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Old 03-10-2009, 01:24 PM   #46
SimpleSimon
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Old 03-10-2009, 01:32 PM   #47
Bloodweiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YZman
Well I can still continue tearing the motor down and polishing parts up. That dont cost much.


And speaking of motors....That oil pump is suspect. Should the pump spin freely in both directions? cause it dont. It will only spin freely one way and stops dead in the other. Unfortunately the direction it seems to stop spinning apears to be the direction that the motor spins it.

Given the amount of gorp I have been picking outta this motor it wouldn't suprise me if something is in the pump. It looks like I am tearing the pump apart to see whats up in there. Dosn't look like there is much in there to get me in trouble.

I'm pretty sure mine spun freely in both directions. You should do your homework before you tear into that sucker. I feel like a lot of guys send their's out because it's perfect functioning is oh-so critical. Food for thought anyway.....

Did you ever get that clutch hoodicky out?
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Old 03-10-2009, 04:33 PM   #48
YZman OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser
I'm pretty sure mine spun freely in both directions. You should do your homework before you tear into that sucker. I feel like a lot of guys send their's out because it's perfect functioning is oh-so critical. Food for thought anyway.....

Did you ever get that clutch hoodicky out?
Nope. Havent had the chance to get out there to work on it. Maybe this weekend.
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:57 PM   #49
Rathlindri
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What's the latest???
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Old 03-20-2009, 05:15 PM   #50
YZman OP
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About the same as the last update. Not much. Its finially warming up around here. Yard needs raking. Dirtbike needs dirtbikin

I do have a few ebay e-snipes pending for some parts I need. Well see how those go. Im pretty sure Ill loose as I am trying to low ball it but well see. I got nothing but time.

If I could get the clutch center hub off I would be able to make some headway. I have a puller but that sucker is on there but good. Im thinking I need to add some heat to the hub to see if it will loosen up.

Also anyone know how that gear on the crankshaft above the oil pump comes off? I got the bevel drive gear off that drives the oil pump but the one behind that one...I dont know.

I was out there looking at it last weekend but thats about all I did look at it. I had to re-install the front end on my sons YZ85 and spoon the studded tires off my CRF250x and spoon on the summer rubber. That took up all my morning. Tomorrow Im going dirtbikin so there goes that day. Maybe I can sneak out there Sunday for a bit and swear at that clutch hub a bit to see where that gets me.

Thats it for now. Im pretty sure this project will slow waay down this summer as summer activities will no doubt get in the way and cash flow will dwindle. But well see. I would really like to get the motor back together before fall hits so I can focus on the chassis this winter. I would really like to have this rolling by next spring. That might be a lofty goal but well see.
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Old 03-20-2009, 05:20 PM   #51
BrianK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YZman
.Also anyone know how that gear on the crankshaft above the oil pump comes off? I got the bevel drive gear off that drives the oil pump but the one behind that one...I dont know.
MIGHT work like a Norton's? Info on that here:

http://rocbo.lautre.net/technique/norton_workshop/
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Old 03-20-2009, 05:25 PM   #52
BrianK
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And here's a nice pictorial - again, NORTON so beware of differences. But I'll bet they're similar at least and this may help. Good luck.

http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o...view=slideshow
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:57 PM   #53
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Progress!!!

A little anyways. Brother-in-law wanted to work on his KDX200 to try and get it running to sell so while we were out there I got a little done on the BSA.

The Clutch hub that was holding me back...No more. Put the puller on and tightened it waaaaay up then grabbed my favorite tool



Oxy-Acetaline tortch. Heated that hub waaaaaay up and Blamo it shot across the room.

Look close...its still smoking



Remove the cover behind that and there is the drive sprocket.



Do I need to take the front sprocket off to remove the tranny?


Next up was the gear above the oil pump. That sucker was on even tighter than the clutch hub. So with the help of my favorite tool the torch I heated that gear till it glowed red and pried it off with 2 screwdrivers. Sucess



Next up the oil pump. Took it apart and there really isn't much in there. 4 gears and the main drive. But it was mungy so it needs a good cleaning.








