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Old 07-19-2012, 08:08 PM   #946
FlyGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenmotarded View Post
Hey guys I picked up a 01 XRR a couple weeks back and I've been slowly making my way through all the maintenance to get it right. The previous owner had some unknown high output stator in conjunction with a BD DSK installed when I picked it up which has since died on me. It started to dim and flicker until there was almost no light output at all. The battery is rather large and tests well mounted in a ok-ish mount over the trans under the tank. It's wired following http://www.bajadesigns.com/docs/tech...-sport-kit.pdf but flickers and barely makes any light which means its wrong. I'm going to go complete DC system since I'll end up with HID's shortly I'm sure.

So I really just have a couple questions:
EDIT: Electrosport maybe?... I'm Going to be pissed.. Wiring seems to differ from electrosport. and there is no continuity between the 2 legs.
1# Does anyone recognize this stator? It has 17 poles and 6 Wires headed out. Black and Red to coil, Yellow and Orange on 1 leg and white and green on another leg. The Harness also has the 2 wires for the trigger.


2# Since I don't know what kind of stator it is I'm unsure of the wattage and thus have to find a High wattage R/R so I don't potentially toast it. Could I run 2 BD R/R's in parallel 1 leg each into 1 battery and dc circuit? Or would that cause a problem since the 2 legs and R/R's might be charging at different voltages. I know RickyStator makes a 200watt R/R but I also know that there are stators that make more than that.

Thanks in Advance!
looks like a three phase generator that has been running one one phase
you need a three phase regulator or three single phase regulators (like most most XR650r have) AC or DC
that one coil in your picture above looks like the varnish is burnt and may be shorted?
I would be interested to know if you get it working and how it works.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:22 PM   #947
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Thought provoking there.

As I understand, the XRR flywheel has six evenly spaced magnets that correspond to the 12 poles of the stator. So the spacing makes all of the magnets pass by all of the coils at the same time, making for smooth power.

So are you saying that if that someone tried to use a 3phase stator on there, with 17 poles, so they don't align with the 6 magnets properly, would that cause a problem? I'm having a hard time visualizing, but it seems that maybe since they don't all pass simultaneously, the power delivery may not be smooth.

Also I see what you are saying about the three phase and burnt insulation, as every third pole looks burnt so implies three phase, is that what you were getting at?

Anyway it seems like with the 17 poles vs 6 magnets, that the power generated in each pole may be working against the rest, creating lots more heat, and maybe working for a while, but eventually burning out the insulation.

Is all that what you were getting at or am I way off?

Anyway, I would try to find a used stator on ebay or the flea market here. They tend to go on ebay anwhere from $20 to $150. I know this because I bought one a while back to rewind for more power, which did work out nicely.

I wouldn't expect that stator to work well though, because it has 17 poles instead of something divisible by six, but I could be wrong.
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:18 AM   #948
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[QUOTE=XRx;19170551]Thought provoking there.

As I understand, the XRR flywheel has six evenly spaced magnets that correspond to the 12 poles of the stator. So the spacing makes all of the magnets pass by all of the coils at the same time, making for smooth power.



Lots more info here - http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189734
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:01 AM   #949
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[QUOTE=jm-2008;19171889]
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRx View Post
Thought provoking there.

As I understand, the XRR flywheel has six evenly spaced magnets that correspond to the 12 poles of the stator. So the spacing makes all of the magnets pass by all of the coils at the same time, making for smooth power.



Lots more info here - http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189734
You are correct. I was pretty clueless until I studied that thread for a while, which enabled me to successfully rewind my stator. Just hadn't thought before about what happens if it's different spacings between the stator poles and the magnets. If nothing else it seems like it would be less smooth power delivery, and at worst you might have poles working against each other, causing wires to heat up more than normal. Just throwing out there for something to think about, and maybe someone with a better grasp than me is more sure of what would happen in that case.
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:37 AM   #950
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[QUOTE=XRx;19172054]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post

You are correct. I was pretty clueless until I studied that thread for a while, which enabled me to successfully rewind my stator. Just hadn't thought before about what happens if it's different spacings between the stator poles and the magnets. If nothing else it seems like it would be less smooth power delivery, and at worst you might have poles working against each other, causing wires to heat up more than normal. Just throwing out there for something to think about, and maybe someone with a better grasp than me is more sure of what would happen in that case.
Hay XRx hows the trany rebuild going?

Actually 3 phase is smother power as there is no zero voltage point like in a single phase
most big street bikes are this way as well as cars.

But a possible problem you are referring to is that the peak magnetism needs to align with the center of the poles on the core or efficiency diminishes quick.
in other words the center of the positive and negative portion of a individual magnet needs to align with the center portion of two poles of a single phase portion of the core (like you see on the burned windings above the individual magnet needs to be aligned between two burnt windings at the same time)
hope that make a little sense

If they do align that look like a great setup
hope he gets it going and reports his findings
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Old 07-21-2012, 05:33 AM   #951
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[QUOTE=FlyGuy;19179075]
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRx View Post

Hay XRx hows the trany rebuild going?

Actually 3 phase is smother power as there is no zero voltage point like in a single phase
most big street bikes are this way as well as cars.

