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Old 04-07-2009, 03:01 AM   #211
Gravel Seeker
Thomas
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
BMW retail price is about 68 bucks for that sticker! ONE of them.
HOLY CRAP BATMAN
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 04-07-2009, 05:40 AM   #212
dang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo
Wonder if one of you Dakar owners would mind measuring the dimension of your "DAKAR" logo on the side of the tank/fairing for me. Just need to know how tall and long it is so I can get a similiar set made up for my bike! Thanks guys!
Hey, there's a guy here on ADV who sells very nice Dakar stickers. Go over to "Vendors" and search stickers. I'll look it up when I get time.
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:55 AM   #213
Lion BR
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It goes to say how good these bikes are. If they will run well with minimal maintenance, they are great for me. That was my objective when picking this bike over the other choices at the time I bought it in 2006 (KTM 640, DR 650, XR650, KLR). Another thing should be noted as well. After a day's riding, you are not as tired as you would have been should you had ridden one of those orange or red vibrating machines - been there done that. Of course, the Dakar is heavy and feels heavier, and those other machines (except the KLR) can take you further on the technical stuff. To me, the Dakar is a keeper.
Lion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker
I'm actually really embarrassed about the level of maintanance I put in. Apart from the 600mi/1000km service it's never been in the shop for a service. I've had it in to replace the waterpump and all the bearings in the rear wheel and sprocket carrier because I don't have the tools or know how to do that myself. The valves was checked at 20.000 kms (within) and 50.000 kms (slightly outside on the intake side). I change the oil and filters each year and aswell as brake fluid. Chain probably doesn't get the care it deserves (which is why I'm adding a centerstand this summer). And I change fork oil sometimes
I hose it down when it's dirty, but I've never waxed it.

I had no problems riding around Australia with full luggage on it. Sometimes I'd wish I had a few more horses and lower rpm at highway speed, but you'd be hard pressed to take a 1200GS to places I go.

I'd be the first to admit that the bike has short comings, but so do all bikes. For what it is it's probably the best bike out there (IMO). I've changed alot of things
Stock headlight is to weak
Stock fork springs are too soft
TT rally footpegs really makes a huge difference when riding standing up
Stock gearing is very inbetween. To high for highways and too low for slow stuff.
Stock mudguard is more for show than anything else.

That being said I have HUGE plans this summer
Rebuil fork to cartrige at suspension specialist
Öhlins rear shock
Aswell as a few bits and pieces from TT and Trailtech
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:53 AM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lion BR
Another thing should be noted as well. After a day's riding, you are not as tired as you would have been should you had ridden one of those orange or red vibrating machines - been there done that. Of course, the Dakar is heavy and feels heavier, and those other machines (except the KLR) can take you further on the technical stuff. To me, the Dakar is a keeper.
Lion
A very good point. I've not ridden a KTM more than a few minutes, and I wouldn't want to sit in that saddle for long. Another thing, you mention vibrations, but even more so the rattling sound. Sounds like it's falling apart in your hands.

I'm sure a KTM or an XR would take me a couple of extra meters, but I seriously think that the natural choice if I wanted to make it further would be a 450 type enduro bike. With the 4WD laws the way they are over here I don't really ever think about what I could've done with another bike though.
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 04-07-2009, 11:19 AM   #215
dang
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Stickers,

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297002

I also was lucky enough to pick up a left side faux tank sticker (decal?) a while back in anticipation of a repaint of my trusty white 2001. I could scan it if anyone needs. Might take a couple days but it has the checker board stuff too.

Dan
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Old 04-08-2009, 01:24 PM   #216
Round-I-Go
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker
Stock gearing is very inbetween. To high for highways and too low for slow stuff.
Gravel Seeker, not sure I understand this one ... do you mean the gearing is to high for highways and too low for slow stuff? (meaning wide spaced ratios) ... or do you mean engine speed too high for highway and too low for slow stuff (meaning close ratios)?

...cuz high gearing for highway and low for slow sounds right to me ... I haven't ridden one (yet) so I have to ask.

Thanx,
Paul
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Old 04-08-2009, 01:57 PM   #217
atFault
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dang
Stickers,

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297002

I also was lucky enough to pick up a left side faux tank sticker (decal?) a while back in anticipation of a repaint of my trusty white 2001. I could scan it if anyone needs. Might take a couple days but it has the checker board stuff too.

