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Old 02-25-2009, 12:47 AM   #1
dandini OP
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valve adjustment how to on 690E

Here's what I did - will try to put proper links to the relevant photos at some stage...

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/dpeward/Valves#

1Valve checking

1.1General

This involves removing the airbox and disconnecting most of the air piper. It also requires a source of alternative shims and a tool to lock the crankshaft.

See the photos as a guide to how all the wires, tubes, etc. are routed.

1.2Accessing the valves

1.Remove seat.
2.Remove both side panels (4 M6 screws, using 8mm socket).
3.Disconnect regular/rectifier from right of headstock (2 M6 screws) and leave dangling on its wires.
4.Remove air box screws (4 M6 screws). The filter and its cover can be left in place.
5.Disconnect air tube to the right of airbox from connector near headstock and unthread from frame.
6.Loosen carb inlet hose clamp (needs 6mm socket). [Do not forget to tighten once airbox replaced !]
7.Prise airbox trunk off carb (use screwdriver) and raise rear of airbox ~40mm to expose underside.
8.Disconnect air tube and electrical connector from underside of airbox. Move tube well out of way.
9.Remove airbox and put clean cloth in carb inlet.
10.Clean top of engine and surrounding area well (vacuum, toothbrush, paintbrush, etc.)
11.Remove both air tubes from valve cover and move well out of way.
12.Remove valve cover screws (4 M6 screws) and carefully remove valve cover.
13.Cover open head with clean cloth then remove spark plug cap, using a screwdriver to lever up on the raised NGK badge.
14.Remove spark plug (KTM box spanner plus KTM 13mm ring spanner or 13mm socket). The plug gap should be 0.9mm.
15.Remove plastic access plug from left engine cover (14mm external hex ‘socket’ required).
16.Turn engine to TDC compression (13mm socket). This is when bolt head on rocker carrier is seen through middle hole of cam sprocket, the one next to the decompressor pawl.
17.Valve clearances are now easily measured (all should be 0.07 to 0.13mm).

1.3Adjusting the valves

18.Use a clean cloth to block the cam chain tunnel.
19.Remove the four screws holding the rocker shafts.
20.Use one of these screws to extract the rocker shafts via the holes on the cam sprocket, either side of the ‘TDC compression’ hole.
21.Measure shims to two D.P. Work out what new sizes are required. To make the clearance smaller, the shim has to be thicker, and vice versa.
22.When replacing the rocker shafts, make sure that the small hole in each is uppermost.
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dandini screwed with this post 02-25-2009 at 02:38 PM
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:38 AM   #2
lowercasee
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Great write up! I was the one that posted the procedure over at TT (as well as SMJ and KTMTalk). Will be updating mine with more pics once I get my shims. Thanks for the pics with the hoses too, I was kind of worried that I would forget where they went while waiting for shims.

I do have a few questions for you, when you removed the 4 bolts that held the rocker arm shafts in place, did any of them have washers? Mine did not, but the engine diagrams online and that came with the bike show washers for each bolt.

Also, were any of your tolerances out? Both of my intakes were tight at .002 and .003. I just thought that it was kind of strange because I have read other accounts of people checking the valves with 3000+ miles and everything is still perfect.
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:58 AM   #3
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Good info. Thanks for saving me some money. I had previously thought I might want a 690. That looks like a PITA to work on.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:15 AM   #4
lowercasee
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/\ It's actually not that bad to take apart. I thought it would be way harder than it actually was. Now that I know how to get to where I need to do the valve check/adjust, I'm sure I could easily do it inside of an hour or less.
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:28 PM   #5
dandini OP
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Actually it was absolutely fine, very quick and about 3 hours less than the same job on the Dakar. The valves are a joy to adjust!

