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Old 06-16-2010, 12:51 PM   #2551
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdo1uk
cant get on there. im not paid up.... :-(
well the forks and top clamp what i have that be of any use to you.

make offer.

but hey get a bike 1st and then see what you need to do
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Old 06-16-2010, 01:12 PM   #2552
notmybikemodelname
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
Well, you COULD do that... But I wouldn't really recommend it. Not when you can do this instead. Oh, yes I almost forgot: The Dakar comes with a 21" front wheel, and the 650GS a 19". You might want to swap that as well.
You also forgot that the Dakar comes with a bigger set of balls as well.
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Old 06-16-2010, 01:26 PM   #2553
herrhelmet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
You also forgot that the Dakar comes with a bigger set of balls as well.

+They're actually the heaviest part of the bike, but never remove them to save weight!
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Old 06-16-2010, 02:16 PM   #2554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
You also forgot that the Dakar comes with a bigger set of balls as well.
Well, I guess that's why some of us didn't need to buy a Dakar in the first place.
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Old 06-16-2010, 03:43 PM   #2555
notmybikemodelname
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
Well, I guess that's why some of us didn't need to buy a Dakar in the first place.
I hear ya. I didn't need to, I chose to
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:20 PM   #2556
rmarkr
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Follow up to post # 2519 - ABS warning lamp wiring

Firstly - I got the lamp to work!!.......and there was no puff of smoke.......and nothing got hot or buzzed.

I connected this transistor. It was bought almost at random out of an array of transistors (I know fuck all about them)




I connected the 'base' to the line from the ABS controller,
the 'collector' to earth
the 'emiiter' to the lamp

The polarity of the line from the ABS controller is -ve.

We'll see if it works over the long haul, but I suspect that a resistor is required somewhere in the circuit.
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:19 PM   #2557
andyhb
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Fork springs

Just checking on opinions regarding Wilbers v Touratech fork springs, and differences (if there are any) Looking at a spring and oil upgrade to 10w.
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Old 06-18-2010, 10:15 PM   #2558
Philmeup
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Thanks guys for your suggestions re my fork seal
got a better idea now on what to do.
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:34 AM   #2559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
Well, I guess that's why some of us didn't need to buy a Dakar in the first place.
Burn !
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Old 06-19-2010, 11:19 PM   #2560
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Problem while traveling thru Uzbekistan, burned wiring harness

Long shot, very long shot, but here we go. I am on my 2007 Dakar in Uzbekistan. The plan was to travel to Mongolia and back. Yesterday afternoon I burned up a substantial portion of my wiring harness. My own damn fault, details later, internet time is short. I have exposed the burned portion, above the right hand top engine support bolt, between 2 and 8 inches from the relay panel. Not too much is actually burned up, but it has turned into one molten mess. I am going to try to sort it out, but it does not look very good, chances are very slim. Does anybody have or know of a scrapped Dakar with a wiring harness I can buy?

Also, my own dealer is closed on Mondays. Which of the "parts over the internet" BMW dealers is open on Mondays. I may have to order a new harness.

Is the USA Dakar wiring harness diferent from the European wiring harness? I know sopme of the devices are different, but not sure of the wiring?

Any other suggestions for fixing this mess?

Any help is appreciated.

KP
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Old 06-20-2010, 12:58 AM   #2561
tmotten
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Keep it simple. It doesn't need to be a neat fix at this stage. Leave that till you get back. If it would be me, I'd cut out the section of the loom and replace it wire by wire with new wires. That would have to be less work than replace the whole loom. I've done a lot of electrical work so am comfortable with a soldering iron, but that was not always so. If you're not, you can use crimp terminals. Anything that will close the circuit, is water proof and stays together under constant vibrations will do.

I'm assuming that you've untaped everything and can identify the different colours. AND have clear access. Sounds like you would have to (if you haven't already done so) strip it down to like you would have to do the valve check.

Mongolia will most likely be the highlight of your trip, so anything that will make that happen will be good.
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Old 06-20-2010, 01:40 AM   #2562
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+1

Think I'd try to replace the melted wires first before replacing the entire harness.

You know of this site ofcourse - Enter your BMW Serial Number (last 7 digits of your VIN) and it'll give you the part numbers (and prices): http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do...0061200&arch=0

As far as I can tell they didn't make a USA Dakar after 2006
I just checked the first harness listed for both bikes and they seem to be the same. Your VIN will tell you which part you need.

(Prod code 0186)Dakar 12/2006 USA (w/ ABS part no. 61117680405): http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...69&hg=61&fg=05

(Prod code 0176) Dakar 01/2007 Europe (w/ ABS part no. 61117680405): http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...68&hg=61&fg=05

Good luck !
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 06-20-2010, 03:14 AM   #2563
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I've posted this in the Rotax tuning thread, but as I've no idea which threads people are reading I'll chuck it up here aswell.

I have K&N filter and a Staintune and I've never really considered it 'till now, but which FI helpers are out there ? Which ones work alright and which ones only look alright ? What do they do and id there are any downsides ?

I had my bike on the Dyno after fitting the K&N and Staintune and got 38,6 hp on the wheel - 49,3 NM torque. I later discovered (a year or so later that the throttle cable was in the wrong notch, but I've no idea if it was in the correct notch during the Dyno test (replaced the headgasket in the meantime)

f650.com: http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/DynoRunsFAQGS.htm

I've found this. Techlusion FI-1031 (which I think is the same as the "Fuel nanny" ?), but are there any other magic boxes out there ? It seems there are little gain in power, but it runs better/ cleaner ?

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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 06-20-2010, 05:17 AM   #2564
wswartzwel
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I made my own... Got bosch connecters online and the rest at Radio Shack. Works great and is adjustable depending on how much fuel you need to add to compensate for various intake/exhaust mods.

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Old 06-20-2010, 06:02 AM   #2565
khpossum
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prob lem in uzbek with wiring harness

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
Keep it simple. It doesn't need to be a neat fix at this stage. Leave that till you get back. If it would be me, I'd cut out the section of the loom and replace it wire by wire with new wires. That would have to be less work than replace the whole loom. I've done a lot of electrical work so am comfortable with a soldering iron, but that was not always so. If you're not, you can use crimp terminals. Anything that will close the circuit, is water proof and stays together under constant vibrations will do.

I'm assuming that you've untaped everything and can identify the different colours. AND have clear access. Sounds like you would have to (if you haven't already done so) strip it down to like you would have to do the valve check.

Mongolia will most likely be the highlight of your trip, so anything that will make that happen will be good.
Gravelseeker and TMotten, thanks for your respo0nse. I am tryingh to stay positive, but it is hard, it is such a mess and in such an obnoxious place. there must be 40 or 50 wires of different sizes melted together or with burned insulation. I can solder pretty good. I will need shrink tube,, not sure if I can find that here. prob will have to remove the harness form that area to get acess.

I will have to get the relay panel probably removed to have any chance to get to all the cable ends. Is the cable harness connected to it with connectors or is it solidly connected?

Other question, what are the odds that shorting some of the computer sensor wires fried the computer? how sensitive is that thing? any expereince there?

KP

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