Then the last thing we did was remove the mufflers from the header pipes with the help of my trusty torch. Mufflers are trashed and will not be used for anything. They are solid rust inside.



Thats about it for now.

YZman screwed with this post 03-28-2009 at 05:04 PM
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Old 03-29-2009, 07:55 PM   #54
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Subtract even more $$ from the fund. Wifes Jeep needs new water pump and exhaust manifold and maybe tranny lines....Yea...thats gonna be cheep.

Some days...months...years... I just cant win
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:25 PM   #55
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at least you're making progress . Hell, you've almost caught up with me.

You do need to remove the front sprocket to remove the tranny.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:49 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser
at least you're making progress . Hell, you've almost caught up with me.

You do need to remove the front sprocket to remove the tranny.
problem is in a few more updates....its going to start costing me money again. Unfortunately money I dont have seeing as the Jeep just set me back $500.

Sprocket does have to come off. Well I think I have some 520 chain laying around I can use to lock up the sprocket so I can spin off the nut. Another project for another day.

I really need to start spending some time on the cylinder and head also. They need to be striped and painted.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:48 PM   #57
BrianK
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Might be able to get that off without locking up the sprocket if you have an air/electric impact hammer?

Make sure it's not a left-hand thread first in any event - good advice for all Brit bike removal jobs, actually!

Good luck.
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:14 PM   #58
datchew
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Great progress and kudos for tackling such a mess.

Some of you guys on here have a real talent for cleaning nasty stuff and making it shine. I don't know how you do it. I've tried parts washers, solvents, etc.


Looking great.


Bloodweiser... I think he's gonna beat you.
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Old 03-30-2009, 09:48 PM   #59
sonic reducer
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you mentioned that you are looking at a 4" stretch. with a stock rake, that much stretch looks out of place. consider a 2" or less stretch which will keep the handling a bit funner and the proportions of the bike nice. that picture you posted is no 4" stretch its closer to 0".
or better still consider utilizing the stock rear suspension in any variety of custom job, cafe, scrambler, tracker, or even brat style. real bobbers are OK, but overhyped and especially overcopied in this day and age of iron crosses and red rims/www's. do your hardtail experimentation with some sort of jap bike. i did, and Im over it. you don't HAVE to cut the stock frame, uncut BSA's dont grow on trees. bobbers are a dime a dozen. a patina'd original bike has a cool factor WELL above that of a 4" stretch "bobber" with way more ridability and resale value. with that tank and decent seat plus a nearly complete bike youve got a lot to work with. please dont cut it up.
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Old 03-31-2009, 06:10 AM   #60
YZman OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonic reducer
you mentioned that you are looking at a 4" stretch. with a stock rake, that much stretch looks out of place. consider a 2" or less stretch which will keep the handling a bit funner and the proportions of the bike nice. that picture you posted is no 4" stretch its closer to 0".
or better still consider utilizing the stock rear suspension in any variety of custom job, cafe, scrambler, tracker, or even brat style. real bobbers are OK, but overhyped and especially overcopied in this day and age of iron crosses and red rims/www's. do your hardtail experimentation with some sort of jap bike. i did, and Im over it. you don't HAVE to cut the stock frame, uncut BSA's dont grow on trees. bobbers are a dime a dozen. a patina'd original bike has a cool factor WELL above that of a 4" stretch "bobber" with way more ridability and resale value. with that tank and decent seat plus a nearly complete bike youve got a lot to work with. please dont cut it up.
Actually from what I read its running a 5" stretch on that one.

You aint the 1st to tell me not to chop and really I understand where your coming from with that. But its just not me. If I was looking to restore, this wouldn't be the bike for me. I like certain aspects of it but as a whole...not so much. Stock just dosn't do it for me.

Any frame mods I need done to make this come out ok will easily be able to be made a I have a friend right down the street that builds his own frames. He built this bike from the ground up. I think he can handle a few frame mods. He actually offered to build the rear end for me vs me buying a kit. I think we will also be building the rear fender for it as he has an english wheel that is just beggin for a slab of aluminum to be thrown thru it.

My friends bike.
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