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Old 07-12-2009, 05:19 AM   #91
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunslinger1
Background:...................I put a 100 watt 8" race light on my XRR along with 200 watt stator, capacitor (no battery) and a recomended heavy duty voltage regulator per the boys at Ricky Stator...its off an ATV.

Quote:
PROBLEM:.............my voltage is crazy bouncing around.......ie. 14.4 to 11.3 to 12 to 7.8.then goes back up with crazy sequences.........when it hits 7.8 my gps says it has lost its power source...so every few seconds it will come up lost power source.........that is the only reason I knew there was something going on......I then set a data field to voltage and started watching it on the gps.........it seemed to be worse when I had my headlight on........but it still did it when off............It make NO DIFFERENCE what my RPMs are.........I have had 14 volts at idle and then 7.8 show up at speed. When you turn the bike off.......no power....no battery.....it will read 7.8.

I need to fix this as I have a Big Trip coming up...

Let me know what you think.........

Tim



I have ruled out V. Reg......I put a new one on and did not fix my problem, I have ruled out battery (capacitor) as I have switched them out and nothing changes............I have found out if I ground the case of the V. Reg ( is sits on plastic) my volts will become steady and correct..........If I flip my 8" race light on my voltage drops way down and the light is very dim......................
Let me know what you.

Thanks,
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:54 AM   #92
Neonasty
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It sounds like you have an issue with a floating ground line. Check that there arn't any broken ground wires. Check that they all have a clean (paint and crap free) connection to the frame.

Disconnect the headlight to eliminate this as an issue. Take a measurement, then re connect it and do it again.

I know that when Ive had strange readings like this (in a part life as an elec. tech) it usually could be traced back to a faulty earth connection.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:18 AM   #93
XRider
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Gunslinger,
Do you have the stator connected for single output or are you running 100w AC and 100w DC? If you've got an AC/DC system it sounds like you need to float the AC ground. In other words you need to isolate the AC ground from the frame ground.
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:30 AM   #94
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
Gunslinger,
Do you have the stator connected for single output or are you running 100w AC and 100w DC? If you've got an AC/DC system it sounds like you need to float the AC ground. In other words you need to isolate the AC ground from the frame ground.

I am running single 200 Watt........
2 greens from the stator tied together
2 whites from stator tied together........each hooked to a yellow wire from the H. Duty Rec/VR.

4 wire V. Reg
Black to neg on battery/capacitor........right now I have the batter tied in
Red to what I am powering on the bike..big head light, taillights, and heated grips.

The ground that comes back from the headlight is grounded to the frame......

That's it.......

recap........case ground the V. Reg...there is a load there as she arcs when I do this....even volts...no light
take the ground off the case.......light is bright and voltage is all over the place...

Thanks for the help fellows
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Old 07-12-2009, 07:23 PM   #95
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OK so you're running a single output DC system. The black wire from the reg/rect should have a ring lug crimped on it and be connected to the frame. The (-)black wire from the battery should have a ring lug also and needs to be attached to the frame using the same bolt as the reg/rect black wire. Take the cap out for now. Is the stock AC regulator still connected to the harness? I'm sure the stator wires no longer go to it but are the other 2 wires still plugged into it? If it is then unplug it. Also, with the reg/rect disconnected check for continuity between the red wire and the case. In fact check for continuity between all 4 wires and the case. Post back with what you find and we'll go from there.
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:00 PM   #96
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
OK so you're running a single output DC system.Yes The black wire from the reg/rect should have a ring lug crimped on it..... and be connected to the frame. The (-)black wire from the battery should have a ring lug also and needs to be attached to the frame using the same bolt as the reg/rect black wire.OK Take the cap out for now.OK Is the stock AC regulator still connected to the harness? NO I'm sure the stator wires no longer go to it but are the other 2 wires still plugged into it? NO If it is then unplug it. Also, with the reg/rect disconnected check for continuity between the red wire and the case..OK In fact check for continuity between all 4 wires and the case. Post back with what you find and we'll go from there.
......Great
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:28 AM   #97
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I just thought of something that could cause the symptoms you describe. Although I'm still interested in knowing if any of the reg/rect wires are shorted to the case. After you check that remove the flasher unit for the blinkers and see if the problem continues. I think you have a power to ground short somewhere, of course finding it is the trick. I would take your gps out of the circuit for now so that it doesn't get hosed from all the power spikes. Also, is the 100w light blowing (10A) fuses?
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Old 07-13-2009, 04:09 AM   #98
ThumperDRZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
I just thought of something that could cause the symptoms you describe. Although I'm still interested in knowing if any of the reg/rect wires are shorted to the case. After you check that remove the flasher unit for the blinkers and see if the problem continues. I think you have a power to ground short somewhere, of course finding it is the trick. I would take your gps out of the circuit for now so that it doesn't get hosed from all the power spikes. Also, is the 100w light blowing (10A) fuses?
Hey XRider - see post 91 at top of page. That question pertains to Gunslinger1's stator....I'm thinking continuity to ground from any stator wire is a bad thing. It is on the DRZ. I just went through it with mine. He has one green and one white wire showing a short to ground with an ohm meter.
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Old 07-13-2009, 04:44 AM   #99
Gunslinger1
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
I just thought of something that could cause the symptoms you describe. Although I'm still interested in knowing if any of the reg/rect wires are shorted to the case. After you check that remove the flasher unit for the blinkers and see if the problem continues. I think you have a power to ground short somewhere, of course finding it is the trick. I would take your gps out of the circuit for now so that it doesn't get hosed from all the power spikes. Also, is the 100w light blowing (10A) fuses?
NO flasher unit on the bike and no fuses blowing.

