my XR-R to DC-only. I completely rewired my bike very similar to this when I went to make it street-legal, but I'm doing a major engine rebuild, and adding a hi-low HID kit while I'm at it, so I'm cleaning up and redoing the wiring harness again (just for fun?).

I rewound the stator myself with a single output (in addition to the stock ignition output). Should be ~200 W. Running that through a Tympanium regulator/rectifier, with a quad-cell A123 lithium ion battery (primarily for the headlight). Hope this is helpful to others!



Ohhh yeah MS Paint...

Kevlar49 screwed with this post 04-09-2012 at 11:35 AM Reason: Updated drawing
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Old 04-09-2012, 12:25 PM   #810
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlar49 View Post
Wanted to share some of the leg-work I've done in converting my XR-R to DC-only. I completely rewired my bike very similar to this when I went to make it street-legal, but I'm doing a major engine rebuild, and adding a hi-low HID kit while I'm at it, so I'm cleaning up and redoing the wiring harness again (just for fun?).

I rewound the stator myself with a single output (in addition to the stock ignition output). Should be ~200 W. Running that through a Tympanium regulator/rectifier, with a quad-cell A123 lithium ion battery (primarily for the headlight). Hope this is helpful to others!



Ohhh yeah MS Paint...
Kevlar, nice job esp for MS Paint.

Only issue I see is it looks like the battery is on all the time

Procycle sells a dual circuit key switch that's pretty nice, grounds the kill wire in the off pos and opens the battery circuit, no more secure then the hidden kill but it performs both functions. For an HID application I'd probably use the key circuit it to fire a mini relay since I'm not sure what it's rated at and the HIDs initial surge current is up there.

Do you have a link to that VR/Reg? I got a rewire job going on right now (non XR) and it's a 300W that I want to run all DC.
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