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Old 04-28-2010, 10:40 PM   #91
moe.ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebrabaek
No worries... It is either the stock seat giving you e "wedge" or the bars being too short. The stock seat has a slope forward that methodically sends the rider forward......Most people over 5'8" need the 20mm riser at a minimum.


Erling
Thanks for the replay Erling, I should have mentioned I replaced the stock seat with a Sargent, same issue though. I am right around 5'9"ish so I guess I qualify.
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:42 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge A. Storms
Thanks for the replay Erling, I should have mentioned I replaced the stock seat with a Sargent, same issue though. I am right around 5'9"ish so I guess I qualify.

Try loosening the the spring preload so the rear end is not so high up in the air
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:21 AM   #93
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge A. Storms
Thanks for the replay Erling, I should have mentioned I replaced the stock seat with a Sargent, same issue though. I am right around 5'9"ish so I guess I qualify.
I have the new rox risers, but don`t use them. I`m not too fond of the design, and The clutch cable need to be longer along with the brake line. I use the $20 TT 20mm riser blocks for now, until I get a longer clutch cable. I think someone mentioned that the s model is 2 inches longer. I have long arms, and I when I had the rox on...my riding position was a little better than the 20mm risers. If you go the rox way, just make sure you address the clutch cable issue as well.

Erling
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Old 04-29-2010, 08:10 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randolf
Try loosening the the spring preload so the rear end is not so high up in the air
I can do this while the bike is on the ground correct? I havent played with the suspension yet, I actually have a thread on it. Will this give me a mushy ride?

The TT risers is the way I was going to go, finally a part that does not cost a fortune.
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:31 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serge A. Storms
I can do this while the bike is on the ground correct? I havent played with the suspension yet, I actually have a thread on it. Will this give me a mushy ride?

The TT risers is the way I was going to go, finally a part that does not cost a fortune.
Well, I was just kidding :) While the spring preload will move the tail of the bike upwards/downwards, it should not be that significant... but you might give it a try - turn the plastic handle all the way left (loose).
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Old 04-30-2010, 08:57 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randolf
Well, I was just kidding :) While the spring preload will move the tail of the bike upwards/downwards, it should not be that significant... but you might give it a try - turn the plastic handle all the way left (loose).
I didnt think so nut never played with it so yep, you got me. But heck, even a half inch could make a bit of difference on a bike if its in the right spot. A half inch riser would make a difference, not much but a little.

I think I am obsessing over this bike, I have too much time on my hands.
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:43 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags
Just reverse the brake line. You'll have plenty of clearance afterwards.
drrags, did you switch the clutch cable for something longer too? or did you find a way to re-route it to give it more slack? (like with the R12GS Rox install)
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Old 05-29-2010, 12:03 PM   #98
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I re-routed it. Instead of going between the left fork tube and the frame, it is now routed to the left of the left fork tube. Plenty of slack now.
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:37 AM   #99
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse
I tried the same thing but didn't like the look of the open holes left behind. Picky, picky, I know. I didn't try it with a tank bag though. I have a Wolfman Enduro that I've used for several bikes and it's worked fine but I don't like the mounting set-up on the 800.... but that's a post for another thread.
Here's a pointer to one of the other threads - on the tank bag that is...

This was how I solved it:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=304

JRWooden screwed with this post 06-02-2010 at 06:02 AM
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:18 PM   #100
Big Duke 6
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Thumb

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
Here's a pointer to one of the other threads - on the tank bag that is...

This was how I solved it:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=304
That's Slick!!
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:59 PM   #101
JRWooden
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My 2nd iteration was to use button head cap screws that are easier to engage and disengage and used just one plasti-lock nut instead of two jamb-nuts.

But yeah, I like the way it works!

JRWooden screwed with this post 06-04-2010 at 08:53 PM
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Old 07-01-2010, 06:47 PM   #102
gofast1320
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Rox Risers

Got my SW-Motech crash bars along with a set of 1.75 rise 1 1/8 stem clamp 1 1/8 bar Rox Risers today and just finished putting everything on. Seems good to go.

Now got to go ride before the deer start moving.
Will report back on how it went with the risers. I do not want to test the crash bars.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:35 PM   #103
gofast1320
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rox risers

45 miles later. I'm liking them. Got some adjusting to do, but I'm glad I got them.Gotta do something about that seat.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:20 PM   #104
Big Duke 6
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Sargent World Sport Performance Seat

Quote:
Originally Posted by gofast1320
45 miles later. I'm liking them. Got some adjusting to do, but I'm glad I got them.Gotta do something about that seat.
I just added the Sargent WSPS with a side order of Alaskan Buttpad Pillion Type 1 Deluxe. Not perfect but so much better for my old ass! I think this set-up is as good as it gets.
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:59 AM   #105
gofast1320
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Rox risers

Quote:
Originally Posted by drrags
I re-routed it. Instead of going between the left fork tube and the frame, it is now routed to the left of the left fork tube. Plenty of slack now.
What he said PLUS on the brake hose- I just turned that mother around. Swapped ends and its good to go. Plenty of slack there too now.
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