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Old 07-31-2010, 09:32 AM   #211
FloridaSteve
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Holt Sh#T Nordie! That shold be "enough" power for you! You need a build thread on this one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
And put the spare forks and swingarm to good use too...

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Old 07-31-2010, 05:47 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FloridaSteve
Holt Sh#T Nordie! That shold be "enough" power for you! You need a build thread on this one!
It's "only" a 400.
Better mileage than the 650 though and the same power.

Once it gets a little further along I'll do a thread but at the moment it's stalled waiting on parts.
Loom, cdi, regulator, engine mounts...

The front is almost finished but the rest is just mocked up for the photo and inspiration.
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Old 08-01-2010, 03:22 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger
I hate to ruin the flow of this disaster thread, but........ How about the guys with DR's that have gone 40,50, or 60,000 miles with out so much as a fart out of their DR's? Maybe compare that to how many have catastrophicly blown their guts all over the countryside maiming small children and igniting forest fires with the wreckage.

So check in if your one of the lucky few who has a reliable DR.
Mine runs better with no funny noises at 21,000 miles then it did at 12,000.
I do hammer it kinda hard and may have a check done on the oil to see what kind of particulates are floating around in there.
I'm definitely one of the "lucky few" although, around my neck of the woods we aren't a "few" as I've seen other 96+ DR650's parked with 30,000 + miles on their clocks.
I've had a 91 (traded in on the 97) go 50,000 miles and totaled out the 97 just shy of 50,000 miles.
#3 is about a year old now and ready to hit 8,000 miles. Provided this one doesn't see any misfortunes, my goal is to hit 100,000 miles or more without cracking the engine cases so I can document the thing here on ADV rider to shut-up all the nay-sayers about the reliability of an air/oil cooled engine.
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:20 AM   #214
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There is nothing wrong with doing a periodic freshening of the motor. Just look at airplane engines. No way do those get run till they break. They get torn down at specific intervals. A top end, clutch and third gear isn't too much to ask for maximum life expectancy somewhere down the road.
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Old 08-01-2010, 02:47 PM   #215
FloridaSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayjars
There is nothing wrong with doing a periodic freshening of the motor. Just look at airplane engines. No way do those get run till they break. They get torn down at specific intervals. A top end, clutch and third gear isn't too much to ask for maximum life expectancy somewhere down the road.
I'll give you the clutch and even the top end but a well designed and maintained transmission should go a loooong time.
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:55 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
And put the spare forks and swingarm to good use too...

That looks like an early 80's 16 valve Suzuki 750 motor. Square cam covers are a giveaway. Plus, I had an '81 GS750E that I LOVED (rip).
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Old 08-05-2010, 02:20 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buggy
That looks like an early 80's 16 valve Suzuki 750 motor. Square cam covers are a giveaway. Plus, I had an '81 GS750E that I LOVED (rip).
'81 GSX400F

Only about 15kg heavier than the DR with similar power and ground clearance and far better mpg.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:13 PM   #218
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Another one...

Heavy handed Oz yobbo this time.

NordieBoy (NZ) 2001 60,000km
Transalper (NZ) 2001 55,000km
Rosscoact (AU) 2004 13,000km
Mardy (US) 1997 53,000km
Haddon (NZ) 1999 40,000km
RubberCow80 (AU) 2001 25,000km
Philth (AU) 3 bikes <20,000km
BikeRooter (AU) 2006 10,200km
Madsdad (US) 2005 16,000km
briangv99 (AU) 2006 21,000km
bluebye (US) 2004 37,000km
Coyote X (US) 2007 33,800km
DRjoe (AU) 1997 100,000km
DRJens (SE) 2001 23,000km
DRjoe (AU) 2003 15,000km
Helicopter (NZ) 2002 ???km
Klay (US) 2001 29,000km
RobTheButch (AU) 2007 17,000km
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:40 PM   #219
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Still a very low failure rate for the marque. I've got ten thousand miles on the new motor...I'm not really worried about it at all.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:31 AM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Still a very low failure rate for the marque. I've got ten thousand miles on the new motor...I'm not really worried about it at all.
60,000km on my "new" motor. Running nicely with the FCR.

Next weekends ride is out where it died last time.

I'm taking a full spares/tool kit. I'm going with the "take it and you won't need it" mindset.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:40 AM   #221
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I dunno Nord's, post count of one & no pics? gotta scratch my itchy beard.

He's not on here anyhow.

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Old 09-09-2010, 01:41 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
60,000km on my "new" motor. Running nicely with the FCR.

Next weekends ride is out where it died last time.

