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Old 01-31-2009, 09:58 AM   #1
Cummo OP
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How to service MD Roadbook?

I am in the process or preparing my bike for the Tunisia Rally in April and want to service my road book, it needs new belts and one of the roller bars vibrates like crazy, the vibration is okay but its one of those things you really hear on the last stage!!

Anyone have any idea how to service it?
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:48 AM   #2
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Hey Cummo,


I've serviced several MD roadbooks before, so I might be able to give you a hand...
The belt drives are standard seal rings. They can be bought at any general hardware store. Just remove them, and take them with you to the store and find ones a tad smaller in circumference (better smaller than bigger!).

Which roller bars were you exactly referring to? The ones which have turning knobs on the left-hand side of the RB? Or the one on the very top where to paper slides over? Or the motor driven one?

What you might also want to do is:
- Take apart the motor, clean it from dirt and sand, and grease it up again
- Roughen up the motor driven roll with the help of a lathe, as these tend to lose grip over time

What you must remember is, that the 2 knobs have 2 different threads!!!! The bottom one is a standard right-turn-to-tighten thread. Top one a left-turn-to-tighten!!!
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schattat screwed with this post 01-31-2009 at 10:55 AM
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Old 01-31-2009, 04:06 PM   #3
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You can buy a spares kit from MD which has the belts and bushes etc.
I carry a kit in my jacket pocket in case something breaks.
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:15 AM   #4
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Thanks for the reply guys.

Basically, I dont know where to start to get the drive bars out, firstly to replace belts and secondly to renew the nylon bush that rattles.

Schattat, its the drive bars that I have no idea about, do you drive them out with a drift/ How to you move the paper guides?

Starting at scratch on this one!!
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Old 02-01-2009, 02:47 AM   #5
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Hey Cummo,

First of all, don't use any violence at all!!
Everything can be taken apart with a few tricks

To start, you'll need to remove all 8 of the nylon caps around the RB. To do so, get a sharp blade and just jab it underneath them and slowly lever them out of the aluminum casing.

Next up is removing the drive shaft. You'll have to turn the motor (with the help of a 12V power supply), so that you have access to the little allen grub screw, which is located on the far right hand side of the RB. Just right of the rubber ring. Simply loosen it a bit, but don't actually remove it from the shaft

Now that's done, you should be able to move the drive shaft from side to side a bit. Since the nylon cap on the left hand side is gone, you should be able to push the drive shaft a bit out of the RB casing. You may use a little force here and push against the rubber grip on the shaft. After having pushed the shaft out of the casing on the left hand side, you should be able to lift it up out of the casing on the right hand side. Remember to remove the rubber rings of the rollers on the shaft!

Next up are the other 2 shafts, with the turning knobs.
As I mentioned in my previous post they both have 2 different threads. Grab a pair of pliars and grab hold of one of the 2 shafts. If you're doing the bottom one, you'll have to turn the knob counter-clockwise (unscrewing it). If it's the top one, you have to turn it clockwise, also unscrewing it as it's a left hand thread. After removing the knobs, just push the shaft to the left, and lift it up on the other side.

To remove the motor, you see that there are 3 flat head screws holding it to the case. Simply remove them, and remove the motor.

Also, you'll notice that the drive shaft has 2 so called "sprag clutches" on it, where the belt drives sit on. Be careful not to swap them around, as they are supposed to only turn in 1 direction, and block in the other!!!

The best thing to do to clean the parts (sprag clutches, nylon parts, knobs), is to get a small cup and fill it up with some sort of cleaning/grease-killing substance, such as petrol. Let the parts sit there for about 30mins, take them out and clean them off with a clean cloth. The sprag clutches should get a couple of drops of oil. When turning them on the shaft you may notice a bit of crackling. This comes from the the little dirt/sand that's still in the part. Oil/grease will help remove this effect!


I hope I was able to give you enough info to get you started. In case you get stuck somewhere, just write back, mate!
Good luck
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:12 AM   #6
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md

where do you get the MD kits from?
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallye
where do you get the MD kits from?

I know www.rallymanagementservices.com carries them.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:59 AM   #8
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Rebuild

I Have just purchased a few bits and pieces from Charlie at Panamerica. I asked Charlie if MD make a rebuild kit and he said they don't make such a kit...
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Old 02-01-2009, 12:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.T
I Have just purchased a few bits and pieces from Charlie at Panamerica. I asked Charlie if MD make a rebuild kit and he said they don't make such a kit...

seet the reply just above yours??? whos telling who what??

it seems they do, Mr Packmule seems to think they do !!!
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallye
seet the reply just above yours??? whos telling who what??

it seems they do, Mr Packmule seems to think they do !!!


It may be that the "kits" are actually put together by Charlie and Robb, not necessarily sourced from MD. In any case, they have stuff to fix 'em.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:54 PM   #11
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I have also got a spares kit from Vince Strang, this has all the bits you need to refurbish an MD, the hard part is if the alloy hole is flogged out due to vibration and it is bigger than the plastic bushs etc

For a major rallye (eg Dakar) I would sell the old one and buy new ones to be sure, the resale value is good and the drop in value similar to what you pay to get bits to refurbish one
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Old 02-02-2009, 04:42 AM   #12
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Schattat,

Thanks a million buddy, had it in pieces last night, very easy....once you know how.

Appreciate your help.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:59 AM   #13
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Next step.

So the RB out of the way, I am well into the next steps. I have moved on from here with the engine being rebuilt from the box up, suspension at the front serviced and the rear new spring and valves.

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...C/DSC04231.jpg

Does anyone know how to clean these?

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...C/DSC04240.jpg

I can clean with a brush...but hey if there is an easier way....please.
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummo
Schattat,

Thanks a million buddy, had it in pieces last night, very easy....once you know how.

Appreciate your help.
No worries mate!!
If you need any futher help with it, or anything else, you know how to reach me
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Old 02-17-2009, 03:09 PM   #15
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Just for information guys, after searching long and hard I found the N.A. distributor for the manufacturer of the MD roadbook motors.

The motors are made by Buhler in Germany and are sold in the U.S. by a distributor out of North Carolina. After being quoted a price of about $250 for a new motor from MD, the same motor direct from the distributor was $47 and in stock. Shipped same day.

I didn't think they'd deal with me direct, but they were easy to work with and sent me my single unit order with no problems.

Also, going this route I had the option of about 4 different RPM speeds in case you ever wanted your roadbook to scroll faster or slower.

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