If you remove the SAS that will help to reduce the number of hoses. (Next job)
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Old 02-25-2009, 02:37 PM   #6
dandini OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowercasee
Great write up! I was the one that posted the procedure over at TT (as well as SMJ and KTMTalk). Will be updating mine with more pics once I get my shims. Thanks for the pics with the hoses too, I was kind of worried that I would forget where they went while waiting for shims.
Thanks. I enjoyed your write up too. Great pics. Yes, always easy to forget the routing! That's why I took my pics in the first place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowercasee
I do have a few questions for you, when you removed the 4 bolts that held the rocker arm shafts in place, did any of them have washers? Mine did not, but the engine diagrams online and that came with the bike show washers for each bolt.
hmm, don't remember any washers. why would you need them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowercasee
Also, were any of your tolerances out? Both of my intakes were tight at .002 and .003. I just thought that it was kind of strange because I have read other accounts of people checking the valves with 3000+ miles and everything is still perfect.
mine were perfect.
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Old 02-25-2009, 06:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandini
hmm, don't remember any washers. why would you need them?
I'm not sure why they are needed, but the engine diagram shows washers on the rocker arm shaft bolts (item 17 in pic):

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Old 02-26-2009, 12:49 AM   #8
dandini OP
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That's from the 2009 pdf? I wonder if the 2008 is the same?
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:52 AM   #9
dandini OP
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More info here...

lowercasee
on Thumpertalk started a thread with pictures on valve adjustment on the 690. Here is the link:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho....php?p=7697432
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Old 02-26-2009, 08:16 AM   #10
lowercasee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandini
That's from the 2009 pdf? I wonder if the 2008 is the same?
No, it's the diagram from the 2008. It's the SMC, but as far as I understand the motor is identical between the different 690s.
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowercasee
No, it's the diagram from the 2008. It's the SMC, but as far as I understand the motor is identical between the different 690s.
Here is the page from the 690e manual

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Old 02-26-2009, 04:06 PM   #12
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.07mm - 0.13mm = .003" to .005"
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Old 02-26-2009, 05:57 PM   #13
lowercasee
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Got my new shims from the dealer today and found out my math was WAY off. Thankfully the dealer lent me a few 9.48s so I could determine what sizes I need so now I've just got to order some more. Another few days I guess...
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:11 PM   #14
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I (finally) have 6k miles on mine and did a valve check this weekend. I spent way more time getting the bike cleaned up than I did actually getting in there and getting the job done. I have one tight intake (at the limit of the range) that's going to need adjusting, and the rest are hovering in the middle.

Tips/Notes:
--The reg/rect is blocking access to the right-front airbox screw (which is why you remove it.) If you push the wiring out of the way it IS visible inside the frame rail. I used a magnet to make sure I didn't drop the sucker as I unscrewed it.

--Clip the zip tie that binds the sensor/breather hose (that attach to the bottom of the airbox) together. It allows you to raise the airbox more without pulling the wires out, and makes removal easier. (I think this is the one that people say unecessarily puts strain on these wires.) (Oh, and the sensor connector is one that you pinch to release.)

--When you're cleaning the head prior to removal, go ahead and pull the breather hoses first to make it simpler. Cover the inlets with a rubber-banded baggie or stopper. (Georgia clay gets everywhere. YMMV.)

--The breather hose in step #5 in the original instructions: when he says 'unthread from frame' he doesn't mean remove the barbed attachment from the frame, just that you can entirely remove that breather hose. (WTF was I thinking?)

Clean-up aside I could have the valve cover off in about 15 minutes the 2nd time around. I'll post back if I have any more learning moments while changing the shims.

Jeff

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Old 08-26-2013, 06:00 PM   #15
coarsegoldkid
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Isn't there a shim calculator selection chart available? I see no 9.48 in the list of available shims.
I would think you need a 2.55 for the tighter valve; 2.53 for the slightly tighter valve. That being the case only one shim is required. Swap the 255 over to the one valve and buy 2.53.
Or is there something I'm missing here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowercasee View Post
Got my new shims from the dealer today and found out my math was WAY off. Thankfully the dealer lent me a few 9.48s so I could determine what sizes I need so now I've just got to order some more. Another few days I guess...
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