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Old 02-08-2009, 09:51 AM   #46
foobar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Oakland
Oddometer: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner
You should be able to remove the rear wheel without having to reset chain tension every time, no? Pull the adjuster block off one side and knock the axle out the far side enough to slide the axle forward. Other bikes I have there's enough slack by the time the axle hits the adjuster screw that you can slip the chain off. (It took me a few times to figure that out mind you...)
I had the same thought while I was doing it but had already loosened things up per the Owners Manual. At a minimum, you should note the markings in a notebook or with a pencil on the guide so you know where it was before removal (I had that thought at about same time - AFTER loosening).

Quote:
Originally Posted by MonsterJ kkug had a great idea here:
[URL="http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428807"
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428807[/url]

I'm gonna whittle me one up soon.
Thanks for the link - looks perfect.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:11 PM   #47
RedHawk47
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Berthoud, CO
Oddometer: 364
tire changing

Quote:
Originally Posted by foobar
- Tire Removal/Installation - HARD. REALLY HARD (this was full tire removal; opening up one side for tube removal/repair would be easier).

I've read all the various tire removal threads, etc, and paid attention to the debates over brute strength vs technique. Clearly technique is important but I found that in at least one instance (getting the second edge of tire off of rim) I had to resort to force heavily seasoned with a LOT of swearing.
An important step in the processes that most tire changing instruction get backwards.
1. Start the tire removal process at the valve stem (or the rim lock if it has one)
2. Finish the tire installation process at the valve stem.
The reason for doing it this way is so the bead can drop into the center well of the rim and have maximum slack. If the valve stem is in the way...
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:01 AM   #48
Travlr
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Southern Alberta
Oddometer: 85
other care package items

Before this thread turns into a tire changing lesson. Some other care package items it have carried over the years in whatever bike I was riding at the time:

1. Assortment of zip ties.
2. Spare fuses.
3. Assorment of nuts and bolts (bike specific).
4. Small Rag (usually wrapped around the tools). Nice not to put greasy hands into your riding gloves.
5. Electrical tape, and duct tape on long trips.
These may be more general kit items and not so F8 specific, but sometimes the obvious gets overlooked.

I heard about the key ring issue and thought that it could be changed on the road?? maybe not so easy as first thought.

Also, the sacrificial plastic radiator holder/mount. It is relatively cheap$ and it designed to break away in a crash to help save the rad from damage. But, once it is broken, it may be hard to rig up some way to support the rad. Sooo, the actual replacement part will be part of my kit.
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:09 PM   #49
Dert Gerl
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Downtown Phoenix
Oddometer: 204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Travlr
Before this thread turns into a tire changing lesson. Some other care package items it have carried over the years in whatever bike I was riding at the time:

1. Assortment of zip ties.
2. Spare fuses.
3. Assorment of nuts and bolts (bike specific).
4. Small Rag (usually wrapped around the tools). Nice not to put greasy hands into your riding gloves.
5. Electrical tape, and duct tape on long trips.
These may be more general kit items and not so F8 specific, but sometimes the obvious gets overlooked.

I heard about the key ring issue and thought that it could be changed on the road?? maybe not so easy as first thought.

Also, the sacrificial plastic radiator holder/mount. It is relatively cheap$ and it designed to break away in a crash to help save the rad from damage. But, once it is broken, it may be hard to rig up some way to support the rad. Sooo, the actual replacement part will be part of my kit.
In regard to the replacement plastic radiator bracket ... it's not really a trail side repair. I just replaced mine a week or so ago and you have to drill out the rivets and put new ones in. You also have to bend the fins apart to get the back side of the old rivet out of the way for the new one. The radiator is pretty ugly when it's all said and done, but it still holds water.

I think it's safe to say that some safety wire or creative zip tie engineering will get you home if you break the mounts and are still holding water, which was the case with mine. I didn't even know I had broken the mounts until I washed it the next day. Everything stayed in place for the most part.

BTW ... I had to wait for mine to come from Germany when I ordered it because there were none in the US so I ordered 4 extra. I don't know if that's still the case. They're at my Farkle Fab site if anyone needs one in a pinch.
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Old 02-10-2009, 03:33 PM   #50
itsatdm
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Nor Ca.
Oddometer: 4,261
A good mod that I think to make, is a 2 prong electric plug connected directly to the battery using heavy gauge wire. Mine exits near the steering head and I use it for the GPS, electric vest, airpump, margurita mixer, etc, as needed. Most importanly a set of jumper cables with like wire and plug along with alligator clips.
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