But a possible problem you are referring to is that the peak magnetism needs to align with the center of the poles on the core or efficiency diminishes quick.
in other words the center of the positive and negative portion of a individual magnet needs to align with the center portion of two poles of a single phase portion of the core (like you see on the burned windings above the individual magnet needs to be aligned between two burnt windings at the same time)
hope that make a little sense

If they do align that look like a great setup
hope he gets it going and reports his findings
It's on it's way back together at least. Haven't worked on it in about a week. Maybe a better fix, in the mean time, picked up a sweet tricked out '09 CRF450X last week. So far as I can tell it was built for Dirt Bike Magazine I think Jan. '09 issue. Still trying to find a copy. But emailed with Enduro Engineering, and he verified and sent a huge pic of identical bike new. Gonna take it out today
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:12 PM   #952
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Well guys a little update, I still have no idea what kind of stator this is or where it came from. I checked all the leads and the stator checks out ok, even though some of the windings look questionable as you all have noted. I have been able to spend some more time on the XRR and rebuilt the harness to run DC from one set of charging leads and AC from the other. So far it looks like the initial issues started with improper wiring which eventually destroyed the battery. Whomever did the install previously negated to float the DC or AC ground which took out the battery and was causing oscillation with the dc rectifier/regulator. I replaced the battery with the recommended 1.2 ah alarm battery, rebuilt the harness and floated both, but left the factory coil wiring alone. I've got 13.8 at idle on the dc side with everything on, which is everything except the headlight. The headlight is the weak sauce BD dsk light but runs full brightness on low at idle, I wired in a dc controlled relay for AC high beam switch over, and run both high and low beam elements in the bulb when high beam is activated, and that runs full brightness just off idle. So far it looks promising. Hopefully I'll get the rest of the maintenance and mods done over the weekend and will do a full report after a proper ride while monitoring voltage. This is a bit of a half step but should hold me for a while until I can make a plan for more lighting, likely hids and more goodies.

I've read the entire thread and want to thank you all for you input and information. I plan on reading the stator thread when I get the time, but for now I want this thing back together so I can ride
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:14 PM   #953
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Fricken,
I am pretty sure that I an Electrosport stator. I have one just like it. They do not have a picture on their website but they do have a wiring diagram. Give them a call and see what they say. I hope that helps, Tony
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:20 PM   #954
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/ElectroSport...-/380378826582
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:43 PM   #955
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Old 07-26-2012, 07:27 AM   #956
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Thanks guys, I thought the pole arrangement resembled an Electrosport but hadn't seen the floating coil version.It's definitely the one you posted thouk, it's identical to the picture you posted FlyGuy, wire colors and all. At least now that confirms the wiring theory I had deduced. Hopefully it serves me well and last's!
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:28 AM   #957
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Haven't read here for ages!

XRr,

Flyguy said a while back, on diodes "i would run two in parallel to give a near 6 amp rating". You can do that but I'd put a small resistor (~0.5Ohm) before each diode, so as to balance out the legs in an attempt to truly 'halve' the current. If you don't you may risk one taking the brunt, and if it does the circuit will fail. If the current is big enough buy power resistors, just calculate the Wattage you need, times 2.
Didn't have a look at your application but just keep in mind that the threshold-voltage will remain, which is what, 0.8V?


RJVlieger,

with a nick like that you must be Dutch, so I will continue in beschaafd Nederlands om eea echt overduidelijk te maken.... nah, won't You asked for a rectifier for driving a Spal off the std AC. If it was me I'd just rectify it by means of a 4-diode component called a Graetz rectifier block. This is a very small thing with 4 (solder)legs, 2 AC & 2 DC. The picture here will show you how small it is: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge
Get a unit rated 50V and good for say 6A (or a bit more, never hurts), and connect up without any fancy ado like cap or why, not needed for a motor, it'll run. Switch by thermostat or manual switch et presto, Bob's your uncle.


Edit: don't believe the tape measure you see in the picture of the link, saying the larger block is about 4 METERS in size! LOL
Obviously centimeters, so that thing's just over an inch in size - and it is a high current one by the looks of it.

BuRPsa screwed with this post 08-20-2012 at 09:33 AM Reason: LOL - an error in the picture of Wikipedia
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:50 AM   #958
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On Electrosports stators, pls know that there's two types out there!
They are dual circuit stators, but differ in the older ones having a common connection or a ground midway, and the newer one's (which I have - phew!) which are separate and fully floating. Hence you can do anything with the latter but are a bit limited with the former.
I'd measure mine if I were you, to see what you've got: if a lowish resistance is found either between both coils and/or ground it is the older type, with which you have to keep the AC & DC grounds separate.
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:06 PM   #959
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I have an NX650 that seems a bit low on power, when the motor is reving the turn signals work just fine, when at idle they stay on and stop blinking, anything I should be looking at?

would a new stator be worthwhile?, i like to run some dual head light on the bike
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:05 AM   #960
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I'd try e new blinkerrelay first, or get one for LEDs, they even work when a globe greets.
If you need more pwr for lights - yeah, a bigger stator would do the job then.
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