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Old 03-17-2009, 08:54 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robhar54
Any other differences? (Like the rubber protection around it, maybe?)

Rob in Seattle
Yes, the rubber protection extends up to about 1 1/2" from the top end of the GS cable, but to only 12" from the top of the ST cable. I doubt that would be an issue, though. Certainly worth a look.

So, yer screwed on the throttle cable and I'm screwed on the clutch cable. The other thing to look at is the wiring from the switches. It looks pretty tight on the wiring running down to the ign sw on my bike.

I'd be interested to hear what Spiegler has to say about the brake pipe ends.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:15 PM   #32
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17" ?

Rob, I was playing around with bar rotation and for the hell of it measured the current brake line length while I was in there. Granted, my method was a little "shade tree-esque" using a piece of safety wire bent up and held against the brake line, but I still came up with about 17" c/c, which should be +/- 1/4". I'm curious as to where you came up with the figure of 17" being 3" longer than stock. Or did I mis-read your post?
Also, if I had to guess, I'd say the little nib is a fitting that'd turn out to be common with several models. The "nibbed" banjo bolt fittings I've seen usually had some type of housing, and the nib kept the banjo bolt from rotating into the housing when you snugged it down. But that's only a guess. It'll be interesting to see what Spiegler has to say.

Jeff
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettrey1
Rob, I was playing around with bar rotation and for the hell of it measured the current brake line length while I was in there. Granted, my method was a little "shade tree-esque" using a piece of safety wire bent up and held against the brake line, but I still came up with about 17" c/c, which should be +/- 1/4". I'm curious as to where you came up with the figure of 17" being 3" longer than stock. Or did I mis-read your post?
Also, if I had to guess, I'd say the little nib is a fitting that'd turn out to be common with several models. The "nibbed" banjo bolt fittings I've seen usually had some type of housing, and the nib kept the banjo bolt from rotating into the housing when you snugged it down. But that's only a guess. It'll be interesting to see what Spiegler has to say.

Jeff
Hmmm, interesting, and thanks. I got that figure from the guys at the shop. I best check it myself! I did test fit the Rox Risers yesterday, and lock to lock no issues with the throttle with the risers rotated from straight "up" (in line with the angle of the forks) to rotated forward, so that's a huge relief. I did not check it with the risers rotated back (toward the rider, beyond the angle of the forks.) It appears I won't need to change clutch or throttle cables for where I want them. The brake line definitely will need to be longer than stock. More later tonight...

Rob in Seattle
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Old 03-23-2009, 09:57 PM   #34
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I've seen on some custom bikes where guys had used a neat idea for a brake line. You basically buy whatever length of hose you need, comes in steel braided or rubber coated or whatever, and the individual ends you want. The 2 screw together with some sort of compresion fittings, perhaps even a flare and they look really good. If I think to ask next time I talk to a pal, I'll find out where they come. May be the easier route...
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:18 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettrey1
Rob, I was playing around with bar rotation and for the hell of it measured the current brake line length while I was in there. Granted, my method was a little "shade tree-esque" using a piece of safety wire bent up and held against the brake line, but I still came up with about 17" c/c, which should be +/- 1/4". I'm curious as to where you came up with the figure of 17" being 3" longer than stock. Or did I mis-read your post?
Hey Jeff,

I measured the upper brake line using the same technique tonight, and mine is 15.25" center to center. I wonder if this is something that has varied in the production of the bike. At that 15.25" length I could just get the bars to sit in the Rox Pivoting Risers, but the line was very tight. I also took the Rox Pro-Offset risers I had on there off, to see what stock arch of the line looked like again. I'm going to order up a 17.5" c-to-c line from Spiegler and be done with it. My fiendish plan is to eventually install an Emig Racing top triple clamp and Revolution II damper, which I expect will be close to the same height.



I want to get the position exactly right with the pivoting risers before I order that up. (He hasn't done one for the F800GS yet.)

Rob in Seattle
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Old 03-24-2009, 12:05 PM   #36
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I installed the ROX risers (shown by OP) on my wife's F650GS, brake line barely makes it, the clutch cable does not. Had to reroute the clutch cable behind the triple tree, good to go.

Be sure and check full lock to right and see if the clutch is pulled in (watch the clutch lever at the crankcase).
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Old 03-24-2009, 12:20 PM   #37
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A Mystery

I don't know Rob; I think I read somewhere, maybe a competing F800 Forum, that bikes produced at different times may have slightly different parts. Possible, I guess. I'm going to go the same route as you and just order up the line in a length I know will work. What banjo bolts are you using, and did you resolve the "nib" question? Thanks.

