The Yamaha TW200 Thread...

[kubiak]

[QUOTE=Lizrdbrth;20441063]Tons of options for longer arms will probably follow. Mine is the alloy version from an XT600.

You gotta be careful with the length. The longer it is the more pedal travel it takes to operate it. There'a limit.:

[/QUOTE
yea i found out about the limit thing on ratios with the brake pedal, i drilled and moved the pull socket closer to the pivot point and had great power but it didnt leave enough travel for my brake pedal. so i went back to the original location on my pedal. now experimenting with the other end. i think i will leave the dt250 arm back there but now got to upgrade the brake drum like you or something so my brakes dont overheat so quickly. do you have trouble with brake fade on the lighter tw? i figure im having a little more trouble because my bike weighs about 350lbs with tank empty so about 380 full of fuel.

[Lizrdbrth]

Lol. I didn't want to appear to be a buzzkiller by pointing it out at the time but I kinda figured you'd have some brake issues. You've pulled of a really nice swap. I've seen a couple others but only when they were up for sale. I assume the brakes were one of the reasons they may not have worked as well as expected. Nice to see someone with some follow through and commitment building a monster like yours..

Yes, the brake is already a bit undersized for the TW. I cover and use both brakes no matter what I'm riding, but with so much rubber on the ground you'll use it harder and more often than you would on something comparable like an XT with the same sized brake. I don't think fade even enters into it on our little bikes, it's more like the fact that not enough happens quite quickly enough when you really need it. .

Offroad is where I'll see the most benefit. When you finally have an adequate brake back there you may find that your riding style changes a bit in order to get the most out of the fat tire. Particularly in my case with the greater traction of the ATV tire you tend to ride the bike with the back brake. Get out of shape, tap the back brake and the bike will stand up, stretch out straight and go on with life. You can use the rear like a sea anchor on really nasty downhills, too. If you can control your speed you'll never lose traction under engine braking like skinny tire will so all you gotta concern yourself with is steering. It's like a vacation once you learn it.

The 130 was standard on much faster and heavier Yamahas , so maybe it will be enough for your conversion. It's bound to be a major improvement, but if you trust my judgement and can can afford the luxury of waiting til I'm finished with this I probably have enough experience to guesstimate how much or if you should just bypass it and go bigger.

I didn't go disc because we'd need something on the order of a 200mm disc to equal a 130 drum and there is all this parts interchangability between models. Less weight, no caliper mounts to fabricate, master cylinder and linkage to work out, etc. Mostly eyeball engineering.

[kubiak]

Originally Posted by Lizrdbrth

Lol. I didn't want to appear to be a buzzkiller by pointing it out at the time but I kinda figured you'd have some brake issues. You've pulled of a really nice swap. I've seen a couple others but only when they were up for sale. I assume the brakes were one of the reasons they may not have worked as well as expected. Nice to see someone with some follow through and commitment building a monster like yours..

Yes, the brake is already a bit undersized for the TW. I cover and use both brakes no matter what I'm riding, but with so much rubber on the ground you'll use it harder and more often than you would on something comparable like an XT with the same sized brake. I don't think fade even enters into it on our little bikes, it's more like the fact that not enough happens quite quickly enough when you really need it. .

Offroad is where I'll see the most benefit. When you finally have an adequate brake back there you may find that your riding style changes a bit in order to get the most out of the fat tire. Particularly in my case with the greater traction of the ATV tire you tend to ride the bike with the back brake. Get out of shape, tap the back brake and the bike will stand up, stretch out straight and go on with life. You can use the rear like a sea anchor on really nasty downhills, too. If you can control your speed you'll never lose traction under engine braking like skinny tire will so all you gotta concern yourself with is steering. It's like a vacation once you learn it.

The 130 was standard on much faster and heavier Yamahas , so maybe it will be enough for your conversion. It's bound to be a major improvement, but if you trust my judgement and can can afford the luxury of waiting til I'm finished with this I probably have enough experience to guesstimate how much or if you should just bypass it and go bigger.

I didn't go disc because we'd need something on the order of a 200mm disc to equal a 130 drum and there is all this parts interchangability between models. Less weight, no caliper mounts to fabricate, master cylinder and linkage to work out, etc. Mostly eyeball engineering.

im loving the simplicity of the drum brake for sure and the pads and parts are dirt cheap! im following your project and see we think alike. always room for improvement on our projects!

[Turkeycreek]

I'll skip the long and boring story about the '97 I bought last April but might actually get to see for the 1st time this afternoon.

The bike will be arriving without the ignition key. Incredibly, the key has fallen through a small tear in time and space that opened momentarily in an ordinary desk drawer and it is now in an alternate universe, trapped there forever. At least according to my son who had the key last.

A new OEM cylinder and switch is about $160. Not going to happen. Need a better option. If the cylinder has a number stamped on it, I have been told I can order the key. What after market/used options out there? there is an Emgo replacement but not for this model. Is there a cross reference list of Yamaha models that use the same assembly.

Alternatively, I could put a toggle switch in its place so I could start it and put a secret kill switch somewhere under a body panel. Other ideas?

