Looking for some Ottawa area riders (BMW or otherwise)

[Drif10]

Originally Posted by shipwrek12001

UPS

after receiving bling by UPS, a few weeks later I receive in the mail a bill from them. Do I really have to pay it?

Gotta love their 'brokerage' fees.

Made a $17 item ring in at $62 when they were done.

Nah, nothing wrong with the way they do business. Nope.

[shipwrek12001]

Originally Posted by Drif10

Gotta love their 'brokerage' fees.

Made a $17 item ring in at $62 when they were done.

Nah, nothing wrong with the way they do business. Nope.

In my case the bling was 65$ shipping on the front end was 30$ and the bill in the mail is 42$

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by shipwrek12001

In my case the bling was 65$ shipping on the front end was 30$ and the bill in the mail is 42$

If the only alternative for shipping is UPS, I choose not to buy. UPS Brokerage fees are a blatant ripoff.

[pelvis_98]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

Thanks for this, Brian. I saw on F800Riders that you had changed yours so I wondered what tool you had used. I found some drill bits today which look like they'll get the race started (Cue audio - Gentlemen, start your engines!) and once it's moving, use the nail trick like you described.

I dont know if this is a "recommended" way of doing it. I was just careful and it seemed to go ok.

I cut a slit in the old bearing and put it on top of new bearing to push it on.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by pelvis_98

I dont know if this is a "recommended" way of doing it. I was just careful and it seemed to go ok.

I cut a slit in the old bearing and put it on top of new bearing to push it on.

If you read the Haynes manual, it recommends using two screwdrivers to lever it off, or "tap with a cold chisel under the bearing" or "split it with an angle grinder", all methods likely to damage things. Yikes.

When I put the new bearing onto the stem, I found a short section of chain link fence pipe was the right size to pound the bearing down without damage.

[pelvis_98]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

If you read the Haynes manual, it recommends using two screwdrivers to lever it off, or "tap with a cold chisel under the bearing" or "split it with an angle grinder", all methods likely to damage things. Yikes.

When I put the new bearing onto the stem, I found a short section of chain link fence pipe was the right size to pound the bearing down without damage.

I had read some place to cut the bearing with the grinder. I knew i would never be able to do that with out causing damage. Instead i cut it after to use for protection to install the new one.

The fence post would work great, unfortunately my neighbour wasn't so willing to let me cut a small section out of his.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by pelvis_98

The fence post would work great, unfortunately my neighbour wasn't so willing to let me cut a small section out of his.

The size you need is the one used for the top rail of fence. He'd never notice.

But if you want a piece, we have an extra section you can have.

[peterthefarmer]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

Looking for a drift: time to change the steering head bearings on both of our GS BMWs and the lower ball on the stem is easy to get out if you have a 1/8" drift, as you can punch it off using the two holes in the steering yoke, but those holes are about 1.25 deep and none of the drifts I've found so far is that long.

Anyone have any idea where I can find that kind of tool, or some hardened rod I can use that way?

This is the kind of thing I need, but longer than normal:



This is what the outer bearing race looked like. (Bike handled terribly, of course)

Did you get the inner race out Mike? A piece of drill rod will work (machine shop will have). When your putting the outer race in throw it in the freezer for a couple hours first, makes life a lot easer.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by peterthefarmer

Did you get the inner race out Mike? A piece of drill rod will work (machine shop will have). When your putting the outer race in throw it in the freezer for a couple hours first, makes life a lot easer.

More good suggestions - thanks Peter. I did get the bearing off the stem on Stephanie's bike but have my own F800 to do, probably this week.

I did put the outer races into the freezer, and in fact the set for the 800 are still in the freezer - must remember that when I go looking for them later!

[Drif10]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

I did put the outer races into the freezer, and in fact the set for the 800 are still in the freezer - must remember that when I go looking for them later!

I have an old toaster oven in the garage for heating up the lower bearing before I drop it on the frozen stem. Drops in nice as you please.

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by Drif10

I have an old toaster oven in the garage for heating up the lower bearing before I drop it on the frozen stem. Drops in nice as you please.

I put mine on the top shelf of the gas bbq set to lowest heat.

[Drif10]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

I put mine on the top shelf of the gas bbq set to lowest heat.

Use what you got.

[dresda]

Originally Posted by Drif10

I have an old toaster oven in the garage for heating up the lower bearing before I drop it on the frozen stem. Drops in nice as you please.

In this house its quite okay to heat one up in the kitchen

[Emmbeedee]

Wow, sure is easy when you have something like the right tool for the job.

I bought a 9/64" drill bit, ground the fluted section off to make a punch out of it, and it worked! This drill bit cost me $4, but it was worth it.



And it only took me two minutes to punch the bearing off.



Yay! Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

[thumpididump]

Yes, a little fuel will usually remain in the bowl. As Ted says, fuel stabilizer is a good idea. I like to add stabilizer to the fuel, then start the engine and shut off the petcock, and run the engine till it dies. That's about as much as you can do short of removing the bowl. Remember that ethanol blended fuels breakdown quicker than good old straight gasoline. Ethanol will also absorb water moisture from the air.

Either way, pull your carb and give it a good cleaning. Then drain your old gas (yes, even if it's a full tank) and refill with fresh.

Originally Posted by heli00

Thanks Derek.yes, everything was good last fall. I did drained the carb bowl, but I didn't run the motor after that. I suppose just draining the bawl may not be enough. Maybe I should have ran the engine until it would stop, that way all the gas left in the carb would have been consumed. Do you know, once the bowl is drained, is there still gas inside the carb?
I'll start with the pilot for now.
Ovi.

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