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Old 02-09-2009, 09:35 AM   #46
Infracaninophile OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monzablue


What's the source for that race tech article?? I need to do that mod. . .
Monza:

That came straight from Anton's web site:

Link: http://www.largiader.com/tech/gsforks/

Tom
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:25 PM   #47
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[QUOTE=robsmoto]For my 93 GS/PD I'm going to be doing the following in the near future:


My GS/PD is getting fitted for stainless exhaust headers and exhaust from EPCO. (I think that my GS/PD is getting the first one).
http://www.epcostainless.com/


This is kinda big news around here. There has been talk going back at least 2 years that I can remember where these guys, EPCO, were going to make a exhaust for the GS's but it never materialized. Are you saying they are working on your bike NOW and getting this exhaust ready for market ?
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:29 PM   #48
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This might go a little slower than expected

Fell on the ice today when taking out the trash. Just got back from the ER and I have a broken ankle. In a splint for a few days and then a real cast. Not sure for how long. So, I might be delayed by a week before I get back at this.

But, to complete the oil filter change I got it all straight now:

1. Clean all the old oil and stuff out of the cavity. This picture still shows oil in there. It's all gone now.




2. Push the new oil filter into the hole with this end going in first. The hole in the oil filter goes over the metal pipe inside the cavity. Carefully push it all the way back.



3. Next, place the new metal o-ring at the end of the oil filter. You can see it in there. It looks like a single piece of a slinky toy.




4. Now place the black and white o-rings carefully onto the cover. Here I have placed the cover gasket and the white o-ring and the black o-ring. All ready to put in place. In my case, I had to put the cover gasket in place BEORE the white o-ring as they interfered. Both the black and white o-rings stayed in place w/o any issues.

I think this is all set but if you think I am wrong I'd love to hear from you.




5. Cover in place and held with 3 allen-head cap screws. Side view in 2nd photo. Just be careful that the gasket, and 2 o-rings stay in place when you get it ready for the bolts. I used a T-handle allen wrench to put the screws in. It's a little tight with the crash bar and external plumbing but take your time and make sure it's right.






6. Then add oil. Clymers says 3.0 quarts/2.75 Litres if you change the filter and you have an oil cooler. No pics of this yet.

Tom
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:30 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gezerbike
{quoting robsmoto}

My GS/PD is getting fitted for stainless exhaust headers and exhaust from EPCO. (I think that my GS/PD is getting the first one).
http://www.epcostainless.com/


This is kinda big news around here. There has been talk going back at least 2 years that I can remember where these guys, EPCO, were going to make a exhaust for the GS's but it never materialized. Are you saying they are working on your bike NOW and getting this exhaust ready for market ?
Yes. Call Tom at EPCO for more information.

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Old 02-09-2009, 12:33 PM   #50
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Infra,
I'm so sorry to hear about your fall.
I hope the ankle heals quickly and well.
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:55 PM   #51
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+ 1 on the feelin' sorry for ya. Wow. Couple of comments on your oil change....am I the only one who does not use the paper gasket ? I know some who use it and some who don't. And doesn't the paper gasket kind of offset the purpose of the single metal ring ?
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:58 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WooPig
Infra,
I'm so sorry to hear about your fall.
I hope the ankle heals quickly and well.
Woo:

Thanks. Not a big deal. It's still winter here so I'll be back at it in a week!

Tom
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:00 PM   #53
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7. make sure you check the tightness of the oil cooler lines. they can get loosen as you wiggle things around. lots of oil can come out quickly if you skip this step.
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Old 02-09-2009, 01:07 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwblake
7. make sure you check the tightness of the oil cooler lines. they can get loosen as you wiggle things around. lots of oil can come out quickly if you skip this step.
Blake:

I hadn't even thought of that. I'll give them a check and add it to my list.

Any input on oil quantity? 3 Quarts sound right with an oil filter change?

t.
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:06 PM   #55
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Tough luck on the ice fall - hope that you heal quickly.

I've not used the metal shim when changing the oil filter on my GS.

When I purchased my first GS (an 88 Bumblebee) as a used bike, I paid the BMW dealer's shop mechanic to change the oil filter on the condition that I could watch the procedure. There was no shim in place with the old filter and he didn't put one in with the new filter. Just the black and white o-rings and the paper gasket. No measurement of canister depth.

[I traded the 88 Bumblebee in on a 94 R1100RS, but missed the GS. My trade-in was sold too quickly for me to repurchase. So I bought a barely used 93 GS/PD from that same dealer.]

