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Old 06-08-2011, 09:55 PM   #766
Snr Moment
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IIRC, 42 is stamped on the rear.

I'm in CDA for several days & had Recycled Cycles in Hayden put on a used front tire for me today. I think the tire was original - didn't like the pounding it got today. They also have a used Keihin available for it. Tempted to do a quick swap if it's clean. Mikuni isn't exactly giving their carbs away and I hate to spend more for a part than I paid for the bike.
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:45 AM   #767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Off the top of my head I want to say 42... But I'll have to check for sure. Seems like the one on the bike was a 48, and it was HUGE.
Stock is 15/48 at least for the '72-'75. When I got my one 250 it had a 14 in front and the stock 48 in back. It was wound out and done at 45 mph. Now it has a 15 and a 42 and a beefy 140/80/18 adventure tire on the rear which is probably good for another effective tooth or two. Since then it's seen 60 in canyons and city streets, but has only glimpsed 5th gear, so 80? yea I'd say geared like this it's pretty doable. My other 250 was equally ticket resistant and freeway proof with a 15/54 combo. It now sports the same gear and rubber (and cool chromed EK chain) but hasn't seen the canyons yet.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:14 AM   #768
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I went from 15/48 to 15/42 on my 250.
15/48 did O.K. in the dirt. 15/42 is much better on the street....
Can now hit 60 mph. Doesn't like it to much,
but can now run 45-50mph at lower rpm's.

Haven't hit the dirt yet with this combo. A 14/42 will probably be better &
easier to change out if I'm headed to the woods.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:44 AM   #769
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Not very much... I've got a 175 and while its torquey, there isnt much go. Not I think you'd be lucky to hit 60 on a 175, but I've heard people here say they could hit 80. My 350's will do 80 and they get there fairly fast, but with stock gearing, 80 mph is it.

Thanks again.

I am really looking forward to a long ride on this thing in the next few weeks.

Just a few more bugs to work out.
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:15 PM   #770
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According to the numbers, mine's 15/48. Top speed = 50 mph @ 5,000 rpm. Have some work to do on it. Anybody have a Mikuni for sale?
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:27 PM   #771
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So I've got a spark plug question...

Working on a '78 XL350 for a guy. Did a bunch of work for him last year and its been running great. He brought it back a few days ago not running. Turns out it was just a fouled spark plug. Looks like its running rich, and it starts right up without choke. Engine feels a little tired but again, runs good. I'm pretty sure the needle has been lowered already. He doesnt ride much, and when he does, he goes on short rides and basically just put-puts along.

Question is- should I get him a slightly hotter plug to keep it from fouling, or should I try a slightly leaner jet? Might screw the idle mixture screw in a quarter turn too while I'm at it, since I'm pretty sure he never gets it over 1/3 throttle.
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Old 06-09-2011, 03:40 PM   #772
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I grew up in central PA. Not high elevation. Just a regular Suquehanna valley situation. Whenever summer rolled around my mechanic gave me a b8es intead of a b7es to stop fouling. He claimed it was the simplest solution and involved no carb work and no risk.

I know very little about combustion other than what I have learned from empirical evidence. Humidity seems to affect older engines.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:38 PM   #773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
So I've got a spark plug question...

Working on a '78 XL350 for a guy. Did a bunch of work for him last year and its been running great. He brought it back a few days ago not running. Turns out it was just a fouled spark plug. Looks like its running rich, and it starts right up without choke. Engine feels a little tired but again, runs good. I'm pretty sure the needle has been lowered already. He doesnt ride much, and when he does, he goes on short rides and basically just put-puts along.

