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Old 09-14-2012, 08:14 AM   #961
bajabusdoc
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ac relay help

I have ac only system
use bar switch high low to run headlight
would like ac relay to run aux lights when high beam as 165 watts would melt wire through switch
where and what relay do I need to get since ac only?
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:49 PM   #962
red clay
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I went with rickystator for my XRR. 200 watt stator, two 100 watt leads. One lead to the baja kit which I altered with led lights, a new flasher relay, and moose handwarmers (with only the low power wire attached). The other lead goes to two billet lights (also bought from rickystator) at 50 watts a piece. Lights up the night road, now I ride at night for fun. The billet lights come in shiny chrome but some black paint takes the bling away. The billet lights are halogen. You can buy the bulbs in any hardware store. Only once have the bulbs blown and that was from a pretty good digger of a crash. Good products and rickystator is very helpful with advice. Cheers




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Old 10-11-2012, 10:51 AM   #963
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Originally Posted by bajabusdoc View Post
I have ac only system
use bar switch high low to run headlight
would like ac relay to run aux lights when high beam as 165 watts would melt wire through switch
where and what relay do I need to get since ac only?
You could make a dc relay work by adding a diode and capacitor, but I think you can find an AC relay easy enough online or at a electrical supply, or a auto parts store.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:34 AM   #964
dogsslober
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Heated grips

I have a ricky stator and want to run heated grips off one of the 100watt legs. Do I hook up the grips to the leads in a circuit and not ground them or to the leads then grounded? I already have the other leg running a VRR and a small battery and all lights
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:12 AM   #965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajabusdoc View Post
I have ac only system
use bar switch high low to run headlight
would like ac relay to run aux lights when high beam as 165 watts would melt wire through switch
where and what relay do I need to get since ac only?
Rectify the ac so you get full dc, by means of a small electronic component called Graetz bridge (here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge ). Tiny component, cheap too, and you need a low current one to drive the relay-coil only.
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Old 11-26-2012, 06:19 PM   #966
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Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Rectify the ac so you get full dc, by means of a small electronic component called Graetz bridge (here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge ). Tiny component, cheap too, and you need a low current one to drive the relay-coil only.
This is not entirely correct. First, to get DC from from your stator you'll need what's called a full wave rectifier or bridge rectifier. Second, anything that produces heat draws a lot of current so you will need a high current reg/rect, not a low current component. Third, the coil on a relay will work on AC or DC so long as the relay has a diode across the coil terminels.

If you want schematics for this stuff, PM me. This is what I do for a living.

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Old 11-28-2012, 10:08 AM   #967
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Originally posted this in the main XRR thread and then I found this one. I apologize if this has been covered, but I wasn't able to find it.

Can anyone share their wiring diagram?

My XRR is currently wired for a headlight, tail light, brake light and turn signals. It has a re-wound stator and a mini-battery. Plus, the current harness is a rat's nest of PO's additions and subtractions. Everytime I have to work on something I have to diagnose why something electrical isn't working because something jiggled loose. I would eventually like to add brighter and/or additional headlights and some 12V accessories, as well as a real battery (probably a small Ballistic). I'll probably also add a Trail Tech, but that's its own deal. What are you guys running for wiring harnesses? Are there any good aftermarket harnesses? Also, if there's some issue where I can't run all of the accessories at once (stator/battery limitations), that's totally fine.

Also (semi-unrelated), I used to be able to turn my lights on when the bike wasn't running (on battery power) and now I can't. In between "now" and "then" I rebuilt my whole engine and transmission so my bike wasn't running for a few weeks. At first I assumed the battery had gone weak from sitting, then I started thinking I put it back together wrong. Everything works as it should when it's running, but I get nothing when it's off. I figure if I'm going to gut and re-wire the whole thing this doesn't really matter.

Lastly, the PO told me that it had a re-wound stator. What's the easiest way to confirm that it is re-wound and what it's putting out? Is it easiest to pull it off and visually inspect, or should I measure the output with a mult-meter? If so, how do you do this?

Thanks a lot!!
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:46 AM   #968
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Originally Posted by nick5446 View Post
Lastly, the PO told me that it had a re-wound stator. What's the easiest way to confirm that it is re-wound and what it's putting out?
If they installed a new stator there should be two wires for the pickup, two for the exciter coil, two for one lighting coil and another two for the second lighting coil. At least thats how the ricky stator is I'm not sure about the baja designs stator.

If they wound the stator them selves there may only be two wires for the one lighting coil output for all 10 lighting coil poles. If that's the case the only way to tell for sure would be to open it up and look at what was done.

As for measuring the output I haven't a clue how you'd be able to do that. Certainly not with a multimeter though...

As for the wiring diagram. I've been planning on making a whole new wiring harness based on this. Also look at dennis kirk for electrical connectors, they have a pretty awesome supply.

Edit: By the way the stator in the diagram below should be what you would see from an OEM stator.

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MA$TER_E screwed with this post 11-28-2012 at 10:52 AM
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:52 AM   #969
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Originally Posted by MA$TER_E View Post
If they installed a new stator there should be two wires for the pickup, two for the exciter coil, two for one lighting coil and another two for the second lighting coil. At least thats how the ricky stator is I'm not sure about the baja designs stator.

If they wound the stator them selves there may only be two wires for the one lighting coil output for all 10 lighting coil poles. If that's the case the only way to tell for sure would be to open it up and look at what was done.

As for measuring the output I haven't a clue how you'd be able to do that. Certainly not with a multimeter though...

As for the wiring diagram. I've been planning on making a whole new wiring harness based on this. Also look at dennis kirk for electrical connectors, they have a pretty awesome supply.