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Old 04-04-2009, 09:05 AM   #38
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Rob, did you get that brake line yet?
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:18 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettrey1
Rob, did you get that brake line yet?
Should be arriving early next week. I went with a 17.5" length. Also ordered a F800ST clutch cable, and picked up the TT fender riser kit, which includes a longer lower brake line. Figured since they'd have to bleed the brake lines might as well do that at the same time. I'm not comfortable doing the ABS brake stuff myself, so I've got an appointment at South Sound this coming Friday to have all that installed. I'm afraid it could well be a very expensive installation (in terms of labor cost), so I sure hope it all fits, and fits me well.

Pics and report will follow.

Rob in Seattle
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Old 04-04-2009, 02:54 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jettrey1
What banjo bolts are you using, and did you resolve the "nib" question?
I didn't answer your question... Here's the request I put in:





Type: ???? We want flexible, not rigid.
Length 'A', center to center of banjo fitting hole: 17.5"
Distance L1: tight to banjo fitting -- some type of additional protective hose
Length 'U', length of rubber casing: ~9.5" See stock line.
Brake line color: Black
Banjo fitting color: Titanium
F1 (top): Type 022, lateral left 20 + 20 bend Please confirm. Looking down from above the bar, the fitting ought to bend to the RIGHT, and DOWN. I THINK this means, if the fitting can be installed upside down, it ought to be this one, the 022.



F2: The bottom fitting I went with the Type 019, 90 degree bend, and decided not to worry about the nib.



Rob in Seattle
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:32 AM   #41
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hey, rob. I have had the adjustable rox riser on my F8GS for a couple of thousand miles now. I had Motion Pro make me some clutch cables. Wish I had known about the S/ST lines, but the MP price was only $40+shipping, so that's a bit of a wash. I had to place the riser where it would work for the brake line, so now I'm looking to lengthen it.

I am wondering if there is a benefit to Speigler over the Galfer lines that CycleBrakes sells: http://cyclebrakes.com/ Also, what is the cost of the Speigler line for comparison?
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:29 AM   #42
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Thanks Rob. I'm getting the order in this week. BTW, what was your final choice for risers? Seems this thread has wandered a bit.

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Old 04-13-2009, 12:24 AM   #43
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Laugh

OK, here are a couple photos of my Rox Pivoting Riser install...







See a couple posts back for the specs of the brake line I ordered. I haven't measured the brake line to see if it matches the length I ordered (17.5" center to center of fittings). It does seem a tad long, but not by much. I will edit this post once I measure. [And here is the edit: The cable is 18" center to center, so it is indeed a bit longer than I spec'd. 17.5" would have been perfect. This is, as I said, a bit long.) As was suggested, I used the F800ST clutch line, which is 3" longer than the F800GS's.

I had a chance to ride my bike with the new risers a bit this weekend, and the setup is superb for me. (6'-2" tall, 34" inseam, Rally seat, Pivot Pegz.) Perfect position for standing up, and much better sitting down than I thought it would be. Better than stock, in fact. I was afraid I'd be up in ape-hanger territory with these, but it is surprisingly comfortable.

It had better be. The whole shebang cost in the neighborhood of $635, including the risers themselves, custom brake line, new clutch line, labor to install them and then bleed the brake lines. I had the TT fender riser kit installed at the same time, to (ahem) economize on brake bleeding charges. And got the TKC-80s put on. It was a very spendy day at the shop, but I have to say, it all seems worth it.

PS: I'm changing the SPOT to attach it to myself rather than the bike.

Rob in Seattle
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robhar54 screwed with this post 05-16-2009 at 12:09 PM
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:55 AM   #44
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Looks great, Rob. I'm going to try to do the bleeding myself. Back in my F650 days there was a good post on the Chain Gang regarding ABS bleeding. I haven't been able to find any definitive posts here, though. Anybody know of any? I'm thinking just grab my Mighty Mite and dive in.

Jeff
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Old 05-16-2009, 09:43 AM   #45
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Got my risers in the mail a couple of days ago. I did a test fit yesterday and I'm excited. Perfect height for the most part.
The ST cable was ordered for $40, and the brake hose will run $30 and made while I wait. I'm going to have to to do the bleeding myself, and that's the part I'm not looking forward to. The throttle didn't look to be a problem.
Hopefully will get this done next week/weekend. It depends on the clutch cable.
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