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Old 02-08-2009, 12:59 PM   #16
Infracaninophile OP
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Documentation

Okay, I did warn you. I'm obsessive.

Most of the bikes I buy are used. It is always great if the person I bought them from has the maintenance history or a log or both. Or, if they are the sole owner I pick their brain and document it. I always keep a maintenance log on a bike I am going to keep for a while.

On this project, as it will be a long-term project, I want to document all of my actions. So a quick trip to Staples (US based office supply store) for some notebooks and dividers and such to get organized. I then created 5 notebooks to start that I will track my work in. In addition to this thread and all the pics I place on my smugmug account.

A copy of the BMW R80GS repair manual. I found this online. Still looking to obtain a real copy.





My own maintenance log. I will log date, mileage, what I did, problems encountered, etc.. in here. This is handy for reminding yourself when oil changes and tires were done and such. It's just a blank book right now.




I'll keep all receipts and such in here so that when my GS reaches the $100K in upgrades I can be proud of myself.




Picture goes here. I'll keep all pics of this project on Smugmug and will use this book as a "Hey, Look at Me" memorial.




Technical articles goes here. Things from the airheads.org, here, and any other place I can find information on things for my bike. An example page is shown.






All of them on end where I labeled the ends.




I have not yet figured out how to snap a copy of an AdvRider thread into a format that I can save as a document. When I do, I'll snag them and print them off as well. Many many of the threads here on seals, forks, etc.. are all very important to me. Does anyone know how to do this?



Tom
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:31 PM   #17
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Maintenance - Prioritizing

Okay, here is where I'd really welcome some input. My plan is to start doing a basic maintenance to the bike and then go from there into areas that seem to need attention right now.

Here's what I've come up with:

Phase One - Basic Maintenance

1. Fluid changes - Freshen Final Drive, Transmission, and Engine oil and filter.

2. Valve adjustment - Ensure the valves are in spec. Adjust as needed.

3. Brakes - Check front pads, freshen fluid. Check/ Adjust rear shoes.

4. Forks - Open 'em up. Replace fork oil. Check springs. Maybe install new Progressive springs or Race Tech emulator or both. Something clanks in the front end.

5. Carbs - Rebuild carbs completely including new floats, jets, needles etc.. I will learn to do this myself. I have some parts here and more on order.

6. Replace throttle and choke cables as necessary.

7. Sync Carbs.

8. Timing? Is there any timing on this bike to check or adjust? I need to learn about this.

Thanks,

Tom
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Old 02-08-2009, 01:58 PM   #18
bgoodsoil
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underneath the tank you'll find all sortsa electrical pluggie things. Unplug 'em all, liberally apply dielectric grease(cleaning connections with sandpaper if they need it), then replug. I took a sharpie marker and wrote 'starter' on the starter relay, 'flasher' on the turn signal flasher, 'headlight' on the headlight relay. I'm sure you'll P-Touch labels or something like that.

Steering head bearings have probably never been touched--probably don't need to be either, but worth putting on a list somewhere for inspection. Rubber bits go bad with years even on a low mileage bike--off the top of my head I remember having problems with pushrod seals, rear main seal, tranny seal and the driveshaft boot. I've heard intake boots can cause problems but mine were okay.

Removing the smog plumbing probably shaved a few pounds off my bike. A lot of folks also route the crankcase vent overboard.

Decoking the heads while you do the pushrods is a good idea. Spray with Simple Green and wipe with a green pad. Let the simple green do the work. Your cylinders will go from cruddy blackness to gleaming German engineering.

Spin off the exhaust nuts and coat the threads with hightemp antisieze. Add that to your 'yearly' maintenance schedule too.

If you really wanna be anal (and I know you do!) pull your pistons and conrods and blance them all to within .01 of a gram.

Heat sink compound behind diode board(or Enduralst)

Check speedo boot for water intrusion.

Grease cam in throttle--if that thing break you're hosed.

All stuff I learned on this forum.
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:02 PM   #19
monzablue
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What's the source for that race tech article?? I need to do that mod. . .
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:09 PM   #20
SUVslayer
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The pushrod tubes show a little leakage on all of them. Not sure if I would ever worry about this yet. More on this later.



Maybe a silly question, but what are those metal tubes coming out of the air filter and the other passing under the jug?
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVslayer
Maybe a silly question, but what are those metal tubes coming out of the air filter and the other passing under the jug?
They are air-injection devices for emissions. I think they add a little extra air to the explosion.
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:16 PM   #22
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Basic Maintenance 101 - Final Drive Fluid Change

I am going to start with the simplest stuff first. Like changing fluids in the final drive and transmission. Back in my oilhead days I just changed the engine oil and filter AND the trannie and rear drive at every 3000 miles or so. It doesn't take much longer to do all the fluids than it does to just do the engine.

So, Rear Drive first. This is pretty simple stuff. PO had done the trannie but not the rear drive. I am one of the owners who changes all the fluids on any used bike I get right away. That way I know the quality and quantity of fluids in there.

Make sure the final drive fluid is warm by riding your bike at least 5-10 minutes or more. I've always done it this way but not sure why it really matters other than the fluid is warm and comes out easier.

Rear Drive First

Open filler so the unit can vent as it drains






Get the drain pan and rags ready. Hypoid oil stinks.




Open the drain bolt and out it comes








Clean the magnet on the drain plug. Look at that old crush washer. It hasn't been replaced in 5 years I bet.