Edit: By the way the stator in the diagram below should be what you would see from an OEM stator.

Thanks for the info, that diagram looks good and fairly easy to follow...also pretty close to what I'm planning on doing with mine. Let me know when you make your own so I can learn from your mistakes! Are you not using a high-output stator because you don't need it due to the battery being added?

One big question, how would you measure the output of the stator if not with a meter?
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:42 PM   #970
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Gee thanks! Thats not my diagram though. I found it here somewhere and thought I'd use it as a rough layout for mine.

I am running a high output 200 watt (ricky stator). Ricky stator comes with two lighting coils so you can run one big 200watt output or two 100watt outputs. I plan on running the two 100watt outputs due to the regulators I have not being rated for more than 150watts. Plus I think its nice to have the two independent coils. You'll need a high output stator if you want to run much more than stock. Even on the baja designs kit there is a big "*" that informs you the OEM XR650R stator is barely good enough to run the bike with the kit. So much more than a 35/35watt head lamp and you won't have enough power. And if I understand things correctly you'll exceed the ability of the stator to charge the battery and power your bike and eventually your battery will be dead. <- correct me if thats not right.

I dont know how to measure it directly. The best I've been given was a website that had some formulas for figuring it out but you needed to get some specifics I didn't want to deal with not to mention I'd probably divide by 0 and create a black hole anyway!
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:27 PM   #971
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Originally Posted by XRider View Post
This is not entirely correct. First, to get DC from from your stator you'll need what's called a full wave rectifier or bridge rectifier. Second, anything that produces heat draws a lot of current so you will need a high current reg/rect, not a low current component. Third, the coil on a relay will work on AC or DC so long as the relay has a diode across the coil terminels.

If you want schematics for this stuff, PM me. This is what I do for a living.

XRs FOREVER


1) A half wave rectifier will also produce DC ... so a full wave rectifier is not the only way. May be convenient to use a half wave rectifier if one side of the AC is 'ground'

2) A relay coil does not produce a lot of heat, would consume something less than 2 watts. Considering the other loads would total something like 200 watts, 2 watts would be considered low. All relative. If you were in a power station 200 watts is considered low. Look at the current draw of the relay coil, triple it and go for a rectifier with at least that rating. Around 1 Amp?


3) A diode across the terminals? That in 'English' implys in parallel. This would short circuit one cycle of the AC... probaly blowing the diode. I'd think you would mean in series with the relay coil.

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Old 11-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #972
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Originally Posted by Warin View Post


1) A half wave rectifier will also produce DC ... so a full wave rectifier is not the only way. May be convenient to use a half wave rectifier if one side of the AC is 'ground'

2) A relay coil does not produce a lot of heat, would consume something less than 2 watts. Considering the other loads would total something like 200 watts, 2 watts would be considered low. All relative. If you were in a power station 200 watts is considered low. Look at the current draw of the relay coil, triple it and go for a rectifier with at least that rating. Around 1 Amp?


3) A diode across the terminals? That in 'English' implys in parallel. This would short circuit one cycle of the AC... probaly blowing the diode. I'd think you would mean in series with the relay coil.

Why would you use a half wave rect or ground a leg off the stator. Both of those options will reduce the stator's output approximately 50% since you'd be loosing half of the AC's sine wave.

A 1A rectifier isn't going to last very long with a 100W leg off the stator which can put out around 8A peak. The defacto standard has been the RS rectifier (others will work), RS has a pretty good unit that holds up well to the XRRs output. I've got one running off a 100w leg and it's been working fine for 3 years now.

The BD design above is marginal at best. Their system is expensive and utilizes small guage wiring. If you're serious about riding off road you'll probably have issues with it. Go back in this thread and read how many riders are requesting troubleshooting help with BD harnesses. Compare that to an OEM harness which are pretty much bulletproof. Nothing about setting up the XRR for DS use is difficult, take a look at Honda's XR650L diagram, simple (when you weed out the extra BS) best of all it's proven reliable. Obviously it won't work on the XRR but the design principals will and if one copys the componets like internal crimps and and wire guages they can reproduce that kind of reliability.

Here's a dual output AC/DC diagram that works pretty well.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:03 PM   #973
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Originally Posted by Warin View Post


1) A half wave rectifier will also produce DC ... so a full wave rectifier is not the only way. May be convenient to use a half wave rectifier if one side of the AC is 'ground'

2) A relay coil does not produce a lot of heat, would consume something less than 2 watts. Considering the other loads would total something like 200 watts, 2 watts would be considered low. All relative. If you were in a power station 200 watts is considered low. Look at the current draw of the relay coil, triple it and go for a rectifier with at least that rating. Around 1 Amp?


3) A diode across the terminals? That in 'English' implys in parallel. This would short circuit one cycle of the AC... probaly blowing the diode. I'd think you would mean in series with the relay coil.

Heated grips produce a lot of heat and there for draw a lot of current. The relay coils draws almost nothing. The reg/rect will have to be rated to handle the load from the grip heaters. A diode across the coil treminals of a relay is a time honored solution to make them function on AC or DC current.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:38 PM   #974
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Here's a dual output AC/DC diagram that works pretty well.
Nice wiring diagram. I've pretty much finished my project now and wish I had seen that diagram before I started. I did use a diagram from a 84 XL250 which worked pretty well.


Any one looking to do a professional wiring job should take a look at oem style connectors from Vintage Connections, http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Brian
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:03 AM   #975
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Any one looking to do a professional wiring job should take a look at oem style connectors from Vintage Connections, http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Brian
That is awesome! I've been looking at connectors from Denis Kirk, they have a good selection too. But thanks for that link, saving that one
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