Dan
Your link is to the Dakar Touareg man. He is available as an .eps artwork file. If you have someone good who does vinyl you can just use this: http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/down...and/53031.html

As for the original tank decals, if you don't want to buy it from the dealer then you will likely need to put some time in with some illustration software. Having someone else recreate it professionally for you will easily cost more than it will from the dealer.
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:16 PM   #218
dang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atFault
Your link is to the Dakar Touareg man. He is available as an .eps artwork file. If you have someone good who does vinyl you can just use this: http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/down...and/53031.html

As for the original tank decals, if you don't want to buy it from the dealer then you will likely need to put some time in with some illustration software. Having someone else recreate it professionally for you will easily cost more than it will from the dealer.
Thanks for the great link! I thought it would be pretty easy to just trace the checkered flag part and cut it. I might just skip that crap anyway. it's not that it looks good, I was just tending toward "stock". guess I'm more of a follower than a leader.
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:04 PM   #219
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Fuel injection question

I have finished the first round of maintance. New steering head bearings and races, lubed all the rear swing arm and shock stiff. New sealed battery, new k and n air filter. Got the throttle cable on the right setting, fresh fork seals and oil. Put on new Kenda tires (suck on pavement). Will get it offroad on Sat if it does not rain. Question is I want to drill out the left muffler. How hard is it to turn up the fuel. With the K and N and the increased exhaust flow it will need a little more fuel. Thanks and keep up the good posts.
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Old 04-08-2009, 03:50 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roundigo
Gravel Seeker, not sure I understand this one ... do you mean the gearing is to high for highways and too low for slow stuff? (meaning wide spaced ratios) ... or do you mean engine speed too high for highway and too low for slow stuff (meaning close ratios)?

...cuz high gearing for highway and low for slow sounds right to me ... I haven't ridden one (yet) so I have to ask.

Thanx,
Paul
Sounds like you know more about this than I do. Stock gearing (sprockets) is 16/47. (Might be I call 1st lower than 5th and you call 1st higher than 5th)
This leaves me changing from 1st to 2nd and back again constantly on the really tight stuff. I want to just cruise along in 2nd like my riding buddies on R100GSs, but in 2nd the bike idles at least 5km/h faster than theirs and I have to clutch and wait or gear down to 1st and run at 6000 rpms.
Also, the bike needs 3000 rpm for it to react fast enough on throttle input, but it runs out of breath at 6000.

On highways in 5th I'd like it to rev about 1000 rpm lower than it does for comfort.

My plan is to pick up an extra sprocket carrier for the rear and run two sets.
15/49 for fun and 16/44 for commuting. (edit: wrote 17/44 first, but JT only makes 16, see chart below)

Might have confused everyone inluding myself more with that one

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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

Gravel Seekers.com

Hey !
It's the African ant eater ritual !

Gravel Seeker screwed with this post 04-08-2009 at 04:06 PM
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Old 04-08-2009, 04:00 PM   #221
Gravel Seeker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underwaterguru
I have finished the first round of maintance. New steering head bearings and races, lubed all the rear swing arm and shock stiff. New sealed battery, new k and n air filter. Got the throttle cable on the right setting, fresh fork seals and oil. Put on new Kenda tires (suck on pavement). Will get it offroad on Sat if it does not rain. Question is I want to drill out the left muffler. How hard is it to turn up the fuel. With the K and N and the increased exhaust flow it will need a little more fuel. Thanks and keep up the good posts.
I run a K&N and Staintune exhaust and I haven't done anything with the FI.

f650.com says the brain will adjust itself according to the bikes breathing (if you keep the air sensor in the intake and the lambda I guess).

Top Tip
A BMW mechanic once told me that if you mainly have short trips the bike will never run correctly because it doesn't have time to adjust the FI according to air temp and humidity. He said that it takes about 30-40kms for this to self adjust. Certainly something to think about after that rainy cold evening ride home and all week you ride in warm, dry, sunny conditions, but never more than 20kms to and from work - the bike will still think it's wet and cold (and in worst case, dark
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

Gravel Seekers.com

Hey !
It's the African ant eater ritual !

Gravel Seeker screwed with this post 04-08-2009 at 04:07 PM
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:11 PM   #222
rob feature
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underwaterguru
How hard is it to turn up the fuel. With the K and N and the increased exhaust flow it will need a little more fuel. Thanks and keep up the good posts.
You need a Fuel Nanny or TFI box. You also need to unplug the oxygen sensor.