I'm taking a full spares/tool kit. I'm going with the "take it and you won't need it" mindset.
I think we'll have to talk about carbies soon. Mite skip all the playing around with the stock one and go straight to an FCR or TM40
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:40 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil
I think we'll have to talk about carbies soon. Mite skip all the playing around with the stock one and go straight to an FCR or TM40
A worked BST is a big jump over the stocker.
A flat slide is a big jump over a worked BST.
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:30 AM   #224
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Just to add some figures from a small environment:

Background:
I owned and ran seven DR650SE of various year models (2x1997; 3x2001; 1x2002; 1x 2007) as my private bike or bike hire bikes.
Mileage to date between 31000km (2007) and 105000km ('97)

Problems encountered:
3 cylinder base gaskets blown after prolonged and serious overheating (both '97's twice and one 2001 once. Two 2001's sold with high mileage and old gasket . Some okes don't understand the concept "air cooled". To put it into relation: One 2001, mostly personal use over 60000km still has the old fibre gasket and never leaked. The leaky ones always made it home somewhat oily but ok.

Starter commuter brushes seized on the 2007 after about 2000km and on one 2001 after some 30000km. Cheap and easy enough to fix (disassemble, clean with small file & carb cleaner, assemble). No idea why it happened on the 2007, the older bike had suffered some abuse (tried to start with throttle wide open, drowned and overheated starter afterwards).

A few other minor niggles like a cracked header pipe weld, a cracked timing chain tensioner gasket, a timing chain tensioner with a broken spring, a countershaft oil seal pushed out and a perished starter clutch (105000km). Freak incidents. One burned clutch on a bike with less than 2000km. Rider stupidity.

Combined mileage of all my DR's around half a million kilometres with some level of abuse typical for bike hire bikes with no gearbox failures.

The part number change of the gears might be related to a technical modification (material, heat treatment, design) but might also just indicate another supplier of an otherwise identical part. Note that a friend's June 2009 DR650SE broke its gearbox last weekend. I draw the conclusion that the modification of the part does not prevent the failure (?)

I do NOT see the DR gearbox as a reason not to buy the bike. The failures seem to me - out of my limited experience - like very rare occurances, still nasty and expensive if it happens to you of course.

I put this into relation to eigt KLR's owned. The first six all spat out doohickeys and springs on a regular basis and wore out balancer chains until modified with Eagle Mike levers. 7 and 8 were converted new.
I have Eagle levered some 50 customers KLR's over the years and have a big jam jar with all the old (pre 2008) doohickeys with probably 70% of them broken and nearly each and every pre 2008 OEM doohickey spring broken.
One doo went through the gears of one of my KLR's converting the crankcase (cracked) and gearbox (disintegrated gears) to scrap.
Gets me to six out of six bikes affected (don't count 7 and 8 as I did not wait for problems to occur) with one out of six ending up with CEF and beyond economic repair and some 70% (90% if I count the springs) of fifty or so bikes affected if I consider all bikes serviced & repaired by me.
Definitely an issue.

After boring you with all this irelevant rubbish:

I'd like to know if all gearbox failures with broken gears were accompanied by broken selector forks?
Looking at year models and mileages of affected bikes there is too much variance to make it a proper design flaw failure pattern.
I suspect that a bent or broken selector fork could be the actual cause of the problem, allowing two gears to engage simultaneously.
This scenario will inevitably break the weakest of the gears but it will mean prevention is replacement of the selector fork if damage is suspected and routine replacement of the gear is a waste of money: Protection of the selector forks & shifting drum mechanism by modification (crash protection) of the gearshift lever assembly would be the cure.

Close examination of a fractured gear should also reveal a design flaw as the fracture should show signs of a fatigue crack that developed before the gear failed. A homogenous fracture points at an external cause.
Using standard engineering principles you can expect a fatigue crack to develop across at least one third of the fractures cross section (most likely haldf or more) before the part fails.

The attached picture shows a failure of a KTM690 transmission main shaft as an example:
Red marks a fault that starts the fatigue crack by serving as a stress concentrator. The orange arrows show the direction of the fatigue crack developing with clearly visible tree ring like halt marks indicated in green. When the load bearing cross section was reduced to about 40% (blue) the shaft snapped.
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:35 AM   #225
NordieBoy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lecap
I'd like to know if all gearbox failures with broken gears were accompanied by broken selector forks?
Looking at year models and mileages of affected bikes there is too much variance to make it a proper design flaw failure pattern.
I suspect that a bent or broken selector fork could be the actual cause of the problem, allowing two gears to engage simultaneously.
This scenario will inevitably break the weakest of the gears but it will mean prevention is replacement of the selector fork if damage is suspected and routine replacement of the gear is a waste of money: Protection of the selector forks & shifting drum mechanism by modification (crash protection) of the gearshift lever assembly would be the cure.

Close examination of a fractured gear should also reveal a design flaw as the fracture should show signs of a fatigue crack that developed before the gear failed. A homogenous fracture points at an external cause.
Using standard engineering principles you can expect a fatigue crack to develop across at least one third of the fractures cross section (most likely haldf or more) before the part fails.
The only selector fork broken was the one on the 3rd drive gear that shattered. Chicken or egg. Difficult to tell...

My 3rd gear was in 4 pieces which would indicate shattering?



I'm going to drop it and a new gear in to my bro's work (make race gearboxes for Manx Nortons) sometime and see what the boss says.

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