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Old 10-22-2012, 02:21 AM   #1381
timg
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Bluhduh Indicators not working

Hi,

I've just purchased a 2005 XR250 similar to this one;



One problem, when I got it home the front indicators glow all the time when the key is on or the bike is running. When the indicator is turned on it blinks like normal but the other front indicator just glows and vice versa.

The rear ones work ok. I didn't notice this when I looked at and rode the bike before purchase, possibly because is was a bright sunny day, as opposed to my dingy garage today. Hate it when that happens

I thought the obvious thing might be some sort of short or tracking in the switch block between the head light switch and the indicator switch so pulled the block apart but nothing to be seen and with the block apart I still get the 'glow'.

Anybody come across this before? Just thought I'd ask before starting to trace and isolate the wiring incase someone has had the same before knows exactly where to start looking....

Looking forward to getting out for a ....
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:44 AM   #1382
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My TW200's indicators do the same thing. I think it's a safety feature.
Go figure.
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:29 PM   #1383
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I'm building a "Cheap Skate D/S Minimalist Touring/Woods XR250 for a Full Size Rider"

Here's the link. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...3#post19863173


The goal is a $1000.00 budget total after selling the exta parts listed and other goodies... So far so good...


It has a 39" seat height and 22.5" from the pegs to the seat. It's meant for comfort with a 8" wide seating area.

With a 36" inseam I can still flat foot it with a slight knee bend.


It's based on a plated '87 XR250R with a fresh XR250L engine built with R cam. The wide ratio 250L 4-6th gears with a 14/46 final is the gearing plan.

It will use the 250R carb and header with a XL600R 4" SuperTrapp for now. A 34mm Mikuni flat slide will probably be done when money permits.


Other mods being done:


XRL swingarm and cush drive rear 2.15" wide disc brake wheel.

'99 CR500 46mm KYB inverted front end and wheel with a billet upper triple clamp.

XR250L side panels

XR650L 4.0 gal tank and tall soft "custom cut" XR600R seat

XR250L spring on a XR250R shock with a XR650L lower link.

XR250R flywheel, Ricky stator with a 12 volt AC and a 12 volt DC lighting DS conversion.


Here's a picture of it a few weeks ago.




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Old 10-25-2012, 06:59 PM   #1384
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Can any of you guys tell me the fuel screw setting for my 2000 . I removed the snorkel , installed a 135 main ,and removed the muffler baffle . The bike seems to have a flat spot just off the bottom , warming it up and raising the idle helped , but maybe I am missing something . I dont have intimate knowledge of these bikes , yet . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-25-2012, 07:10 PM   #1385
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A) MentalGuru, that's a pretty sweet setup for $1,000. I'm guessing that is the upgrades and doesn't include the bike, but either way it's going to be a great trail eater when you're done. What's the purpose of the rear shock/dogbone setup? Why an XR250L spring and XR650 dogbone? Is it height or performance?

B) Stanimal, try all the way in and then out one and a half turns. Fiddle with it from there and write down where you end up.My $.02 anyway.


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Old 10-26-2012, 03:35 AM   #1386
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One problem, when I got it home the front indicators glow all the time when the key is on or the bike is running. When the indicator is turned on it blinks like normal but the other front indicator just glows and vice versa.

The rear ones work ok. I didn't notice this when I looked at and rode the bike before purchase, possibly because is was a bright sunny day, as opposed to my dingy garage today. Hate it when that happens

I thought the obvious thing might be some sort of short or tracking in the switch block between the head light switch and the indicator switch so pulled the block apart but nothing to be seen and with the block apart I still get the 'glow'.
.[/QUOTE]


it's an american thing, those 'glowing' indicators work like clearance lights on a truck. my 04 XR250 never did it. if that's the case, buy an aussie switch block, and relay, and indicators, there should only be 2 wires coming out of each indicator, green is earth, other colours (blue, pink, brown etc) are power wires (Forget which one goes where). rock solid little bikes, but for the OP, in regards to the oil change, look up 'XR600 Oil Change' on youtube, there's a big dark fella (Henry i think his name is), does a full oil change and tappet check on his XR600L, there's a little bolt underneath the engine, shifter side, just above the frame, that needs to be drained aswell. watch the Video and you'll see wot i mean.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:39 AM   #1387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STANIMAL View Post
Can any of you guys tell me the fuel screw setting for my 2000 . I removed the snorkel , installed a 135 main ,and removed the muffler baffle . The bike seems to have a flat spot just off the bottom , warming it up and raising the idle helped , but maybe I am missing something . I dont have intimate knowledge of these bikes , yet . Any help would be greatly appreciated.

