ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-25-2013, 07:09 AM   #1561
MCM
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 62
Brucifer.........
Thanks! I was 18 in 1980 (Riding a 75 XL250 at the time with a Bassani pipe as I recall). So I was not 100% sure. But do kinda remember the same. Funny I have posted this all over and its still a semi mystery. About the 1st time I could not find info on something so simple on the net. 1st time Google strikes out. Bought the carb off the same running 5k mile bike so jetting should be spot on.
I am in the USA.....

[QUOTE=brucifer;22856108]I don't know where you're located but the only time I've seen that Honda script on the muffler like that in the USA is on the HRC power up parts muffler.
You've got a pretty rare part there if that's what it is.

Honda Racing Service Center (RSC) was the division till around 82, then it became HRC. This one is really bugging me......... LOL LOL

MCM screwed with this post 11-25-2013 at 08:26 AM
MCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #1562
Horizontal
Goatin' Around
 
Horizontal's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 272
Quote:
Originally Posted by brucifer View Post
Welcome to the world of Honda XLs.
The early '80s XL and XR machines are some of my favorite bikes. It looks like you have a pretty decent one there.

You didn't realize Honda made dual sports this old? Heck, their first true single cylinder four stroke dual sport was in 1972 with the SL250--whose name was soon changed to the XL250 in 1973.
They had a twin cylinder dual sport in the form of the SL350 from 1969 to 1973 I believe.
Prior to that they had some '60s CL models that were basically street bikes with high pipes and some other minor differences to make them more "off road" worthy.
Thanks, B-man. I guess my only excuse for not knowing about this stuff was that I had other concerns in the late sixties and early seventies which was more or less split between not being drafted and getting laid.I'm sure I missed a lot of other stuff, too. I do, now that you've jogged my memory, remember the Scrambler, which I always loved the look of.

MCM ~ Yikes! Stripped bolts suck. Can you drill them out and use an extractor? Doesn't look like they're frozen with rust, at least. What year is your monster? My engine's black but yours looks silver.
__________________

The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
~ Albert Einstein

1983 Honda XL250R 1971 Yamaha DT1E 250 Enduro
Horizontal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 08:54 AM   #1563
MCM
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 62
Its an 80 XL500s. Bolts are fine, its the alum female threads that are stripped. Need to heli coil or install timeserts. Not a big deal.
MCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 09:33 AM   #1564
Horizontal
Goatin' Around
 
Horizontal's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 272
Oh. Think someone got carried away with the torque wrench?

Any idea on the meaning of this or if it's important? R32D or R320. Noticed it on the backside of my 250.

__________________

The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
~ Albert Einstein

1983 Honda XL250R 1971 Yamaha DT1E 250 Enduro
Horizontal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 10:02 AM   #1565
MCM
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 62
Yards use that type of marking to ID parts. Check the engine number & see if its the right yr. for your bike. Just a thought..........
Otherwise, I have no idea.
MCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 11:28 AM   #1566
Horizontal
Goatin' Around
 
Horizontal's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 272
Makes sense. Yeah, I'll do a number search. Thanks. I thought it might have been a mechanic's code, like when they replace the timing belt in a car. Your answer I like better.
__________________

The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
~ Albert Einstein

1983 Honda XL250R 1971 Yamaha DT1E 250 Enduro
Horizontal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2013, 03:48 PM   #1567
MCM
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 62
Things were going so well! Then it happened. The engine fell out.

MCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2013, 08:37 PM   #1568
MCM
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 62
Anyone know where I can down load the service manual for my 1980 XL500? Thanks!
MCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 08:39 AM   #1569
redprimo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: central coast of California
Oddometer: 342
I have a1980XL500s that i'm a but further along than you in restoring, but if I don't get my butt in gear you might finish before me. I have aHaynes manual, not the clearest but it has worked for everything I've needed so far with one exception.

I don't have time to scan the whole book but I can scan or photograph any pages you need. I found what was supposed to be s digital version of the manual on an Italian site but I couldn't get it to download or view online.

My Haynes book covers all XL/XR 500's including the RFVC engines a well as the 600, which is why it isn't always the clearest.

The one thing I have not been able to find in my manual is info on my front brake. My original rim had a crack so I bought a front wheel on ebay. The new wheel is 23" and the bearings are the same, however the brake drum is larger in diameter a tad wider. It is still single leading shoe. I need a new set of shoes and can't find any info on these, I hate the idea of having to send these out to be relined.
redprimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2013, 08:49 AM   #1570
MCM
Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2012
Oddometer: 62
That's cool your restoring the same bike.
No idea on the front brake. I wonder if 23" XR 500 brakes were bigger?
Of the 3 yrs they used the 23" FW, I would think they would all be the same. I too am leaving the "big" wheel. Gives it character....... And makes it a wheelie monster.

As far as scans go. I need the torque spec's page. And the Top end rebuild section would be nice. Other than that I hate to put you through too much trouble. I found an on line copy in German. LOL LOL

Thanks in advance!
MCM

(Now back to cleaning parts).........

MCM screwed with this post 11-27-2013 at 09:00 AM
MCM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 06:40 AM   #1571
pvangel
Team AARP
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Location: South Salem, NY
Oddometer: 2,291
For sale in FM.



http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=937595
pvangel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 07:52 AM   #1572
redprimo
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: central coast of California
Oddometer: 342
PM sent



Quote:
Originally Posted by MCM View Post
That's cool your restoring the same bike.
No idea on the front brake. I wonder if 23" XR 500 brakes were bigger?
Of the 3 yrs they used the 23" FW, I would think they would all be the same. I too am leaving the "big" wheel. Gives it character....... And makes it a wheelie monster.

