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Old 02-28-2012, 12:23 AM   #16
davecambo
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im sorry but unfortunately no matter how hard i search i can only find the 15 page thread on the ktm 690 enduro. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

ktm punter what did you ride prior to the 690 enduro mate?
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:30 AM   #17
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If you are considering the 690R you should also test ride the Husky TE630. In the past I've owned both a TT250R and a DRZ400E but have been on the Husky since last July and done 6,000+kms. It's a terrific bike on which I love every ride, but it is still a compromise betwen dirt & road. I chose it over the 690R because:

1. I'd read of reliability issues with the 690R, which may or may not be fact;
2. The Husky's transmission is a wide range 6 speed and I'd read 690's was narrower; and
3. Price - the 690R was around $16K-$17K on road vs. $13K for the Husky with quite a few farkles (bash plate, heated grips, hand guards, longer shift lever, rear rack etc).

The 690R has more power, probably better suspension, is more modern and weighs less, I think around 139kgs vs. 150kgs for the TE, and I suspect it would be better off road. However both bikes weigh a lot more than a DRZ at 119kgs and are really a different class of bike. The DRZ was designed as an enduro bike, the TE and 690 as large dirt bikes/light adventure bikes, so you need to choose a bike that suits your intended riding.

The Husky doesn't feel like a 150kg bike and the only place I notice it is in very tight going or when things go wrong. Once she starts to topple it can be hard to catch. Its suspension, power, transmission and overall refinement are miles ahead of the DRZ and I would prefer to be on it any day except for extremely tight offroad work.

Onroad the TE will cruise all day at 120kmh with stock gearing, but it was overgeared. I dropped 1 tooth on the front (to 14) which made it far better offroad and 110kmh is still a comfortable cruising speed. It will easily sit on 120-130kmh if you want and it hammers from 110kmh to 140kmh, then more slowly to 150kmh and I haven't gone beyond that but there's not much more to come.

The TE was choked up terribly in stock form so I added Arrow pipes & ECU plus a JD EFI tuner, so its got heaps of go now. For long distance adventure touring you would need to:

1. Replace the seat with a Seat Concepts aftermarket, about $300;
2. Reinforce the rear subframe, which can crack if too heavy a load is carried on rear rack over rough terrain; and
3. Consider fitting a small touring screen.

A 26L Safari tank and Wolfman rack & bags are available if you need them.

It's been a trouble free, reliable and fantastic bike for me, but don't expect it to replace the Duc on the road (I owned a 900SS for 10 years). It's still a big single that vibrates and will take its toll over longer rides, but anything under a few hours at a time is no problem.

Unfortunately the word is it's going to discontinued shortly and it's no longer available in the US, so looks like only a 2 year model run which is a real shame, as it's such a good bike.

Having said all the above, I think the 690R would also be an awesome bike, but unfortunately I haven't ridden one. However one of my mates has a new 300EXC 2 smoke and was riding with a 690R recently and had difficulty keeping up, so that says plenty to me as he's a good rider.

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Old 03-02-2012, 11:01 AM   #18
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SO ........KTM 690 OR ........ELSE !!!! WHAT !!??
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:46 PM   #19
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I moved from a 990 to the 690 like KTM Punter and haven't regretted it for a minute. The 690 faults are well documented and mostly fixable, some people haven't done a thing and their bikes have been perfect, its like anything you can be unlucky and buy a lemon.
With the Rally Raid Kit on mine it feels like the 990 but handles like a dirtbike should, it tracks much better, steers where you want it to go and can be manhandled over obstacles and popped over logs. I have gone back to standard gearing and it will cruise at 120 comfortably, if you want to cruise faster then go to the 16t front.
I loved my 990 but when I weigh up what I have lost and what I have gained I am more than happy with the 690 for my level of riding ability. 990 and the big beemer's can be ridden like motorcross bikes by the highly skilled so it depends how good you actually are opposed to how good you think you are.
I run Pirelli Scorpion Extra or Michelin Starcross MH3 Front tyre and the Tractionator Desert HT or Dunlop 606 Rear.
The Tractionator has had mix reviews and I think Motoz have developed the tyre over time as the latest ones are DOT approved so I think it depends how long ago that person tried one. I agree with earlier comments that they are slippy on wet tarmac but that is because they are a hard compound which makes them last for ever and tough as nails, swings and roundabouts, for $132 over $260 ish for a Dunlop Rally Raid its a no brainer. The 606 is softer and better all round but will only last half as long.
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Old 03-03-2012, 01:55 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Rus View Post
If you are considering the 690R you should also test ride the Husky TE630
The 690R has more power, probably better suspension, is more modern and weighs less, I think around 139kgs vs. 150kgs for the TE, and I suspect it would be better off road.
Sounds like the 690 would be far better
I just downsized from a 950 to a 690 and so far the 690 is a weapon.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:06 AM   #21
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Nice review mate. I pretty much agree with everything you said, but I've done 40,000 on mine. ;-)