leave the fuel screw alone, did you do the main and slow jet as well? look up 'Scraperslider' on youtube, there's another mod that Gordon does on his 250, called the 'sparkplug bolt mod'...stainless steel bolt, cut the head off, pull the sparkplug boot off (the yellow one), inside there's a screw, undo it, out will come a spring (dont lose it) and a resistor, throw the resistor over ya shoulder, and place said stainless steel bolt shank in- 16.18mm long, and 6mm diameter. will give better spark, and less bogging, i tend to go 2.5turns out of the idle screw (the big black one on the carby) which helps alot, my old girl is pretty loud however, with a top end rebuild and stage I cam she goes alright!
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:23 AM   #1388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STANIMAL View Post
Can any of you guys tell me the fuel screw setting for my 2000 . I removed the snorkel , installed a 135 main ,and removed the muffler baffle . The bike seems to have a flat spot just off the bottom , warming it up and raising the idle helped , but maybe I am missing something . I dont have intimate knowledge of these bikes , yet . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Get it warmed up and turn your idle back down. Then slowly turn out the fuel screw until the idle increases. Turn it back in until it starts to stumble again, then go back out a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Rev the engine a few times and notice if the engine hangs at higher revs or drops back down quickly. If it hangs, turn the fuel screw out a bit until the idle drops back down nice and smooth. It shouldn't drop below normal idle speed either (that indicates it's too rich, turn the fuel screw back in if that happens). Once you're happy with the adjustment, shut it off and turn the fuel screw all the way in, counting the turns. If it's 2.5-3 turns out or more, go up one size on your pilot jet, set the fuel screw to 1.75 turns out (factory spec) and repeat the process. If not, turn it back out the counted number of turns and you're good to go.

A flat spot off idle could also indicate that your needle is too low. Once you get the idle mixture dialed in, if the flat spot is still there, try dropping the needle clip down one notch (raising the needle).
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:17 AM   #1389
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Thanks guys ^^^^^^^^
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:30 PM   #1390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_dog View Post
it's an american thing, those 'glowing' indicators work like clearance lights on a truck. my 04 XR250 never did it. if that's the case, buy an aussie switch block, and relay, and indicators, there should only be 2 wires coming out of each indicator, green is earth, other colours (blue, pink, brown etc) are power wires
Thanks Red Dog
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:28 PM   #1391
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Thanks guys ^^^^^^^^
Let us know the results. It's good info to add to the collective knowledge.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:06 PM   #1392
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Can anyone point me to a comparison between the XR250R and CRF230F? I rode an XR250R briefly, and all i can remember is that it was a bitch to kick-start, but I suspect it just wasn't well-sorted. I rode a CRF230F for several hours, and thought it was a hoot.

Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:08 PM   #1393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
Can anyone point me to a comparison between the XR250R and CRF230F? I rode an XR250R briefly, and all i can remember is that it was a bitch to kick-start, but I suspect it just wasn't well-sorted. I rode a CRF230F for several hours, and thought it was a hoot.

Thanks!
If you're considering the CRF, I'd opt for the CRF250L. FI, water cooled, and very affordable. Not as trail worthy in my opinion as the XR but still a fun bike.
Much depends on your intended purpose.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:22 PM   #1394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozarkrider View Post
If you're considering the CRF, I'd opt for the CRF250L. FI, water cooled, and very affordable. Not as trail worthy in my opinion as the XR but still a fun bike.
Much depends on your intended purpose.
The new CRF250L looks like a fine bike, but it's way too heavy for off-road. I have a WR250R, so no need for the "L".

I want a cheap reliable trail bike that weighs a lot less than the WRR, without turn signals, etc.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:28 PM   #1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jon_l View Post
The new CRF250L looks like a fine bike, but it's way too heavy for off-road. I have a WR250R, so no need for the "L".

I want a cheap reliable trail bike that weighs a lot less than the WRR, without turn signals, etc.
The XR's yer boy then. Mine generally starts from cold within 5 kicks. We'll see how it does after the new top end job.
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