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Old 12-10-2012, 11:24 AM   #9631
kubiak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
Clutch on my 03 Dakar is now pushing 82K miles with no problems whatsoever, if you don't include the two clutch cables that wore out. BTW, I've always run non-synthetic 20W50 motorcycle oil (BMW or Valvoline) changed at 5K mile intervals with filter.
i been running 10-40 regular mc oil but was wondering if i should run 20-50 in the summer? i ride in weather from mid 30s to about 110f degrees. is the 20-50 ok to run in the cold on these motors?
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:58 PM   #9632
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Originally Posted by kubiak View Post
i been running 10-40 regular mc oil but was wondering if i should run 20-50 in the summer? i ride in weather from mid 30s to about 110f degrees. is the 20-50 ok to run in the cold on these motors?
My bike is inside a garage unless I'm on the road overnight, usually camping, but here in Alabama the temperatures range from around 15-20F at the coldest (only a few days a year) to around 101-103F at the hottest. I got the bike with 4K miles and today it's got 81,6xx miles and I've never had any issues relating to oil. It's never used or burned a drop either.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:49 PM   #9633
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My bike is inside a garage unless I'm on the road overnight, usually camping, but here in Alabama the temperatures range from around 15-20F at the coldest (only a few days a year) to around 101-103F at the hottest. I got the bike with 4K miles and today it's got 81,6xx miles and I've never had any issues relating to oil. It's never used or burned a drop either.
thats good to know, i wanted your thoughts on oil since you got so many miles on your dakar. thanks!
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:25 AM   #9634
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Thanks for the tip on removing the bearings.

I put the casing on the barbecue left it for 10 minutes and the bearing dropped right out!



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Old 12-12-2012, 05:56 PM   #9635
Mr.Dabalina
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Getting ready to order some handlebar risers. On the website it says I can only go as high as 20mm without having to extend the brake lines. Is this true? Anyone have 35mm risers that were able to put them on without having to extend/modify anything on the bike. I have an '05 Dakar with heated grips, abs, stock hand guards, and stock windscreen.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:09 PM   #9636
WayneC1
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Consider carefully whether fitting risers is appropriate especially with stock bars and peg positioning, you may well find it a waste of money and that it simply cramps your arms when up on the pegs and forces your stance vertical more vertical preventing balancing against the wind at higher speeds.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:13 PM   #9637
LoJack
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I've got risers and for a while had flat bars on. I really liked the position but the handguards ran into the fairing badly.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:07 PM   #9638
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You can sculpt out the lower section of the screen to increase clearance, 1/2 round wood rasp works well, it has the added bonus of eliminating visor buffeting
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:15 AM   #9639
Mr.Dabalina
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I am 6'1". When standing on the pegs I am too hunched over. I had to google it, but I will give the wood rasp a go. I just thought those were just a wood file.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:36 AM   #9640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Dabalina View Post
Getting ready to order some handlebar risers. On the website it says I can only go as high as 20mm without having to extend the brake lines. Is this true? Anyone have 35mm risers that were able to put them on without having to extend/modify anything on the bike. I have an '05 Dakar with heated grips, abs, stock hand guards, and stock windscreen.
FWIW...On my Dakar - which does not have heated grips - I used the Touratech 35mm risers with no cable length problems.

After the bike was rear-ended in a 2010 accident I replaced the BMW front end with one from a YZ-F and simultaneously added more height with Moose 2" risers and ProTaper fat bars that are higher than the stock bars, and still no issues with cable length.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:46 AM   #9641
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Re the wood rasp

In swapping out the bars on mine I had the clearance problems and experimented and found the 1/2 round was the best at sculpting the perspex. It kept a good smooth curve in place while I was doing it & I made a paper template to keep each side consistent

Bars with less rake also ease the clearances as well. The stock bars have way too much rake. Moving the pegs back will also ease your problems
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:11 AM   #9642
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Originally Posted by THX_337 View Post
Thanks for the advice guys. I picked up option #1. It is ready to go long distance touring.

Wife and I went for a little ride today. She likes it. My son needs to gets signed up for MSR classes here in Wa... He is trying hard to hide his excitement. I can tell.

One thing I want to do in install the rear mud guard. It was removed and a aluminum chain guard was put on instead. On our ride today it was wet. The entire back of the back of the bike was soaked and dirty. In contrast My R1200GSA is very clean back there. Luckily, he gave me all the original OEM parts, so I will swap it out at some point.

The front springs were replaced with "Race Tech" performance race springs. The seller said it came that way when he bought it. He included the original springs and hardware. Not sure I want to touch it. It all seems very good. However, would like advice as to the pros/cons of the "Race Tech" springs. Anything I should be concerned about?

One other thing... He'd ran synthetic oil. BMW service here doesn't recommend using synthetic in the f650 s because of the wet clutch... I will be changing the oil soon.

BTW: my wife's previous bike was a lowered f650,. She said this one feels more like a "boy bike".. Less feminine. I guess that is good news for my son when he starts riding it. Can't let him be seen on a girls bike I guess.


Race Tech springs are high quality upgrades, if it feels good don't change it. Their gold valve cartridge emulators are the next step forward...
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:14 PM   #9643
GrizzLee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
Race Tech springs are high quality upgrades, if it feels good don't change it. Their gold valve cartridge emulators are the next step forward...
Thx... So far so good.

Took the boy out today for his first riding lessons today. He dumped it 6 times.... Mostly due to jack rabbit starts.

I'm trying to get him used to the friction zone. As he has never driven a standard transmission car, the feel is different for him. Mom on the other hand took off flying last year on her f650.

Btw: checked with two bmw service centers, they say no to synthetic oil on all f650 singles. They aren't sure why, but bmw corporate apparently instructs them to recommend strictly Dino oil.

They both mentioned that shifting into neutral can be a challenge on the 650s And recommended placing the bike into neutral while rolling and tapping the brakes to slack the chain. I tried it and it works well. My wife's 2003 650 shifts just fine... Not sure why this one is different.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:16 PM   #9644
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Brake & clutch lever recommendations

I need to replace the brake and clutch levers. Any advice? The oem ones are $$$$. I want something that works with the current oem hand guards as they don't seem to interfere with th wind screen. The previous owner cut the knobs off and had installed non oem guards. They hit the wind screen and I don't like them. So, off they went and on with the oem guards.. Which are a bit scuffed now due to my son dumping the bike. But that's ok. When he's a seasoned pro, I'll replace them or... he can ... Hopefully he will adopt the bike as his own when he starts working :-)
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GrizzLee screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 08:13 PM
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:38 PM   #9645
WayneC1
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There are threads on low cost levers over at f650, Dennis Kirk is one supplier from memory
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