Question is- should I get him a slightly hotter plug to keep it from fouling, or should I try a slightly leaner jet? Might screw the idle mixture screw in a quarter turn too while I'm at it, since I'm pretty sure he never gets it over 1/3 throttle.
NGK actually suggests a resistor plug as the replacement for the original spec plug (that they no longer make) given that the XLs have a resistor cap, a resistor plug is not a great replacement. I use a Denso X24ES-U for that reason as do a lot of the CB750 guys (which originally speced the same D-8ESL plug). My old XL125s used to foul NGKs all the time and the ND "U" plugs seemed a lot more foul resistant, and that was back when the original spec plugs were still around. If you use D8EA plugs you should be running a straight cap and not a resistor cap in theory to get the same spark as what was originally intended. I know spark plug brands can be a religious debate but half the original electrical is Denso to begin with on these bikes, and hey they're like $2.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:54 AM   #774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Ray View Post
I grew up in central PA. Not high elevation. Just a regular Suquehanna valley situation. Whenever summer rolled around my mechanic gave me a b8es intead of a b7es to stop fouling. He claimed it was the simplest solution and involved no carb work and no risk.

I know very little about combustion other than what I have learned from empirical evidence. Humidity seems to affect older engines.

From what I read, the 7 is a HOTTER plug than the 8, the lower the number the hotter it is. I guess it makes sense that you would want a cooler plug in the summer and a hotter one in the winter.

The stock plug for the XL350 is a D8EA, so if I wanted a step hotter, I need a D7. We'll give it a try and see how it works.

Theres some great info on it all here: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:43 PM   #775
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its been a while but here is my XL185 that i ride almost daily.

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Old 06-10-2011, 08:42 PM   #776
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Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post

Question is- should I get him a slightly hotter plug to keep it from fouling, or should I try a slightly leaner jet?
I'd try moving the needle first to correct a rich or lean condition using the manufacture spec plug myself.
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Old 06-11-2011, 04:40 PM   #777
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Hate to do it but...... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post16141806
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Old 06-11-2011, 05:30 PM   #778
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Today we got the bike running better via a timing and airscrew adjustment. That felt pretty good.

There is still some minor backfiring and roughness at certain rpm's. But it idles steadily. I am hoping that some roughness will dissipate as the bike is run more. If not I will work harder.

One big step in actually riding was accomplished when we got the clutch unlocked. Yay!

Unfortunately we left the battery hooked up while we were working on all that and appatently killed the battery. I guess there must be a ground somewhere.....wtf!

So we were not rewarded with a trip around the block and we don't have a 6v charger.

until next time.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:17 PM   #779
Snr Moment
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After 350+ miles of flogging her on 2 lane back road twisties, a new used tire, and a lot of time up in the mountains around Coeur d'Alene, she's running better than ever. Nearing 60 mph without missing/hesitating/choking and the turn signals have even started working.

I think a daily dose of fresh gas has done a lot for it. Getting in the mid 70's for mileage. Neither burns nor leaks oil. Usually starts on first kick hot, warm or cold. Only time it doesn't, it's operator failure. I hate that kill switch.

Have some pix, but my laptop and aircard cannot handle the load, so they'll go up as soon as possible.

It will be getting a Mikuni carb and a new exhaust system. Got a quote for the whole carb deal - carb, cable, filter, pre-jetted, extra jets - for about $300 from XLint. Found the bare Mikuni another place for $140. I'm giving serious thought to putting on a pod filter, so I don't know if I need the whole shebang. Any input on that would be greatly appreciated.

A custom header pipe without the Supertrapp is about $150. I'm still undecided whether or not I want to just fab up an extension off the existing header and stick on an FMF Turbinecore or the Chinese muffler I found at the local bike scrap yard. Thoughts on this too are appreciated.

Bad news for the guy who wanted to buy it - it's a keeper. My first thumper and I now understand the addiction.
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Old 06-11-2011, 07:38 PM   #780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Ray View Post
Today we got the bike running better via a timing and airscrew adjustment. That felt pretty good.
There is still some minor backfiring and roughness at certain rpm's. But it idles steadily. I am hoping that some roughness will dissipate as the bike is run more. If not I will work harder.
One big step in actually riding was accomplished when we got the clutch unlocked. Yay!
Unfortunately we left the battery hooked up while we were working on all that and appatently killed the battery. I guess there must be a ground somewhere.....wtf!
So we were not rewarded with a trip around the block and we don't have a 6v charger.
until next time.
Should start & run with a dead battery.
headlight/tail light should also work with a dead battery... after it's running.
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