When I changed the oil filter on the 93 GS/PD there was no metal shim. I've never installed one. I re-install the oil filter the same way the old one was removed. No problems. I do find that I have to use a bit of grease to hold the black and white o-rings in position when installing. Usually I don't remove the oil cooler lines. Note the comment above about checking the oil cooler lines for tightness. If the oil cooler lines loosen, you will get an oil leak and your right boot will get a nice oily coating. Don't ask me how I know.

I don't change the oil filter at each oil change either. [There was a guy named Fred Tausch that had an R60/5 with over 600,000 miles on it. He changed engine oil at 2,000 mile intervals. Oil filters were changed at intervals from 12,000 to 20,000 miles. To me that is a pretty compelling argument against changing the filter at every oil change.]

Heck, I don't even use motorcycle oil most of the time. I have once or twice used Golden Spectro oil and a few times used Harley engine oil. Mostly I use Valvolene Durablend 20W-50 or Castrol GTX 20W-50. Once I tried Mobil 1 - after a few miles the bike began leaking like crazy. I dumped the Mobil 1 and went to Castrol GTX. Leak stopped.

I usually add about 2.5 to 2.75 quarts of oil when changing oil. The lower volume is when not changing the filter. That volume of oil shows up near the upper mark on the dipstick. My bike doesn't use oil between changes. I usually get the oil changed at mileage intervals between 1,000 to 2,000 miles. The oil comes out looking pretty clean. Cheaper oil (meaning automotive oil) and more frequent oil changes works well for me.

robsmoto screwed with this post 02-09-2009 at 04:47 PM
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Infracaninophile
But, to complete the oil filter change I got it all straight now:
I don't trust what dealers or POs "previously did" when it comes to oil filter changes I do for the first time. On your next filter change, I would measure the cannister depth to give me an idea of what kind of oil pressure my engine is getting. This will right-away tell me if I need a shim, more shims (or none at all), or that paper gasket which I never used on both my R100s.

Cannister depth (that I've seen) varies between 2.8 - 4.6 mm and how you use those shims and gaskets will mean the very life of your engine
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:37 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
I don't trust what dealers or POs "previously did" when it comes to oil filter changes I do for the first time. On your next filter change, I would measure the cannister depth to give me an idea of what kind of oil pressure my engine is getting. This will right-away tell me if I need a shim, more shims (or none at all), or that paper gasket which I never used on both my R100s.

Cannister depth (that I've seen) varies between 2.8 - 4.6 mm and how you use those shims and gaskets will mean the very life of your engine
O:

Can you expound more on the life/death of my engine part? The Clymers, Haynes, and BMW manuals all show the metal ring along with the white and black o-rings. I certainly don't want to kill my engine.

Thanks,

Tom
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:41 PM   #58
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Gladly. Do a search on "$2000 o-ring" on Old Skool (I just did). There are many great threads on the subject.

Just to give you an idea, the white o-ring has to be compressed some 22-25% for optimal sealing. To arrive at this, one must know his cannister depth to determine the amount of shims/gaskets to use (or not to use).

Less than satisfactory o-ring compression will lead to low oil pressure. Too much compression may mash the white o-ring, leading to failure as well.

In my GSPD's case, my cannister's depth is 4.3mm, so I use 4 shims and no paper gasket
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:41 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
I don't trust what dealers or POs "previously did" when it comes to oil filter changes I do for the first time. On your next filter change, I would measure the cannister depth to give me an idea of what kind of oil pressure my engine is getting. This will right-away tell me if I need a shim, more shims (or none at all), or that paper gasket which I never used on both my R100s.

Cannister depth (that I've seen) varies between 2.8 - 4.6 mm and how you use those shims and gaskets will mean the very life of your engine
What he said, only I would take it back apart and measure the cannister depth, you'll most likely not want the paper gasket in there.
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Old 02-09-2009, 02:47 PM   #60
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Oh No.

For fear of turning this into another "$2000 Oring Thread", I'll add my two bits. According to the parts manual you are not to use a paper gasket on these later Boxer engines. The PO put one one my bike and the result was that the white Oring was not compressed enough and the pressure oil went overboard - on my very first ride. I caught it in time and saved the bike from oil starvation. Just don't do it. The paper gaskets are supplied with filter kits, (though I have never seen them in my kits) from what I hear.

As for the metal shim, this has also been beaten to death in this Forum. A good technician will measure the distance from the housing face to the edge of the cannister (3.8 mm's is around the figure you want - I'm using memory here) and will decide if the shim is required. Supposedly the cannister can migrate in the block and open up the gap between the canister and the oil filter cover lid. To arrive at the correct measurement, a shim is installed. My '94 comes up with the right measurement every time I change the filter and therefore no shim for me.

You can ruin your bottom end if you fail to take these precautions during a filter change. I'm lucky that I caught the problem with mine in time. Jackd
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