Calgarians that dualsport

[Calgary06]

Here is a photo of us last weekend in Mclean.
Me on the GS, Kevin2Wheels on the Versys and two friends.
Staying in the quad trails was OK...until you got off track.
The center bead on the K60 rear does not like snow.
On the other hand I am not that good....

I'm a skier so I say bring on the snow - but getting back out on the bike sure was good.

[dwayne]

Originally Posted by XSoCal

Not sure what is different about my XRR, but it's fully registered as a street bike in AB and has been for the past 3 owners. The original owner put a Baja kit on it, so it has signals and a battery, and neither me nor the previous owner had any trouble with the Registry office or insurance, and they went over the paperwork in detail. Never been pulled over on it though.


Btw great debate on the merits of the KTM Adventure versus the XRR - I have both bikes and will certainly have an opinion after I ride the KTM some more!

There are many bikes like yours running around street plated. I have a KTM 250 XCW (2 stroke) that is street plated, I had a 98 KTM 400 sc that was street plated and got an OPI, I had a KLX300R that was street plated. Once you have a street plate it will carry over owner to owner in Alberta unless you ask for a change to an OHV.

I still have the 98 KTM, although now it is a 2003 Adventure. I bought a different frame for it without the RUM designation, bolted all the '98 components to it, replaced the blown motor with a '95 620 RXC motor, and Bob's you uncle 100% street legal. The bizarre thing is that all of the "dirt" components like brakes, wheels etc have the same part numbers as the competition vehicles.

[XSoCal]

Originally Posted by dwayne

I still have the 98 KTM, although now it is a 2003 Adventure. I bought a different frame for it without the RUM designation, bolted all the '98 components to it, replaced the blown motor with a '95 620 RXC motor, and Bob's you uncle 100% street legal. The bizarre thing is that all of the "dirt" components like brakes, wheels etc have the same part numbers as the competition vehicles.

The KTM sounds like a cool bike! I wish I had more space to work on bikes; as it is I might have to sell the XRR to make room, if I decide to stick with the 950. Which I probably will...only ridden it once but I really like it. But as you say the plates will carry over so I should be able to find a good home for it.

[Beema Killa]

200km loop today. Stopped out at the gate for Powderface. What a beautiful day. Hey Red Cat! We gotta get out sometime!

[RED CAT]

Hey I was out yesterday also! 350kms mostly bumpy paved roads and some gravel. Was thinking of contacting you, but you being a young fella, figured you'd be working. Too bad. None of my regulars could make it. Probably the best day we're going to have for a while. Maybe next week.

[Beema Killa]

Yeah it was a great day. I only work Monday to Thursday, so after errands it's usually saddle time on Fridays.

[flossandfly]

Got the bike put together and it looked beautiful (the weather and the bike haha). Got cleaned up and it was blizzarding.

[Lycan1]

Originally Posted by flossandfly

Got the bike put together and it looked beautiful (the weather and the bike haha). Got cleaned up and it was blizzarding.

Well, I spent a few hours fixing what the shop (that shall not be named) screwed up. I had my forks serviced (among other things like the valves) and rode it home on Thursday. I was cleaning it up when I got home, only to realize that they routed my brake lines wrong. The weird thing is they took the time to line up the plastic protector areas and the rub marks from the lines(on the insides of the forks), and then put the brake lines on the outside of the forks! I fixed that, which took very little time, but really? Pay attention guys. I also noticed they didn't reconnect the drain hose at the bottom of the air box, grrrr!

Hopefully that was all they forgot.......





These were taken before re-installing my crash bars, and moving the lines back. Under compression the lines get too close to the ends of the crash bars and could snag. Two years with the lines on the inside and zero issues.


The way it was

Line guides

I also took off my fuel pump and changed the 2 filters, and they really were ready. Bits of the "sock" filter were accumulating at the bottom of the pump housing. If you have a year on your 990 DO THIS. I'll even come over and help if you like.

Here are the old ones.


I enjoyed working on the bike, and it is ready to roll now, come on spring!!

[RED CAT]

We actually pay them to do it. Sort of like using you own Vaseline.

[Lycan1]

Originally Posted by RED CAT

We actually pay them to do it. Sort of like using your own Vaseline.

Yes, that is the annoying part. Wow do they charge, and then can't even be meticulous about it! Just another job, another bike. Next year, I do my own valves, and own forks. The specialty tools are much cheaper than the labor. If they would do it right, and make me believe they care about my machine, I wouldn't mind paying (what they charge), just for piece of mind. I don't even get that, and there is no point complaining to them, they don't care enough to change.

I need a bearing puller to do my rear wheel, anyone know where I can buy the proper tool locally as I don't want to buy on-line.

[RED CAT]

Don't need a bearing puller to replace a rear wheel bearing. Pop off the seals, maybe a circlip, so be careful.Apply WD40 and let sit for awhile. Then from the opposite side, slide a long punch through the axel hole and get it on the edge of the bearing and tap with a hammer moving the punch all around the edges of the bearing. Should eventually start sliding out. Clean up with WD40 or lube with oil and tap the new bearings in. Put the new bearings in the freezer for a while. Helps them slide in easier cause they contract a little. Use a socket to tap the new bearings in. Make sure you tap just on the outer edges of the bearing. Just take your time. If the punch doesn't work try a screw driver. Anyhow, this is how I've always did it.

[Lycan1]

Originally Posted by RED CAT

Don't need a bearing puller to replace a rear wheel bearing. Pop off the seals, maybe a circlip, so be careful.Apply WD40 and let sit for awhile. Then from the opposite side, slide a long punch through the axel hole and get it on the edge of the bearing and tap with a hammer moving the punch all around the edges of the bearing. Should eventually start sliding out. Clean up with WD40 or lube with oil and tap the new bearings in. Put the new bearings in the freezer for a while. Helps them slide in easier cause they contract a little. Use a socket to tap the new bearings in. Make sure you tap just on the outer edges of the bearing. Just take your time. If the punch doesn't work try a screw driver. Anyhow, this is how I've always did it.

Thanks, low tech is good. When I work on my machine careful is always the way.

[dwayne]

Originally Posted by RED CAT

Don't need a bearing puller to replace a rear wheel bearing. Pop off the seals, maybe a circlip, so be careful.Apply WD40 and let sit for awhile. Then from the opposite side, slide a long punch through the axel hole and get it on the edge of the bearing and tap with a hammer moving the punch all around the edges of the bearing. Should eventually start sliding out. Clean up with WD40 or lube with oil and tap the new bearings in. Put the new bearings in the freezer for a while. Helps them slide in easier cause they contract a little. Use a socket to tap the new bearings in. Make sure you tap just on the outer edges of the bearing. Just take your time. If the punch doesn't work try a screw driver. Anyhow, this is how I've always did it.

A couple of brass punches of diffrent sizes are a worthwhile investment (if you don't already have them). It can mitigate some hamfisted gouging of the hub/cush drive.

I do know a good mechanic should you need one.

[Mr. Canoehead]

You can get a blind bearing puller at Princess Auto but I have always used a punch, too.

I also find that applying a heat gun to the hub helps on removal and install, too.


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[Jeathrow Bowdean]

I picked a good dealer to buy my bikes from, and I see a trusted family run buisness to do my service work. Family run shops take pride in thier work bing that this is what they live on. I don't trust big dealerships to work on my stuff, so the small dudes fill my needs.

From Jeathrow Bowdean in Western Canada