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Old 03-11-2013, 07:14 PM   #1021
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
No voltage regulator except the rect/reg device in the image. I believe it does some kind of voltage regulation.



Yep, GPS (Garmin 60csx) accept AC or DC power 12V.



No battery...Ok, I'll try to use multimeter and see if the voltage have large flutuation. Tnks
That's honda's non-us dc system, it actually works very well. Europe has no requirment to have the lights stay on after the bike stalls like the US (I think AUS is the same) so they use that small DC rectifier/cap unit instead of a battery. The same unit is used on the street legal XR400s. That sytem is regulated for over voltage with Honda's standard A/C regulator (shown in wiring diagram above) wired into system prior to the DC rectification. That small black box converts (rectifies) the AC to DC and the cap cleans up the power during low output. Not sure of the system's output but I'd think you'd be ok to run some lower power stuff off it along with the bike's stock lighting system.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:01 PM   #1022
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[QUOTE=RideFreak;20923407]That's honda's non-us dc system, it actually works very well. Europe has no requirment to have the lights stay on after the bike stalls like the US (I think AUS is the same) so they use that small DC rectifier/cap unit instead of a battery. The same unit is used on the street legal XR400s. That sytem is regulated for over voltage with Honda's standard A/C regulator (shown in wiring diagram above) wired into system prior to the DC rectification. That small black box converts (rectifies) the AC to DC and the cap cleans up the power during low output. Not sure of the system's output but I'd think you'd be ok to run some lower power stuff off it along with the bike's stock lighting system


RF
Certain the indicator flasher can is supplied from the same source on the Oz versions.
If it can supply 2 x 21W lamps per side (42W approx) should be a handy source for other items.
Use it to supply my TT Vapour and have had no issues.
Would be inclined to have a look at the output on a CRO before I'd want to run my GPS off it (or add a big CAP to help smooth any transients).
Maybe some of the other lads here in Oz have done so already.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:07 PM   #1023
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Incandescent front turns and led rear turn signals.

By my calculations this should work just fine on my all AC system. I broke the incandescent rears off and I'm trying to shave some watts using the stock stator. My 55 watt headlight dims a lot with the use of the turn signals. I also have the wheeling cycle supply led inner brake tail light.

Comments suggestions?

Is it dimming when idle?

And what is the rpm of said stator's rated output?
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:18 PM   #1024
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Incandescent front turns and led rear turn signals.

By my calculations this should work just fine on my all AC system. I broke the incandescent rears off and I'm trying to shave some watts using the stock stator. My 55 watt headlight dims a lot with the use of the turn signals. I also have the wheeling cycle supply led inner brake tail light.

Comments suggestions?
Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Is it dimming when idle?

And what is the rpm of said stator's rated output?
It is the stock stator, I have no idea.

I know it works now, it just dims the headlight alot. by dropping one of the incandescent bulbs it should help a bit.


I think I don't need any LED flashers, or resistors because I also have a regular 21 watt bulb thats pulling a enough current to get the flasher to work?
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:40 AM   #1025
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you could run a small batt of that reg/ then run your gps fan from there it will give much smoother pwr .....
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:35 AM   #1026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post

If it can supply 2 x 21W lamps per side (42W approx) should be a handy source for other items.
I'll check this ;)
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:05 AM   #1027
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post

RF
Certain the indicator flasher can is supplied from the same source on the Oz versions.
If it can supply 2 x 21W lamps per side (42W approx) should be a handy source for other items.
Use it to supply my TT Vapour and have had no issues.
Would be inclined to have a look at the output on a CRO before I'd want to run my GPS off it (or add a big CAP to help smooth any transients).
Maybe some of the other lads here in Oz have done so already.
JM-2008

Like was said earlier, a battery does a better job of conditioning the power.
With a 1.1Ah LiFe battery and a capacitor about the size of the one shown in earlier I still can detect voltage spikes over 16v, with no load on the system. However, I run a secondary switching power supply for gps/phones charging and stuff. With the HID lit the dc system holds a steady 13-13.5V.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:48 AM   #1028
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Like was said earlier, a battery does a better job of conditioning the power.
With a 1.1Ah LiFe battery and a capacitor about the size of the one shown in earlier I still can detect voltage spikes over 16v, with no load on the system. However, I run a secondary switching power supply for gps/phones charging and stuff. With the HID lit the dc system holds a steady 13-13.5V.
And do you know of any small battery like that?

