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Old 02-06-2009, 12:25 AM   #31
DRjoe OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhach
I take it you do your own aluminum welding? I've never seen a back rack like the one on your bike. I need somting like that to keep me from destroying my turn signals everytime I crash. I also like the cage that you built around your from sprocket.
yea i can weld alloy with a mig, generally its not pretty but its strong.

The rack works really well its very light but very strong and it protects the blinkers and rear light.
I have a extra bit that clamps on so that i can carry a gearsack and my camping gear.
and also a bit that clamps on to hold my surf board.
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:09 AM   #32
DRjoe OP
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I've loaded the photos on to a different web album, let me know if it works.
intake ports. the port on the left side has not been done. you can see the big ledge just before the valve seat insert, the right side had a worse ledge




almost finished, you can still see a ledge a in the left side port


lots of room for improvement
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Old 02-08-2009, 12:22 AM   #33
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the exhaust valve seat inserts taper in after the actual valve seat. and the port on the left side is very restricted where it turns to meet the right port.


measurement taken at top of the valve seat


measurement taken at the bottom of the valve seat insert


A few picks of the unfinished bash plate tank





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Old 02-08-2009, 01:29 AM   #34
Mezo
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Laugh Woo Hooo

Thats better, pictures with words.

That bash plate, hollow ? for water Joe ?

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Old 02-08-2009, 02:02 AM   #35
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It was for 11L of fuel but i was told i was going to blow myself up so i added a tool box and the rest will be aprox 9L water tank.
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:06 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
It was for 11L of fuel but i was told i was going to blow myself up so i added a tool box and the rest will be aprox 9L water tank.
Thats what i was wondering bieng so close to that pipe, still you will be able to have a nice cup tea with on tap hot water.

I can see the work gone in to that, and of course you realise every man & his dog is going to ask you to make them one, cant wait to see the fairing if the skid-tank is anything to go by.

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Old 02-08-2009, 02:11 AM   #37
DRjoe OP
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i'll make any one any thing if they pay me enough.
The blood sweat and tears that went into that tank would probably put the price around the $3000 mark plus $2000 p&p.
any takers
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Old 02-11-2009, 12:27 AM   #38
DRjoe OP
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the new parts arrived to day so its going to be a long weekend to finish the engine
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Old 02-11-2009, 04:22 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
i'll make any one any thing if they pay me enough.
The blood sweat and tears that went into that tank would probably put the price around the $3000 mark plus $2000 p&p.
any takers
haha, for that i'd have a REAL nice ride
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Old 02-22-2009, 03:00 AM   #40
DRjoe OP
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finaly took the old motor out

The old dr has been officially retired from service.

Because the case on the new motor is cracked i'm going to use the cases from the old engine.
The motor from the yellow bike came out pretty easy but this one put up a fight, it got stuck coming out several times.


it finaly came out after a few scraped nuckles

this must have been what was making the noise in third gear.


this is the dog clutch on one of the gears showing what 100,000km will do to a gearbox.


the hard facing was coming of some of the gears aswell.
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Old 02-22-2009, 11:54 AM   #41
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
The motor from the yellow bike came out pretty easy but this one put up a fight, it got stuck coming out several times.
If you undo the front bottom(ish) case bolt it comes out a lot more easily.
They go in more easily that they come out too.

Now that's a worn set of gears.
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Old 05-01-2009, 03:22 AM   #42
DRjoe OP
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Sorry for the lack of posts guys.

I finished the motor and i was very disapointing with how much power it was kicking out so i was put off the project for a while.

I rode the bike around for a while wondering why it was lacking power when all other reports say that the hi-comp piston makes a big difference.
After seeing a picture of a je hi comp piston I have come to the conclusion that the piston I got from the bike shop is not a lot different from the stock (the je is flat on top and my piston has a concave like the original).

any way whilst i was thinking about the next plan of attack the head gasket started leaking this has given me the excuse i need to get the head skimmed and raise the compression to about 10.5 to 1.

here's a few questions for you very helpful people.

does anyone know if i will have to change my ignition timing to suit and if so by how much?

is there a programmable icu available for the dr?

is it possible to skim a head on a lathe or do you need a mill?

and why is the sky blue?

hope there are still people watching this thread as your input is very welcome.

cheers

Joe
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Old 05-01-2009, 04:35 AM   #43
DRjoe OP
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I have thought of another question.

Would a tuned air box make a difference to the dr?
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:02 AM   #44
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In my limited knowledge, 10.5-1 should just fine with no other modification needed. You can get into the 11+ to 1 range before you have to worry about ignition timing and pinging.

As far as how to do it. A mill is the best way. It must be very precisely done, or else you're looking for trouble.
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Old 05-01-2009, 08:20 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe
and why is the sky blue?
The blue color of the sky is due to Rayleigh scattering. As light moves through the atmosphere, most of the longer wavelengths pass straight through. Little of the red, orange and yellow light is affected by the air.

Of course were all still here, we just been waiting for you to come back


No you cant skim a head in a lathe (not that one anyhow) gotta be done on a mill, John Boston is doing my head as we speak, porting, re-angle valve, skim etc. have a look here joe

Im about to do a build myself http://lightwire.net.au/mezo-dr650-rebuild.html

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