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Old 04-11-2013, 03:02 PM   #226
jsonder
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photos

I never seem to get the camera propped level.

One of the joys of solo riding, I guess.

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Old 04-17-2013, 05:13 AM   #227
230Pilot
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Is a Rack required for the Giantloop Great Basin Bag?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ADVNCW View Post
Stock Trailwings in the photo above. Before riding the WABDR I got D606 front and rear. Rear D606 is fantastic. Front was real busy in gravel, when new, settled down with wear- however the D606 sticks to gravel, dirt, rock, asphalt. I like the D606 especially in the rear, somewhere on this forum I read of claims of the best ever front tire for gravel that I would try next time on front.
ADVNCW, I like your set up, do you need a rear rack for that giantloop bag, if so, which one are you using? I was considering the Cyclerack, but the Giantloop bag looks like it might keep the weight forward and lower.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:57 AM   #228
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Last year's great basin bag was on sale. Here it is on my NX250:





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Old 04-18-2013, 05:32 AM   #229
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Originally Posted by 230Pilot View Post
ADVNCW, I like your set up, do you need a rear rack for that giantloop bag, if so, which one are you using? I was considering the Cyclerack, but the Giantloop bag looks like it might keep the weight forward and lower.
I just bought a Giant Loop Coyote for my 230L. It does not need a rear rack, it sits where the passenger would sit. The rear sub-frame on these bikes are not rated for much weight, less then 15 pounds. I'm outfitting mine to do the "Shadow of the Rockies" trail next month. I was going to use a rear rack and saddle bags but the sub-frame looked fragile for the weight I was going to put on it, (gear and extra fuel). The GL Coyote bag keeps the weight forward off the rack area. When I get back, I'm going to re-enforce the the sub frame so that it is useful for the type of riding and equiptment I carry.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:47 AM   #230
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Took the 230L out for a ride yesterday. first one of the season. Over the winter i swapped the rubber for Dunlop 606's and went to a 102 link chain and 42T Rear. changed the fork fluid, added an extra centimeter.

What a difference! had it plowing through snow up to the skidplate. Another few weeks should see it packing a bear out of the back-country.

now to do something about that spongy rear shock....
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:08 AM   #231
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DR Don, keep us posted about your ride. Curious minds.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:40 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amphibious View Post

now to do something about that spongy rear shock....
be sure to post up if you find something that will fit, I'd be happy with a heavier spring so I could back off on the pre-load.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:56 PM   #233
SixtyAte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amphibious View Post
Took the 230L out for a ride yesterday. first one of the season. Over the winter i swapped the rubber for Dunlop 606's and went to a 102 link chain and 42T Rear. changed the fork fluid, added an extra centimeter.

What a difference! had it plowing through snow up to the skidplate. Another few weeks should see it packing a bear out of the back-country.

now to do something about that spongy rear shock....
I am getting ready to change to 42t and 102 link. Which sprockets and chain did you go with? Are you happy with your choices.
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:38 AM   #234
sw3dl1
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DR Don, keep us posted about your ride. Curious minds.
I will. We leave on May 19f rom Phoenix and will ride secondary roads and dirt to Alpine, AZ. The next day to SilverCity, NM and to a starting point on the trail.
The trail is on the east side of the White Sands Missle Range, we still trying to determine the exact route from Silver City to the other side of the Range with out encountering heavy or Interstate traffic.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:09 PM   #235
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What happens when you habitually run more than 20# isn't pretty. This was at ~ 8800 miles:




On the other hand, the welding wasn't that difficult.

Which rack were you using when the frame broke? I am still debating which one to buy and have noticed that both the oem honda rack and Cyclerack bolt on differently than the xrs only or borrego.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:57 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230Pilot View Post
Which rack were you using when the frame broke? I am still debating which one to buy and have noticed that both the oem honda rack and Cyclerack bolt on differently than the xrs only or borrego.
The cycle rack version which also bolts to the frame.

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Old 04-21-2013, 04:19 PM   #237
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Thanks jsonder,

I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:45 PM   #238
jsonder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 230Pilot View Post
Thanks jsonder,

I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?
I'm impressed with the Great Basin bag that I bought for touring/camping. It would be used with my street bike, the '89 enduro.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:16 AM   #239
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Originally Posted by 230Pilot View Post
Thanks jsonder,

I am still really debating which rack to buy, I was really leaning towards the Cyclerack, but feel I will be tempted to overload it. I am thinking I should buy the honda rack and then the giant loop u shaped bags. What do you think?
I'm using this exact set up with a Wolfman tank bag. I bought a RotoPak one gallon fuel pack and have it mounted to the rear Honda rack. Gasoline weighs about 7 puunds per gallon, so I estimated the whole set up on the rear rack is way less then 10 pounds. I figure if I need more space I'll get a set of Wolfman Tank Panniers, but I don't think ot will be necessary.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:21 PM   #240
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brakes question,, sorry for hijacking

I have an 08 230L that i got used (242 miles, now 4000). it is now my turn to change my rear brake pas and the ones I ordered off the interwebs are too thick, though it is possible that im not depressing the brake caliper piston enough, its depresses easily with a screwdriver and feels like it bottoms out. tried to make it go that last bit with a c-clap to no avail. so my question is: when yall go to change pads, how far should the piston depress. should it be flush or does ~1/8-1/16 of an inch of the piston remain exposed.

http://www.sixity.com/2008-2011-hond...f230l-f-r.html

these are the pads i got, should fit, but dont. i need mere hairs for clearance.

what am i forgetting or did i just end up getting brakes that dont work like a doof

thanks to whom ever responds for your input
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