The gearbox isn't perfect though, there is a tendency to false-neutral between 5th and 6th, and (very very rarely) 4th and 5th. It seems to get a bit better as the gearbox wears in (~15,000km), or maybe you just get used to it and shift a bit more deliberately into 6th.

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The brakes are unreal on tar and hard packed dirt but trecherous on the loose stuff - it takes very little input on the lever - 1 finger braking is the order of the day on soft stuff.
I think you're just not used to it yet. My 690 is the only bike I've ever ridden where I could confidently apply tons of front brake on steep slippery downhills, without ever locking it up. I'm talking about hills so slippery it would have taken several failed attempts to turn around and go back up.

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Back to the Michelin S12's. I've never used them before so don't know how they normally affect handling. One thing for sure, they howl like a banshee on both tar and dirt.
I didn't check tyre pressure before setting off () so don't know what pressure the shop decided on. What I can say is I didn't like it at all. The first half of the ride saw me leave St Albans heading north along Settlers Rd up to The Great North Rd then to Letter A and into the Watagans. I couldn't come to terms with the bike at all. As mentioned the steering is nervous but the tyres were making things decidedly worse. I couldn't get the front to hook up no matter how I entered corners and even on straight sections the feeling was vague at best.
At the point I stopped for a comfort break and decided to head back, I thought I'd try reducing tyre pressure a little (particularly the front). I didn't have a gauge with me so just went by tyre feel. Instant TRANSFORMATION - I was on a completely different bike...now the bike made me feel like Stefan Merriman. I can't adequately describe how this changed the handling and feel of the bike. However it resulted in me punting along the lower reaches of Settlers Rd at 120k, feedback from the front was awesome and 100+ through those great sweepers on the flood plains was a breeze.

Getting home I checked tyre pressures!!
8psi front
16psi rear
Leaves me in a bit of a quandary on what pressures to run in the future. Given how much air I let out (seat of the pants guess) I'd say pressure was set around 22psi from the shop and for my riding style this was way too hard.

I might try it at 16 front and rear although any feedback on S12's would be appreciated.
Dunno about those tyres, but I usually run mitas stonekings or pirelli scorpions (tube ones. the tubeless one is totally different). Normally I run at least 18psi even on dirt, and between 25 and 35 on pavement. Both those tyres work really well for me, good grip (just don't take the scorpions into mud ), nice and predictable when they do break traction, and perfectly stable all the way to the redline in 6th gear.

I mostly use pirelli's in the dry season (they're great on road and good enough in the dirt, but suicide if you even hit a mud puddle), and the stonekings in the wet season (great off road, acceptable for riding to work every day on road).
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:14 AM   #22
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The DRZ was designed as an enduro bike, the TE and 690 as large dirt bikes/light adventure bikes, so you need to choose a bike that suits your intended riding.
Mate, I've never ridden a TE, but if you class it as a "large dirt bike/light adventure bike" then I wonder how much it has in common with the 690.

You can (after spending a small fortune on farkles) turn a 690 into a "light adventure bike", but in stock form it's a proper enduro bike that just happens to have a big engine and good high speed stability. I do notice the weight a bit when I'm scull dragging it over a waist high fallen tree... but rarely notice it while actually riding.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:52 AM   #23
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Sounds like the 690 would be far better
I just downsized from a 950 to a 690 and so far the 690 is a weapon.

Better, I suspect so, but I haven't ridden one so don't know. Far better, not so sure, but it'd need to be as it cost a third more than the TE and at $$16K-$17K on the road felt like too much for a bike that would suffer the usual offroad abuse.

Power wise the 690 certainly has more, but in the dirt I'm not sure this would mean much as the TE has all you'd ever need and more. Onroad would be where you'd most notice the difference & the 690 would be a blast, although my understanding was its gearbox was quite narrow and it revved too much at cruising speeds. This was one of the reasons I went with the Husky, along with reliability and cost. I was also coming off a DRZ, so the Husky was already a nice step up, and as I'm not a full on racer type it is more than enough for me.