This will reduce your MPG by about 30-40% and you don't really gain much other than better throttle response. You may also need to mod your snorkel. Tuning it with a dyno and adding an aftermarket silencer might get you 1 or 2 extra HP. Spendy mods for a very small gain, but it cures surging/stalling at the same time (so does an iridium tipped plug...that's around $10).
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:15 PM   #223
rob feature
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker

f650.com says the brain will adjust itself according to the bikes breathing (if you keep the air sensor in the intake and the lambda I guess).
I don't believe it'll add enough fuel to make a performance difference. It'll correct for elevation, but won't just add fuel because you reduced back pressure or let more into the airbox. I always got consistent fuel economy using the factory or aftermarket exhaust...saying that the computer isn't adding fuel.

As the K&N goes...I ain't touchin' that one
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Old 04-08-2009, 08:57 PM   #224
Round-I-Go
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My thoughts imbedded in your quote below ... remember, this is from a guy who has never ridden an F650, so who knows what theory will produce the desired result till you actually try it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker
Sounds like you know more about this than I do. HA ... Don't bank on that, but see what you think of this... Stock gearing (sprockets) is 16/47. Then the stock final ratio is 2.94 [47/16=2.9375, call it 2.94] (Might be I call 1st lower than 5th and you call 1st higher than 5th)
This leaves me changing from 1st to 2nd and back again constantly on the really tight stuff. I want to just cruise along in 2nd like my riding buddies on R100GSs, but in 2nd the bike idles at least 5km/h faster than theirs and I have to clutch and wait or gear down to 1st and run at 6000 rpms.
Also, the bike needs 3000 rpm for it to react fast enough on throttle input, but it runs out of breath at 6000. I think throttle response and running out of breath have more to do with fuel mapping and other factors than with gear ratios.

On highways in 5th I'd like it to rev about 1000 rpm lower than it does for comfort. To address this, you'll need a "lower" final ratio, most easily attained by going up a tooth or two on the front sprocket. But, since your source does not offer larger than 16, you could accomplish the same effect by going down the appropriate number of teeth on the rear sprocket and leave the front alone.

The formula is (and you probably know this): Divide the # on rear by # on front = number of teeth on rear needed to equal 1 tooth on the front. So, in your case, it would require going down 2.94 (3) teeth on the rear to equate to going up 1 tooth on front which would result in a lower engine rpm at any given road speed.

My plan is to pick up an extra sprocket carrier for the rear and run two sets.
15/49 for fun and 16/44 for commuting. (edit: wrote 17/44 first, but JT only makes 16, see chart below)

49/15 = 3.27 off road
44/16 = 2.75 highway

What do you think of this? ... if you think those ratios will work for you, for a little less hassle why not just run a 15 on the front and swap out only the rear when you want different gearing? Like this...

49/15 = 3.27 off road
41/15 = 2.73 highway

As an alternate thought, if you try the 41/15 to lower engine rpm's at highway speed, your engine speed in 1st gear would also be lowered ... maybe it would be lowered enough to comfortably plunk around in 1st while your buddies are in 2nd (?). The downside is that it might lower rpm's in 1st gear so much that takeoff from a stop would require a lot of clutch slipping, I don't know, I haven't ridden one.

Just my $.02 FWIW ...

Might have confused everyone inluding myself more with that one
Though I lurk in the F650GS/Dakar threads, I'm actually riding a Thruxtonized Bonneville right now.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252051&page=49
Being an '04, it has the 790cc with a standard 17 tooth on front. At 70 mph, I'm always wanting a 6th gear. The newer models have the more potent 865cc with an 18 on front. 865 guys often go to a 19, but all the forums I've read say that if I go as far as 19 on my 790, I won't have the low end grunt I need from a stop that the increased power and torque of the 865 compensates for.

I haven't tried the changeover yet, but I plan to experiment and see what feels right to ME. Until then, it's all just theory. You should do the same ... after all, it's only time and money!
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Old 04-08-2009, 09:18 PM   #225
jdaniele
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Just my .02 here. I switched to 16-49 sprockets and love it a bit more on the bottom and you really dont feel that much of a change up top. accleration is better too. I think the 16-49 should have been the stock gearing on this bike.
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