As far as scans go. I need the torque spec's page. And the Top end rebuild section would be nice. Other than that I hate to put you through too much trouble. I found an on line copy in German. LOL LOL

Thanks in advance!
MCM

(Now back to cleaning parts).........
redprimo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 11:04 AM   #1573
Horizontal
Goatin' Around
 
Horizontal's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oddometer: 272
Eek Carb Advice Needed

Hey ~

Anyone familiar with the Kiehin PD74A series carb please pipe up. I was taking mine apart to give it a much-needed cleaning and check on the jet sizes to see if they were stock. I've done this before on other bikes with no problem but this one last step has thrown me for a loop and I thought I'd listen to some words of wisdom before blindly plowing ahead on my own.

It's the arm on the top that holds the slide and the needle. My Clymer's manual says to remove the two screws at the top of the slide, swing the arm out of the way, and then remove the slide through the top. Fair enough, but one of those screws is right under the arm and worse, I don't have much faith that if I removed them, I don't see how I could re-seat the screws when it comes time for reassembly. Here's kind of a poorly-lit pic:



The two screws in question are inside that dark hole. Rotating the valve raises them a bit, but my hesitation remains. I looked up a YouTube vid where a guy was working on a similar though multi-carb layout and his method was to remove the nut holding the entire arm with the spring, loosen the big Phillips screw there on the right, and slide the bar far enough out of the carb to remove the entire thing at once. This would solve the problem with the two little screws but then introduces having to work with a spring under tension which is something I'm not too crazy about.

So, that's why I'm here. I'll do whichever is necessary. I just want to know which way is best. Oh yeah, this is out of an 83 XL250R.

Much thanks and Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
__________________

The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits.
~ Albert Einstein

1983 Honda XL250R 1971 Yamaha DT1E 250 Enduro
Horizontal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 12:07 PM   #1574
brucifer
Beastly Adventurer
 
brucifer's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Eureka, Ca.
Oddometer: 2,231
Quote:
Originally Posted by Horizontal View Post
Hey ~

Anyone familiar with the Kiehin PD74A series carb please pipe up. I was taking mine apart to give it a much-needed cleaning and check on the jet sizes to see if they were stock. I've done this before on other bikes with no problem but this one last step has thrown me for a loop and I thought I'd listen to some words of wisdom before blindly plowing ahead on my own.

It's the arm on the top that holds the slide and the needle. My Clymer's manual says to remove the two screws at the top of the slide, swing the arm out of the way, and then remove the slide through the top. Fair enough, but one of those screws is right under the arm and worse, I don't have much faith that if I removed them, I don't see how I could re-seat the screws when it comes time for reassembly. Here's kind of a poorly-lit pic:



The two screws in question are inside that dark hole. Rotating the valve raises them a bit, but my hesitation remains. I looked up a YouTube vid where a guy was working on a similar though multi-carb layout and his method was to remove the nut holding the entire arm with the spring, loosen the big Phillips screw there on the right, and slide the bar far enough out of the carb to remove the entire thing at once. This would solve the problem with the two little screws but then introduces having to work with a spring under tension which is something I'm not too crazy about.

So, that's why I'm here. I'll do whichever is necessary. I just want to know which way is best. Oh yeah, this is out of an 83 XL250R.

Much thanks and Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Taking the two screws out of the top of the slide is the way to go. Just make sure you have a screwdriver that fits well and use a good amount of downward force so you don't round out the heads. It can be done. Take your time and have a little patience.

I just did this on my XR600 yesterday with the carb on the bike.
__________________
2005 KTM 525EXC-2000 Buell M2 Cyclone-1996 XR600R-Plated 1995 XR600R-1993 Kawasaki KX500-1984 Honda XL600R/XR650L Hybrid-1984 Yamaha TT600L-1980 Honda CB750F
brucifer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 01:15 PM   #1575
lookfar
from the land of OZ
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Cairns, FNQ
Oddometer: 573
Quote:
Originally Posted by Horizontal View Post
Hey ~

Anyone familiar with the Kiehin PD74A series carb please pipe up. I was taking mine apart to give it a much-needed cleaning and check on the jet sizes to see if they were stock. I've done this before on other bikes with no problem but this one last step has thrown me for a loop and I thought I'd listen to some words of wisdom before blindly plowing ahead on my own.

It's the arm on the top that holds the slide and the needle. My Clymer's manual says to remove the two screws at the top of the slide, swing the arm out of the way, and then remove the slide through the top. Fair enough, but one of those screws is right under the arm and worse, I don't have much faith that if I removed them, I don't see how I could re-seat the screws when it comes time for reassembly. Here's kind of a poorly-lit pic:



The two screws in question are inside that dark hole. Rotating the valve raises them a bit, but my hesitation remains. I looked up a YouTube vid where a guy was working on a similar though multi-carb layout and his method was to remove the nut holding the entire arm with the spring, loosen the big Phillips screw there on the right, and slide the bar far enough out of the carb to remove the entire thing at once. This would solve the problem with the two little screws but then introduces having to work with a spring under tension which is something I'm not too crazy about.

So, that's why I'm here. I'll do whichever is necessary. I just want to know which way is best. Oh yeah, this is out of an 83 XL250R.

Much thanks and Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
I remove the big phillips screw on the right, then the slide can be moved easily for better access to the screws on the slide.
Use a magnetised screwdriver and you won't have any problems locating the slide screws on reassembly.

HTH
__________________
Stu in FNQ
The early bird catches the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese.
Growing old is mandatory... growing up is optional.
1985 XL250R
1985 XL600R 1988 XR600
lookfar is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 11:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014