XR650R electricity

[ODSC1]

Originally Posted by MA$TER_E

That is awesome! I've been looking at connectors from Denis Kirk, they have a good selection too. But thanks for that link, saving that one

If you order the bullet connectors go with the 3.5mm ones. They match the OEM size.

Brian

[bill pierce]

This question may have been covered here or in the xrr thread but I couldn't find it so......

Will a h4 60w lamp run fine on regulated AC power? and is the stock ac rectifier beefy enough to handle that wattage? I'm guessing it may be a bit weak at idle.

[XRx]

Originally Posted by bill pierce

This question may have been covered here or in the xrr thread but I couldn't find it so......

Will a h4 60w lamp run fine on regulated AC power? and is the stock ac rectifier beefy enough to handle that wattage? I'm guessing it may be a bit weak at idle.

FYI, a rectifier is an arrangement of diodes that converts AC to DC. So if you are staying stock it is just a regulator, not a rectifier/regulator. Otherwise, I believe the stock regulator is fine for a 60W bulb, but your problem will be the stock stator not putting enough power at idle to keep the light above dim. If you're the type to throw money at a problem, get a rewound stator from baja designs or elsewhere. If you're more the figure out how to do it yourself type of guy for half the cost and ten times the effort, then search for a thread on here called "stators demystified". Very helpful on how to calculate how to rewind your own stator to suit your application. If you want to ignorantly do it yourself effectively, by copying exactly what somebody else did successfully on an xr650r, go to http://www.xr650r.us/stator/ and do what Eric did.

[bill pierce]

Sorry l was on a hurry when I typed that last night. I understand the difference. I also have a rewound high output stator. I just wanted to know how the h1 lamp would do on ac power.

[RideFreak]

Originally Posted by bill pierce

Sorry l was on a hurry when I typed that last night. I understand the difference. I also have a rewound high output stator. I just wanted to know how the h1 lamp would do on ac power.

Yeah, the stock ac reg connected to a 100W stator output will work fine, mine's been wired that way for a few yrs. I'm not sure how it acts if the light is left off, mine was wired to run the HL all the time the bike was started. I ran a 55/60W and it was plenty bright, it worked very well.

[Sean-0]

here ias some work i did on my pig .... my bike runs dc pwr for everything ..stator rewound to 200 and puts all that pwr to the reg/rec of a kwaka 1000 ..then goes to my battery and then pwrs all elecs on the bike ...the charge system is seperate from the ignition so if it fails the bike still runs no mater what







all fused and works great runs gps...12v pwr socket ...led spots ..thermofan...heated grips...plus the normal headlight speedo blinkers horn and so forth

[sintax]

I'm sure i'm going to be spending some time in this thread over the next couple weeks. I'm upgrading my electrical system from your stock XR650r w/ the full DC BD DSK.

So i've read all 66 pages twice now....

There does not seem to be a ton of info on getting a quality Ni-Cad battery pack replacement. Some of the guys have posted locations, people have bashed, and I cant find a clear "good option" I've seen someone online that list the power leads from the pack at 20ga, which is clearly too small.

I'm not thinking i'm very interested in moving to a Li-Ion, or other type of cell that require extra charging methods. I need the bike to supply all the necessary juice.

So does anyone have a company that has made them a good solid pack?

[Sean-0]

the battery in the pics works well very light and 6ah ...great idea on a bike like this easy to find a place to put it ...acpwr to reg/rec and then to batt easy

[sintax]

Should have clarified. Needs to fit under the seat...

[Sean-0]

you could fit that battery under the seat ....move the cdi a bit and there would be room

[mitchn06]

Hope I can get some input. Will this setup work as drawn. Focused primarily on stator/regulator area?

[crypto666]

Originally Posted by ODSC1

If you order the bullet connectors go with the 3.5mm ones. They match the OEM size.

Brian

I use two sizes: red for single connection and blue for making y-harnesses where whire branch.

A new trick I came up with also is to inject the connectors with dielectric silicon grease for waterproofing. Tape and shrink wrap let water in an hold it much of the time.

[thouk]

Mitch,
I think you may have trouble running to regulators off of the same lines of the stator. If you are going to make dc power you might as well as run your headlight off of the dc also. I'm not sure, tony

[crypto666]

Originally Posted by mitchn06

Hope I can get some input. Will this setup work as drawn. Focused primarily on stator/regulator area?

According to what I have read and seen that should work, but I have not used a frame ground on the dc side myself because the ignition uses a frame ground and I don't what to intermix things I don't understand.

It seems like it is shown the same in the service manual. If you haven't noticed, they use generic schematics that show a battery and turn signal on a dc circuit and an ac light all running off the same stator coil. If I am reading it right.

[crypto666]

I know there is at least one other person out there who has had this same experience. So I am posting this for information purposes, but also to see how others have handled it.

I am running two 100w coils.

coil 1 is powering a 100w halogen and a tail light, stock reg.

coil 2 is feeding a 250w tymphanium r/r (ricky stator's) to create a dc circuit to power led turn/brake and 55w HID. I had used 150w trailtechs in the past and they died.

It works great as long as I keep a load on the DC side.

The problem I have is this:

The 25ow r/r requires a battery. If no battery is present the measurements are wacked; it will show 12-14v ac steady and 10.5v dc, dropping to about 8v with increased rpm on the dc outputs.
With a battery present it shows trace ac voltages with a solid 12-14v dc.
With a capacitor instead of a battery it will charge to over 17v dc.


I built my own r/r using a seperate reg and full wave rectifier with the same results.

Aside from causing a great deal of mental anguish over the physics of it all, it works fine as long as there is a battery in the circuit and a load.

However, using LiFe batteries instead of Pb or NiCd, I get similar problems as with a capacitor in that they basically are being over charged if there is no loads on the system (daytime running, no HID light). This will eventually cause a cell to die after long periods of high revs.

My plan now is put a load on the dc circuit when the HID is not running. For now it will be just a resistor using up 10-15w, but I plan to put that load to use, maybe with a fan or disco lights.


BTW, the reason I will not run a dc only system is because my ac has been the only one to never fail.