Anyway, I love the TE, but as it is being discontinued with no word of a replacement (a couple of BS concept bikes only) I suspect my next bike will be a 690R.

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Old 03-03-2012, 02:56 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by El Ponkin View Post
The Tractionator has had mix reviews and I think Motoz have developed the tyre over time as the latest ones are DOT approved so I think it depends how long ago that person tried one. I agree with earlier comments that they are slippy on wet tarmac but that is because they are a hard compound which makes them last for ever and tough as nails, swings and roundabouts
I'm just trying a tractionator for the first time. Done about 800km of dirt (mostly 4wd trails) and 2,000km of highway in the last two weeks. I like it off road, seemed to grip well on both gravel and mud. Haven't tested sand but looks like it'd hook up great there too.

But it's really bad on the road, it simply has no grip. Even on dry roads it spins up regularly and steps out a bit exiting corners, let alone in the wet where it spins up with only slight throttle. Road noise is also unbelievably bad, almost louder than the engine (with an FMF pipe).

I think my usual C-02 stonekings might actually have more grip than the tractionators on the road, and they definitely have more grip off road. The stonekings are also very hard compound and last forever.

They're also very heavy (mine are 140's). Switching from the stonekings to tractionators I noticed the bike felt less agile within a few hundred metres of the workshop.

My verdict is they're a very good tyre, if you can tolerate the road noise and extra weight. But there are better tyres available for the same price.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:03 AM   #25
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Better, I suspect so, but I haven't ridden one so don't know. Far better, not so sure, but it'd need to be as it cost a third more than the TE and at $$16K-$17K on the road felt like too much for a bike that would suffer the usual offroad abuse.

Power wise the 690 certainly has more, but in the dirt I'm not sure this would mean much as the TE has all you'd ever need and more. Onroad would be where you'd most notice the difference & the 690 would be a blast, although my understanding was its gearbox was quite narrow and it revved too much at cruising speeds.
The 690's gearbox is wide in 1st/2nd/3rd, but 4th/5th/6th are tight. I haven't been able to find a sprocket that suits me for single track riding and highway. But it also runs quite smooth even when revving a bit more than it should, and the clutch is light enough to ride it if you compromise in the other direction.

I'm with you, the TE probably was better value for money, if I knew more about them I may have bought one instead of my 690. Although now that it's discontinued that crosses it off my list, how long until parts are hard to find? I'm glad I got my 690. I only paid $12.5K for mine by the way, second hand with a couple thousand bucks in modifications and only 2,500km on the odo. And I've seen others sell for a better price than that.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:09 AM   #26
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im sorry but unfortunately no matter how hard i search i can only find the 15 page thread on the ktm 690 enduro. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
The megathread with over 1,000 pages got corrupted and was deleted/lost. There is a new one in the main Thumpers forum and another one here in the Australia board that doesn't get as many posts but is older and more pages than the Thumpers one.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:09 AM   #27
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Can some owners of a 690 enduro please let me know a few points here. I love the idea of this bike, but currently have two bikes, a TTR 250 for off road, and a 2009 ducati multistrada 1100 for road riding.

1) will this 690 enduro replace both of my bikes. Is there finally a bike that will do both off road and on road well, instead of compromising one or the other.

2) obviously it will out perform the TTR, and obviously it wont outperform the ducati speedwise, but will the 690 be able to tour? is there a new seat option that isnt shit like the OEM 690 one. Id like to be able to go for a ride for a few hours without wanting to get off due to being uncomfortable or the bike vibrating all the nuts and bolts off it. I would definately be wishing i hadnt got rid of the ducati if i couldnt go for a couple of hour ride on the tar on the 690 comfortably. Im not too concerned about the speed, i dont go more than the speed limit on the highway often anyway and im sure the 690 will be able to have overtaking power left in it at 110km/h anyway so thats not an issue. what is the top speed with standard gearing by the way?

i hope i havent asked rediculous questions here, but my main concern is i love my ducati, but dont ride it too often, probably once a month. so im thinking about cutting down the rego/insurance from two bikes to one.

VEEEEEEERY big decision.....

based upon what you want i would say the 690 is not for you. i have 5 registered bikes to cover all bases i did have a 690 r but it was doubling up with my 450 so i sold it and bought a triumph tiger 800 xc for the long trips very comfy, its good at everything but not great in the tight stuff thats where the 450 is the go.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:27 AM   #28
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2) obviously it will out perform the TTR
Yep! Sure will. Maintenance costs and initial purchase cost are about the only things the TTR has over the 690.