[Solomoriah]

According to the Yamaha microfiche, the part number for the "Main Switch Steering Lock" is 2GK-82501-01-00. I found this on the boats.net OEM parts finder; clicking the link on the part number tells me that the same unit is used on the XT350 from 1987 to 2000; that appears to be the only other model using that part. Since it is the steering lock as well as being the ignition, that's not surprising to me.

[Turkeycreek]

Thanks Solomoriah. I'm new to the TW so the link will be really helpful. I've found a few possible sources.

[Solomoriah]

Any time you want to verify which bike models use which part, you can't beat boats.net's online service. Of course, if you do turn around and buy the OEM part, it's only fair to order from them.

Doesn't hurt that they have competitive prices. When I rejetted my carb, I got the parts from them.

[assquatch20]

Originally Posted by Turkeycreek

Alternatively, I could put a toggle switch in its place so I could start it and put a secret kill switch somewhere under a body panel. Other ideas?

If you can't find a used one and won't buy new, making your own switch work is cheap and easy. You can find other ignition switches that will work fine, but you'll probably lose the steering lock, and getting it to fit in place is the pain of it.

I'm just guessing, but old Honda tumblers were pretty compact and probably go cheap on eBay. I'd see if they use the same amount of wires and give one a try, if you're wanting an actual keyed ignition. I'd lean towards some sturdy toggle switches with a hidden kill. There's plenty of inline kill switches for bikes out there. Or get yourself a racing switch with a lanyard if you wanna be cool.

And yeah, a new key is probably smartest.

[JagLite]

Originally Posted by Turkeycreek

I'll skip the long and boring story about the '97 I bought last April but might actually get to see for the 1st time this afternoon.

The bike will be arriving without the ignition key. Incredibly, the key has fallen through a small tear in time and space that opened momentarily in an ordinary desk drawer and it is now in an alternate universe, trapped there forever. At least according to my son who had the key last.

A new OEM cylinder and switch is about $160. Not going to happen. Need a better option. If the cylinder has a number stamped on it, I have been told I can order the key. What after market/used options out there? there is an Emgo replacement but not for this model. Is there a cross reference list of Yamaha models that use the same assembly.

Alternatively, I could put a toggle switch in its place so I could start it and put a secret kill switch somewhere under a body panel. Other ideas?

I took the info on the ignition switch and my title (for proof of ownership and the VIN) to the local Yamaha shop and they ordered a new key for me.

Works perfect and was less $ than having a locksmith cut a new key.

[Turkeycreek]

Thanks to all. I did find an inexpensive Emgo generic lock at MSS. It looks like it will do the trick for under $15. I'll have to work out a mount for it but that won't be too hard.

I also found an XT350 replica lock on e-bay but t has a different PN. I queried the seller but nothing back yet

I did call my local dealer - a mere 140 miles away - and they told me that they could not get a key based on the VIN, I would need the number off the cylinder, Mine has no number. I might try the dealer in Hermosillo. Mexicans are more flexible some times.

Anyone know if the gas cap lock is normally keyed the same as the ignition on a '97? That may point me towards having a key made instead of having to replace the cap as well.

[Falcon86]

Anyone have an extra set of plastics they'd like to sell?

Also, the rectangle cluster that contains the neutral light and other gauges?

PM me if you have either that you'd like to sell, thanks gents!

[Lizrdbrth]

Originally Posted by Turkeycreek

Thanks to all. I did find an inexpensive Emgo generic lock at MSS. It looks like it will do the trick for under $15. I'll have to work out a mount for it but that won't be too hard.

I also found an XT350 replica lock on e-bay but t has a different PN. I queried the seller but nothing back yet

I did call my local dealer - a mere 140 miles away - and they told me that they could not get a key based on the VIN, I would need the number off the cylinder, Mine has no number. I might try the dealer in Hermosillo. Mexicans are more flexible some times.

Anyone know if the gas cap lock is normally keyed the same as the ignition on a '97? That may point me towards having a key made instead of having to replace the cap as well.

The ignition, gas cap and helmet lock are keyed the same. The ignition switch is easily removed, but the gas cap and helmet locks can be considerably less so. Having a locksmith make new keys off the ignition switch will likely work out cheapest in the long run if you have no luck ordering by VIN.

[FootDoc]

Getting a nail in you tire aways sucks, But after getting a nail in my Maxxis im ready to .
This thing was such a PITA to mount, now I have to do it again.
I should have taken a picture of the railroad spike I pulled outta the damn thing.
Sorry, just had to bitch and moan a little....Ill wash the sand out of my vagina while Im waiting for my new tube to arrive.

[frog13]

No need to apologize Doc....WE understand!.

[truthiness]

Hey all. I just recently picked up a pair of banger Tdubs from a fellow inmate here. They're pretty rough and need some work, but I can't wait to ride one of these things! This one is primarily a parts bike


This other one was a runner but sat outside for quite a while. I'm hoping a quick carb clean will get it to at least start up again.

I'm only a couple years into riding and I've never done dirt, so I'm really anxious to learn.