ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Road warriors
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-22-2015, 01:27 PM   #1
Kidder OP
Poser
 
Kidder's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: DFW, TX, USA
Oddometer: 514
Minimum Octane Requirement - 2015 Versys 650

Can any owners of the new 15 Versys 650 tell me the minimum octane requirement? Someone was speculating on another forum that it will require minimum 91. So, anyone with a new ABS out there care to share, please?
__________________
Currently bikeless.
15 Versys 650 LT on order - impatiently waiting
Kidder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 01:35 PM   #2
k-moe
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Oddometer: 2,644
Try aking here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1021659
__________________
Mixing metaphors is like killing two birds with a dog that won't hunt.
k-moe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2015, 01:46 PM   #3
Kidder OP
Poser
 
Kidder's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: DFW, TX, USA
Oddometer: 514
Never mind. Found the manual here: http://www.kawasaki-techinfo.net/sho...8&lang_code=EN

87 is minimum
__________________
Currently bikeless.
15 Versys 650 LT on order - impatiently waiting
Kidder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 05:05 PM   #4
dddd
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Montreal, Canada
Oddometer: 475
little note on the kawa twin engine: put 87 for sure, not 89 nor 91 and avoid ethanol.

Why?

Because of possible vapor lock....

What!? on a fuel injection?

Yes. It happened to me in Utah.

If you ride slow and/or in high temps like 100F+, the poor venting of the fuel line behind the head can cause it to get really warm, to the boiling point.

octane and ethanol both have higher vapor pressure, thus boil at lower temperature. That time I gad 87+ethanol which was in fact 89+ethanol (different rating method).

To workaround the problem, stay off the highway to keep rpm low in 6th gear, like 45mph, in the wind; DON'T try to cool by stopping on side of road unless it is over an hour and in the shade, otherwise the engine heat will transfer even more to the EFI distribution line. Circulating cool gas is better. Perhaps refilling more often can help mix cooler gas from underground.

Another trick (perhaps the only trivial one) is to turn ignition off, then back on: this will prime the fuel line pressure and may clear vapor bubbles for a little while.

I will get the fuel pump checked however (100'000km), the embedded fuel filter may be dirty or the pump worn and lowering the pressure in the line. Also check the gas cap to ensure it can take air from the one-way valve (could build vacuum otherwise which would fight the pump). Keep radiator clean too, to ensure better cooling. Anything that helps...

If this ever happens again, I will try to wrap my black tank with a wet white cloth, to cool the gas... If I have running water, maybe soak the engine a bit... but I fear cracking the engine...

Anyhow, hope these tips can help.
dddd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 09:15 PM   #5
k-moe
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Oddometer: 2,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by dddd View Post
little note on the kawa twin engine: put 87 for sure, not 89 nor 91 and avoid ethanol.

Why?

Because of possible vapor lock....

What!? on a fuel injection?

Yes. It happened to me in Utah.

If you ride slow and/or in high temps like 100F+, the poor venting of the fuel line behind the head can cause it to get really warm, to the boiling point.

octane and ethanol both have higher vapor pressure, thus boil at lower temperature. That time I gad 87+ethanol which was in fact 89+ethanol (different rating method).

To workaround the problem, stay off the highway to keep rpm low in 6th gear, like 45mph, in the wind; DON'T try to cool by stopping on side of road unless it is over an hour and in the shade, otherwise the engine heat will transfer even more to the EFI distribution line. Circulating cool gas is better. Perhaps refilling more often can help mix cooler gas from underground.

Another trick (perhaps the only trivial one) is to turn ignition off, then back on: this will prime the fuel line pressure and may clear vapor bubbles for a little while.

I will get the fuel pump checked however (100'000km), the embedded fuel filter may be dirty or the pump worn and lowering the pressure in the line. Also check the gas cap to ensure it can take air from the one-way valve (could build vacuum otherwise which would fight the pump). Keep radiator clean too, to ensure better cooling. Anything that helps...

If this ever happens again, I will try to wrap my black tank with a wet white cloth, to cool the gas... If I have running water, maybe soak the engine a bit... but I fear cracking the engine...

Anyhow, hope these tips can help.
Those are the symptoms of a faulty fuel pump (due to a manufacturing error). Octane dosen't work the way that you think it does. Octane boosters have nearly 0 effect on the boiling point of gasoline because they are a very small part of total volume of fuel.
__________________
Mixing metaphors is like killing two birds with a dog that won't hunt.
k-moe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 09:43 PM   #6
DudeClone
Beastly Adventurer
 
DudeClone's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Location: here, there, everywhere
Oddometer: 1,795
it runs on water, no worries!
__________________
bikes
DudeClone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2015, 04:07 PM   #7
dddd
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Montreal, Canada
Oddometer: 475
Quote:
Originally Posted by k-moe View Post
Those are the symptoms of a faulty fuel pump (due to a manufacturing error). Octane dosen't work the way that you think it does. Octane boosters have nearly 0 effect on the boiling point of gasoline because they are a very small part of total volume of fuel.
Nearly 0, not 0. But yes, mathematically, octane has less effect on boiling point than 10% ethanol, which was my point. Rest assured that I know the distinction between vapor pressure (boiling) and ignition (combustion), if that was your concern.

All right, to the garage! (but I don't think this was a manufacturing error... it expect wear and filter clogging).
dddd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2015