Examine the magnet closely to see if you've got any big metal particles on there. There is normally just a little bit of sludge near the magnet. If you have more, take care to check it very carefully.




Get a new crush washer on that drain bolt and put it back where you found it. Carefully. I just buy crush washers in bulk. From what I can see so far my GS has 2 sizes, small and large. I got 6 of each.








Now, fill it back up with 260cc of Hypoid Gear Oil.










Put a new crush washer on the filler bolt and you're all set.






Done.

Infracaninophile screwed with this post 02-09-2009 at 09:38 AM
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:30 PM   #23
bgoodsoil
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Quote:
I think they add a little extra air to the explosion.
I read somewhere that they add air after the exhaust side to dilute the exhaust gases. Emissions are based on parts per million. With the air injection you're still dumping the same amount of junk into the atmosphere, but it looks like you're running cleaner--genius. And we end up with more garbage in our landfills after we yank it out and throw it away. Someone removed mine before I got the bike but left all the junk in the airbox so I had to finish the removal process. I've never heard anyone say it was worth keeping OR that it hurts anything to remove it.

I get the feeling we're muddying up his nice clean rebuild thread, sorry!
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:37 PM   #24
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Maintenance 101 - Trannie Fluid Change

Another very simple to do item. Make sure the fluid is warm just like the final drive. I did this by going for a ride before draining the fluid.

Open The filler hole so the trannie can vent while you drain








Drain the trannie. The bolt is on the bottom just in front of the muffler collector box.








Check the plug (which is magnetic) for metal pieces. If you have a lot, you have issues. Clean the magnet and then put a new crush washer on it and put it back.






Fill it up. The trannie on a R100GS takes 800CC of 80W/90 hypoid oil. I used full synthetic 75W/90 and others used a whole lot of different types.

I have a special funnel with a flexible hose that can take up to 1000cc. It is the easiest way I know to fill up the trannie with the filler hole on the side.










Put a new crush washer on the filler bolt and snug it up.







Trannie Done.

Infracaninophile screwed with this post 02-08-2009 at 02:47 PM
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:42 PM   #25
Infracaninophile OP
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Question For the Experts - Moly in the Final Drive?

Do you guys add a little Moly to the final drive when you change the fluid? I never did this on my oilheads but have heard of folks doing it on airheads.

Would love your input on this.

Tom
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Old 02-08-2009, 02:47 PM   #26
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I've never used anything but straight Spectro or Valvoline 80w90 in our BMW final drives for 500+K miles.
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:02 PM   #27
Infracaninophile OP
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Maintenance 101 - Engine Oil and Filter Change

Okay, I'm already a little stuck on this one. Draining the oil and removing the filter was easy. I then photographed all the pieces that came out of the oil filter chamber. I then opened up the BMW parts box and checked the parts there. I then read the Clymer manual.

I need to get input to be sure I put these parts back exactly right.

First, Drain the old oil.









Put the drain plug back when it's all drained. Give it 10+ minutes. Use a new crush washer.




Now remove the old oil filter and the 3,246 parts that come out with it...

Remove the 3 hex head bolts that hold the cover on. GS's have oil coolers so there is extra plumbing in the way. No biggie, just remove the 3 bolts and wiggle the cover out of the way.






This is what you see inside the cover. The oil filter and a bunch of o-rings and seals. Looks like my PO used some sort of gasket material on here. I don't think that is needed but will ask here.






Okay, here are the parts that came out in the order they came out from Left to Right.

Starting on Left:

1. Gasket for the oil filter door/cover and the 3 hex head screws.
2. Black o-Ring that goes on the inside of the door in a little groove.
3. White o-Ring. Not sure.
4. Metal o-Ring. Was on the outside of the actual filter.
5. The oil filter itself. The side facing the door is all metal.




Here is a picture of what the Clymer's manual says things should go back in:




Here is a picture of the BMW parts kit I got to do the filter change. There are more parts in here than I took out. Hmmm.







I did not remove either of the 2 small brass looking washers or the silver crush washer from my bike. I need to research Advrider more or get some input on the exact right order to put these things back in...



Tom

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Old 02-08-2009, 03:11 PM   #28
bgoodsoil
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straight from on high:

http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/

if you've got some calipers and feel like getting nitpicky you can check your canister recession. he's got a small hard to see link on how to do it and a chart of the measurements
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:28 PM   #29
Infracaninophile OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
straight from on high:

http://www.largiader.com/tech/filters/

if you've got some calipers and feel like getting nitpicky you can check your canister recession. he's got a small hard to see link on how to do it and a chart of the measurements
Okay, I hope it's legit to show a picture from Anton's site. If not, I will quickly remove the link to the picture. Looks like both the black and white o-rings go into the cover. Great.



Still not sure what the metal o-ring is for. The one at the lower right:





I know the new hinged oil filter goes in like this:

1. This end goes towards the engine block




2. This end goes towards the cover




The small silver crush washer is for the oil drain bolt. Makes sense. And the two small brass crush washers go into the thermostat. I am not sure if I have one of these or not. Where is it?

thanks,

tom
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Old 02-08-2009, 03:32 PM   #30
Infracaninophile OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WooPig
I'd start back tracking that tranny work. Find out the circlip is there and then ignore all the stories you'll find about related failures.
Woo:

Thanks for that input. A little further down the road I would like to find the original owner of this bike and find where he got the work done and if he had the circlip done. I may even go so far as to contact all the guys who do the trannie work and perhaps they could reference the transmission number?

This will come a little later after I've gotten some of the easier stuff done.

Tom
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