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babuja screwed with this post 03-12-2013 at 11:14 AM
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:54 PM   #1029
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Yeh, the battery in the pic is about the size of mine, but mine is only 4 cell (LiFe 18650 cells 1.1Ah @ 3.3v each). I split it into two packs of two cells each to make it easier to tuck away.

I think you can get away with a NiCd as well. And I think the one in the pic is a 6 cell NiCd.

There are also little tiny Pb batteries too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
And do you know of any small battery like that?

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Old 03-12-2013, 10:04 PM   #1030
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
It is the stock stator, I have no idea.

I know it works now, it just dims the headlight alot. by dropping one of the incandescent bulbs it should help a bit.


I think I don't need any LED flashers, or resistors because I also have a regular 23 watt bulb that is pulling enough current to get the flasher to work?
Ok, so for reference the cheapo Tusk Brand LED turn signals from RMATV will work on AC current. They are incredibly bright and I shaved a good 22 watts off of my operating usage when using the signals. Mind you I still have regular ol incandescent signals on the front. One of the 23 watt bulbs is enough to operate the flasher.

I searched around a lot and couldn't really find conclusive evidence that this would work, but it does.

Now I'm wondering if I can find a LED flasher that will Run on AC? to go full LED turn signals front and rear. that would be bitchin.....
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:42 PM   #1031
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Yeh, the battery in the pic is about the size of mine, but mine is only 4 cell (LiFe 18650 cells 1.1Ah @ 3.3v each). I split it into two packs of two cells each to make it easier to tuck away.

I think you can get away with a NiCd as well. And I think the one in the pic is a 6 cell NiCd.

There are also little tiny Pb batteries too.

The one in the pic is the default BD battery. It comes as 10 x AA nicads (700 mah)

I ordered up one from a company online that should be 10 x AA nicad (1200 mah)

If it passes the test, i'll post up where i got it.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:49 AM   #1032
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
The one in the pic is the default BD battery. It comes as 10 x AA nicads (700 mah)

I ordered up one from a company online that should be 10 x AA nicad (1200 mah)

If it passes the test, i'll post up where i got it.

Cool, yeh I bought a NiCd also, but it was so freakin huge (c cells) and heavy I never used it except for testing.

And yeh, 10 NiCd cells would be 12v, not 6 (Pb).
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:57 AM   #1033
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
Ok, so for reference the cheapo Tusk Brand LED turn signals from RMATV will work on AC current. They are incredibly bright and I shaved a good 22 watts off of my operating usage when using the signals. Mind you I still have regular ol incandescent signals on the front. One of the 23 watt bulbs is enough to operate the flasher.

I searched around a lot and couldn't really find conclusive evidence that this would work, but it does.

Now I'm wondering if I can find a LED flasher that will Run on AC? to go full LED turn signals front and rear. that would be bitchin.....

All LED lights will work on AC, and they will also act as a half wave rectifier at the same time.
SO if it is bright on AC, it should be really bright with full-wave rectified DC.

I used the led flasher sold by http://www.radiantz.com/ and it has worked well. Even with unbuffered dc they work well. It has been abused with over voltage and ac voltage and still works after 5+ years.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:55 PM   #1034
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
All LED lights will work on AC, and they will also act as a half wave rectifier at the same time.
SO if it is bright on AC, it should be really bright with full-wave rectified DC.

I used the led flasher sold by http://www.radiantz.com/ and it has worked well. Even with unbuffered dc they work well. It has been abused with over voltage and ac voltage and still works after 5+ years.
This guy here?

http://www.radiantz.com/index1.html?c15.html&1
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:26 PM   #1035
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Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
All LED lights will work on AC, and they will also act as a half wave rectifier at the same time.
SO if it is bright on AC, it should be really bright with full-wave rectified DC.

I used the led flasher sold by http://www.radiantz.com/ and it has worked well. Even with unbuffered dc they work well. It has been abused with over voltage and ac voltage and still works after 5+ years.

Sorry to chime in on this but I called baja designs and for the squadron he said I HAVE to convert to DC for it to work. Is he bs and just wants me to purchase more stuff from them?
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