XR650R electricity

[Kevlar49]

Originally Posted by RideFreak

If you use a Derale thermo switch for the fan you don't need the relay, the switch will handle the current draw of the spal fan. I didn't know that when putting mine together so I have the relay, had I known it would have simplified the system a little.

Really? Awesome! Thanks for the tip, I was kind of wondering if such a thermo switch existed (I can't imagine the SPAL fan draws more than an amp or so...).

[Kevlar49]

Then again... I want the fan to run off of a switched power source so that it shuts off with the bike. Which either means running the fan power through the key switch as well (which is already supplying power to the front and rear running lights, turn signals, plate light, horn, and headlight - or at least whatever minimal current the HID switching circuit draws), or using a relay. Wish I could find a current rating on that key switch. I think I'm going to reach out to K&S and see if they'll give me a spec. That would certainly simplify my wiring, but I don't want to fry an ignition switch.

If I do have to use a relay, I guess I should really just use it for all of the switched power, instead of just the fan (and run the fan as you say directly through the thermo switch). That way I could wire other accessories later to the +12V Switched and not worry about current draw.

[windquest]

Originally Posted by Kevlar49

Really? Awesome! Thanks for the tip, I was kind of wondering if such a thermo switch existed (I can't imagine the SPAL fan draws more than an amp or so...).

Ride Freak is right, I've used the same switch on my ktm fan on the XR. 10,000km later it still works great. don't waste your time on a relay and manual switch...

[Kevlar49]

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ntoryId=666640

Is this the one you guys used? Do you have it on switched power or always-on?

[windquest]

Originally Posted by Kevlar49

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ntoryId=666640

Is this the one you guys used? Do you have it on switched power or always-on?

That's the one, I don't remeber which temp it was, I would comfirm that with Ride Freak. I have mine always-on, but next time I redo my electrical I will have it on switched power to minimize my wiring and complexity.

[KYLEISCOOL]

Originally Posted by sion

I have. On my 02 XR250R about 3 weeks ago...I was using a Ricks HotShot CDI that just up and died on the way back from a dual sport ride. Left me on the roadside about 5 miles from home...had the old lady bring my truck down to pick me up. I was fortunate to have a cell signal and enough battery power in the phone to send out a help text.

Right now I have the stock unit back in the bike and have purchased another Ricks which I keep as a spare.

I would stick with oem CDI's. Less to worry about and better reliability.

[Gildus]

Originally Posted by KYLEISCOOL

I would stick with oem CDI's. Less to worry about and better reliability.

+1 on the oem CDI

[RideFreak]

Originally Posted by Kevlar49

http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ntoryId=666640

Is this the one you guys used? Do you have it on switched power or always-on?

That is the one I bought except mine is 180 degrees, 190 is probably a little better. I installed it inline with a coolant hose similar to the KTM add on setup. Lex made the hose adapter. The system only comes on when riding tight singletrack, traffic and parked while idling. THe SPAL pulls 3A but it moves allot of air.

I have mine wired in so it's enabled by the key and is activated by the temp, that's the only advantage I see to running the fan on a relay. When I come to a stop and shut off the bike the fan turns off, wiring the sensor to a 12V all the time would keep it running till the coolant at the sensor dropped below the threshold or the battery went dead, since flow stops when the motor is shutdown that might be a little while.

The system works nice, I don't worry about cooling the bike, it's totally automatic When something happens trailside and I need to help pick up a bike or move a branch etc I just park the bike and leave it running. In stop n go traffic it comes on when it needs to and shuts off when its cool enough. Prior to that, when riding at anything over 90 degrees, we'd stop on the trail and I needed to shut off the bike or it was boiling over in a min or two. Now it will sit there and idle as long as I need and never boil. I glance at the coolant level ocassionally but haven't needed to top it off since installing the fan.

I'd be a little concerned running an aftermarket CDI out here, too remote. The OEM is pretty reliable and if you want performance AND OEM reliability, you can always use the 86 XR4 CDI unit.

[XRider]

Originally Posted by Kevlar49

Updated my wiring diagram again. Included provisions to add a fan at a later date (just going to add the relay connector and other wiring to the harness now). If it starts running hot once summer hits, I'll just plug in a relay, put a thermostat switch in the radiator or an in-line coolant hose adapter, and plug a fan in.



Oh, also, the ignition switch showed up today. Looks like it will work well. It's a K&S part (item number 12-0062). Kind of wish I had known that before ordering, because I found it on another site for a little over $20 shipped, whereas the total through ProCycle was $46.25. They charged me $9.30 shipping for a tiny little USPS priority VHS-sized box, and a $4 "Handling Fee." What a bunch of bullshit...


Oh, I also updated my non-keyed wiring diagram to include the diodes (plus a few minor tweaks).

Holy smokes, nice schematic!

[XRx]

I see that the wiring grommet on my stator is molded onto the wiring. If you order a RS or BD or other stator, does it come with a molded grommet? How about if you rewind your own? I am rewinding my own for dual outputs, and still figuring what to do for the grommet.

[Erndog]

Kevlar, I just had a small, maybe incorrect, thought. But here it is: Isn't the kill switch circuit AC and needs to be isolated (floating ground) from the DC circuit that appears to use the frame as ground? Or is it the other way around, floating DC ground?

[Gildus]

Originally Posted by Erndog

Kevlar, I just had a small, maybe incorrect, thought. But here it is: Isn't the kill switch circuit AC and needs to be isolated (floating ground) from the DC circuit that appears to use the frame as ground? Or is it the other way around, floating DC ground?

Now you've opened a can of worms . Depends on how you've wired your bike. Many of us float the DC ground (per Ride Freak's model) and don't connect it to the frame at all (with the exception of the metal housing of the RS R/R (has it's own shielding circuitry for this). The ignition AC circuit and kill switch are direct frame ground. XRider suggests a different model for DC grounding and his way works too, just depends on your wiring philosophy.

[WOLVERINE]

Question? What would cause the horn/LED sigs to only activate when the rpm is up just a tad from idle and not at idle? Weak battery or bad rectifier?

[XRx]

Originally Posted by XRx

I see that the wiring grommet on my stator is molded onto the wiring. If you order a RS or BD or other stator, does it come with a molded grommet? How about if you rewind your own? I am rewinding my own for dual outputs, and still figuring what to do for the grommet.

Anybody? I'm considering trying to plug where the grommet was with high temp RTV.

[Kevlar49]

Originally Posted by Erndog

Kevlar, I just had a small, maybe incorrect, thought. But here it is: Isn't the kill switch circuit AC and needs to be isolated (floating ground) from the DC circuit that appears to use the frame as ground? Or is it the other way around, floating DC ground?

Hmm... I think you may be right. I know that you CAN have common grounds (I ran my bike just fine previously with a similar, if simpler, wiring configuration, and everything worked fine, kill switch included), but now that you mention it, I may run into charging/discharge issues now that I'm adding a battery. I'm thinking floating the AC ground would be pretty simple - the only place I have the ignition coil/cdi circuit connected to ground is through the kill and the single ground near the coil, so I could just remove that grounding location and run the kill 'grounds' right back to... the green/white wire, correct?

My only question would be - doesn't the spark plug ground to the case? How does the ignition system work if it's not grounded to the engine/frame? Is the stator itself grounded?