I only power
Headlight
tail light
heated grips
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:38 AM   #100
ThumperDRZ
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I just called Ricky Stator- You are not supposed to have continuity to ground. Remember - one white wire and one green are shorted to ground. He said to check the wire bundle where it comes out of the case. You probably have a pinched wire.

This is good news as long as your stator isn't fried.
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Old 07-13-2009, 07:49 PM   #101
Gunslinger1
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Got It

Thanks everyone......

XRider you were right on with where you were going. I had a case ground in the stator. The small L shaped pc that holds the stator harness againts the case and out of the way was touching one of the poles. ThumperDRZ found the problem checking continuity as 2 of the 4 stator wires were not open.........they must all be open.

XRider.....did I damage my stator, rec/v.reg having this case ground. I rode about 200 miles knowing I had a problem and maybe 500 since I put the new stator in.

Also......would you leave the battery in or go back to the capacitor?

Thanks,
Gunslinger1
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Old 07-13-2009, 10:35 PM   #102
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Glad you found the issue. Wether or not the stator is fried I'd just plug it in and find out. What will kill the stator is if it got hot enough to break down the varnish that insolates the windings. The reg/rect is not as tough and it would be easy for me to believe that it's toast. You know all electrical parts have magic smoke inside and if you let that smoke out, they don't work anymore.

The choice of a battery or a cap. For your aplication, since you don't have blinkers that you want to still blink at idle, I'd go with the cap. Mostly because it's not as heavy.

Good catch finding the short.
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Old 08-02-2009, 03:54 PM   #103
Purcell69
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Has anyone here hooked up an Acewell digital dash to the Baja Designs dual sport kit on their XRR? I am still using the stock stator and the full DSK with the BD battery pack. The Acewell runs off 12v DC and needs to be connected to the battery with switched and non-switched power. It also has connections for the high beam indicator and the turn sigal indicators.

-Joe
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:09 PM   #104
Purcell69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69
Has anyone here hooked up an Acewell digital dash to the Baja Designs dual sport kit on their XRR? I am still using the stock stator and the full DSK with the BD battery pack. The Acewell runs off 12v DC and needs to be connected to the battery with switched and non-switched power. It also has connections for the high beam indicator and the turn sigal indicators.

-Joe
Well I got it sorted out. The only issue I found that does not make sense is the speedometer/odometer was WAY off using the suggested settings in the instruction pamphlet. The directions called for a circumfrence of 1676mm for a 21" front tire. With that setting, it showed my speed putting around the yard to be over 50 mph! I sorta split the difference to a 840mm setting and the speed seems to be a lot closer. Any clues as to what may cause this?

-Joe
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:16 PM   #105
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I'm reading 7 pages of posts to find out if this is 205 or not. So here goes anyway.
I was researching rewinding stators, I need to make my TT600 12v and found this last night and then I see this thread tonight.

Enjoy:

http://www.xr650r.us/stator/
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