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Originally Posted by davecambo View Post
and obviously it wont outperform the ducati speedwise, but will the 690 be able to tour? is there a new seat option that isnt shit like the OEM 690 one. Id like to be able to go for a ride for a few hours without wanting to get off due to being uncomfortable or the bike vibrating all the nuts and bolts off it.
My longest stint on the 690 was 19 hours. It was an iron but ride, no stops except for fuel. I ate snacks out of the tank bag while riding.

There are several more comfortable aftermarket seats. I think KTM sells one, but I get chills even imagining what they probably charge for it. Personally I have an OEM seat plus a cushion I had made for me by a foam/rubber shop (waaaay cheaper than a new seat). I've been told the OEM seat is much better when you're riding hard, and for an hour or two of highway (or several hours of trail riding) I find it comfortable. I definitely need the cushion if I'm going to park my arse in one position for more than about 2 hours.

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I would definately be wishing i hadnt got rid of the ducati if i couldnt go for a couple of hour ride on the tar on the 690 comfortably.
That's a really tough call. I can sit on it for a couple of hours without any comfort issues, especially if with my cushion. But I'm also not very fussed about comfort.

I have mixed feelings about my windscreen. It cuts out the wind against my chest but also creates turbulence around my helmet. In the end, I'd rather ride without it but leave it there because my GPS is only partially weather resistant.

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Im not too concerned about the speed, i dont go more than the speed limit on the highway often anyway and im sure the 690 will be able to have overtaking power left in it at 110km/h anyway so thats not an issue. what is the top speed with standard gearing by the way?
Overtaking? It will lift the front wheel at 110. Sometimes accidentally while overtaking, so be careful. Everytime that's ever happened, I had a brief but violent headshake... always recovered itself instantly though.

I think the top speed is about 200 with stock gearing. That's what the SMR guys say they get on the racetrack. Mine is geared down and I redlined at 160 the only time I ever was able to test it (on private property), I still had plenty of power and it probably would have done 180 or so at the rev limiter. But geared down like mine is, anything over 110 does buzz a bit (stock mirrors vibrate too much to work properly, etc).

Sounds like the stock gearing would be perfect for you, but many riders add or remove a tooth on the front sprocket.

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Originally Posted by davecambo View Post
i hope i havent asked rediculous questions here, but my main concern is i love my ducati, but dont ride it too often, probably once a month. so im thinking about cutting down the rego/insurance from two bikes to one.
I think as a replacement for your TTR it's perfect. I had an XR250R and a 690 in the garage for more than a year, expecting to keep the 250 for trail riding. But as it turned out, the 690 is so much better even at single track I only rode the XR to work three times in a year, just to see if the thing still worked. So I found another home for the XR. The 690 isn't quite as nice as a 450 on the trails, but it's pretty damn close and definitely better than my XR250R, and probably your TTR as well.

Not so sure about replacing the ducati and you should take it for a test ride. Also, I was quoted about $800 for a set of 17" excel wheels (without brake disks or sprocket), you might wanna look into that if you like the ducati so much. Maybe test ride a 690 SMR, but buy an Enduro with a second set of wheels?
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:44 AM   #29
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Mate, ?.. in stock form it's a proper enduro bike.
No it's not. Proper enduro bikes are the EXC range weighing less than 114kgs dry. How many 690s are raced in competitive enduros?

The TE and 690R are the same class and are "large dirt bike/light adventure bike" because they can cover large miles relatively easily on rider and machine, unlike enduro bikes which will wear out over regular long distances and require much more maintenance in doing so.

The TE rides like a proper dirt bike as well, weight only being felt in the tightest of conditions and when manhandling the thing as required. Then it's no fun at all!

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Although now that it's discontinued that crosses it off my list, how long until parts are hard to find? I'm glad I got my 690. I only paid $12.5K for mine by the way, second hand with a couple thousand bucks in modifications and only 2,500km on the odo. And I've seen others sell for a better price than that.
The TE is still available in Australia, but no longer in the US, so writing's on the wall unfortunately. Am not worried about parts as company is BMW owned & they are required to maintain supply for many years after production ceases. I'll only keep mine 2 or 3 years, so orange will most likely be the next colour.

Good work re the price you paid- smart.
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Old 03-03-2012, 03:53 AM   #30
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Overtaking? It will lift the front wheel at 110. ....Sometimes accidentally while overtaking, so be careful. ?...I think the top speed is about 200 with stock gearing.

OK, I think I need to take one for a ride. The TE hammers to 130, but wouldn't go close to lifting at 110 or topping out to 180+.
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