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Old 05-16-2009, 10:43 AM   #46
Camel ADV
aka Oso Blanco
 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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S/ST Clutch cable

Justa question for anyone that is using the ST clutch cable... how did you find adjusting it? The cable assembly was long enough but the actual cable inside the sheath seemed a bit short. Normally you have an upper and lower jam nut for adjusting clutch free play but I had to remove the upper nut and let the sheath bottom out on the bracket to get enough slack in the clutch lever, (clear as mud right? I'll post a pic). Anyone else have the same issue?
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:12 PM   #47
johngil
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The clutch cable came in today, so I pulled the brake line off and had a new one made. $33 w/ 4 copper crush washers. The clutch cable was in fact $40 plus tax. The risers were $85 shipped from Happy-Trail.
What a difference!
As stated, there isn't much room for adjustment w/ the ST cable. It works, but just barely.
W/ the lowered pegs and the bar risers, I can't believe it's the same bike. Money well spent for me.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:21 PM   #48
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The 800 ST cable doesn't adjust out much. It works.





I had the brake hose made 3" longer. I think 2.5" would work, but 3" is fine w/ a little to spare.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:07 AM   #49
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Just installed the 2" version

Last night I installed the 2" version of the Rox adjustable risers. I don't think they are on the website yet. Installation was a breeze and the risers make the bike much more comfy. Even the seat in more comfy as I can sit with more of the meaty part of my ass where it belongs as James Renazco mentioned in another post. I rerouted the clutch cable out of the holder and to the outside of the fork tube and there is now plenty of slack. Plenty of slack in the wiring as well without moving it. The brake line is a bit taught at full lock but I can still move it if I grasp it with my thumb and fore finger so it's not too tight to be in danger of damage. I have the non-abs model and it looks like I could modify the plastic piece between the fork tubes and reroute the line if I wanted to go back more with the bars. The risers look like they will contact the vertical part of the key guard if I bring them back much more but that piece looks like it could be removed without having to remove the entire cover. A few images below and more can be seen HERE
#1

#2

#3

#4
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:25 AM   #50
Dust Buster
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Question What pegs

Quote:
Originally Posted by johngil
W/ the lowered pegs and the bar risers, I can't believe it's the same bike. Money well spent for me.
What pegs are you using and how much do they lower than stock pegs?
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Old 06-05-2009, 04:22 AM   #51
TheCowboy
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I have over 12,000 miles on my F8GS. My elbows are killing me. Will the Risers fix this problem? I feel a little stretched out. They don't hurt when I ride my DR650 so I am assuming it is my riding position on the 800? I'm kinda new at this riding motorsickles thing...

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Old 06-05-2009, 06:13 AM   #52
David_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboy2
I have over 12,000 miles on my F8GS. My elbows are killing me. Will the Risers fix this problem? I feel a little stretched out. They don't hurt when I ride my DR650 so I am assuming it is my riding position on the 800? I'm kinda new at this riding motorsickles thing...

Cowboy2
I would think they would. The 2" ones I installed are sweet and really brought the bars back. I was getting a bit of shoulder pain from being stretched out but not with the risers installed. There is almost unlimited adjustment with them, you can bring them back, forward, or just up. they do come up when forward or back but not as much as if they are strait up of course. Pretty good bang for the buck I think considering the amount of adjustment they allow compared to just plain risers. I don't know if the 2" ones are on the site yet or not but if not call and talk to Ryan and he'll hook you up. Usual disclaimer, no affiliation yadayada just happy with the product.

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Old 06-05-2009, 06:46 AM   #53
johngil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dust Buster
What pegs are you using and how much do they lower than stock pegs?
http://www.promotobillet.com/catalog...0edfb3dbf6d593
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:03 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngil
I'm also curious how much lower and also are they forward or rearward at all from the stock location?
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:29 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David_S
I rerouted the clutch cable out of the holder and to the outside of the fork tube and there is now plenty of slack.
That's the exact same setup I'd like to do on mine. Any pics showing how the clutch cable is re-routed would be appreciated.

Something else that I haven't seen mentioned, and that is dropping the fork legs out of the triple clamp and moving the cables and hoses in between the fork leg and the steering column, and I think that would solve the issue of tight cables, but it's a bit of a big job.

A bunch of 1200GS guys did this when installing risers on their bikes. I did it on mine, but dropping the fork leg on the 1200 is a 5 minute job since you only have to release the top portion of the tube.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:52 AM   #56
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You can kind of see it in this image but it's a bit dark. All I did was disconnect the cable at the lever end, open the two clips that attach it and the wiring together, take the cable out of the holder, route it to the outside of the fork tube, reattach it to the lever and reinstall one clip securing it and the harness together. It has more slack than is needed that way as does the wiring and throttle cables. I see no reason to drop a fork tube unless you just don't have anything better to do with your time.

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Old 06-05-2009, 11:17 AM   #57
johngil
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I think maybe some un-necessary worrying is happening here.
A longer brake line is very easy w/ or w/o ABS.
I have the stock line and a source for quality custom hydraulic lines right here in the big city. If it is a deal breaker for anyone because of the brake line , and you don't have a source for a custom then let me know. Maybe I can help.

I'll be sorry I offered that...
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:05 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngil
I think maybe some un-necessary worrying is happening here.
A longer brake line is very easy w/ or w/o ABS.
I have the stock line and a source for quality custom hydraulic lines right here in the big city. If it is a deal breaker for anyone because of the brake line , and you don't have a source for a custom then let me know. Maybe I can help.

I'll be sorry I offered that...
Non abs didn't really need a longer line for me but it may be a complicated line. It appears to be one line from the master down to the first block which bolts near the left fork tube. Then it goes down and over the the right fork tube with another block, then over to the left caliper with another block then it splits and goes back to the right caliper. All the blocks appear to be part of the line until it reaches the left caliper then it has a banjo fitting.
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:38 PM   #59
johngil
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You would only be replacing one line. Bleeding was a piece of cake. I'm used to KTM's. That's a different story.
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Old 06-09-2009, 03:51 AM   #60
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I just want a litte clarification here if possible. The line that is being replaced is it on an ABS bike? If so it probably has a banjo fitting in it maybe around the bottom of the triple tree? The non ABS models I'm afraid are going to be hard to source a line due to it's one piece construction and routing unless you want to get one long line and route it strait to the left caliper. Here is the stock non abs line.

It leaves the MC


Then goes to a block bolted to the left fork tube



Then over to the right fork tube


Then over to the left caliper where the one and only banjo fitting is
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