The 650 Dakar Thread

[Seventh]

Thanks - I'll do the side stand switch first, then voltage, then tear the bike down. Appreciated, divimon2000.

[africa twin]

Originally Posted by Seventh

Hi folks,

Happy holidays! Been lurking here and on f650.com, and my bike is dying. I've tried all the fixes short of replacing the injector.

http://youtu.be/bIEjxdghhsU

This is a 2004 Twin Spark BMW F650GS. It's been dying at speed on the freeway, usually on 5th at 80kph, with a loss of power, a tach flux, and a sputter, followed by a panicked coast from the fast lane to the shoulder. There's a dead spot right there too - on those times it doesn't die, it simply gives no power.

It's been in and out of the dealers' very expensive service bay with no results, and the money I gave them could have been used to buy gasoline to burn the bike and make s'mores. Here's what's been done:

1. Fuel filter replaced
2. Fuel pump replaced
3. Spark plugs replaced
4. Injector cleaned
5. Oil changed
6. Battery changed

I took it out this morning, and there's an improvement - it's dying regularly, and I can replicate the error. Does anyone have any other options?

I had a friend that had a similar issue and it turned out to be a broken wire in the harness somewhere behind the headlight. When he turned the handlebar the engine would splutter or die. It took a while to find it because it would only happen on the highway when there was a wind from a certain direction and the handlebar was being turned very slightly to counter the wind. The dead spot was only very slightly off centre turning the handlebar further restored the connection and it ran fine again. I believe it was one of the wires that ultimately ends up at the ignition switch. Anyway worth a try start the bike and with it running try turning the bar slowly left and or right and see if it makes a difference.

[Seventh]

Thanks Africa twin - did the check you recommended, but no death with handlebar rotation. Jiggled some other wires as well, but the bike died only when I left it to idle. Still haven't ruled out an electrical issue though.

On that note, divimon2000, the side stand switch does seem lose. Bike didn't die when I jiggled it, but somethings not right there. Unfortunately, the previous owner seemed to like left turns so much that he angled the side stand out such that the header keeps the switch from slipping out. I'll trace up the line and bypass it this evening after I take the missus to the mall.


Oh, and bumping up Pete in Mexico looking for a rear shock for a GS - sorry mate, good luck.

Originally Posted by mcgiggle

Hi guys,
A friend I'm riding with has blown her rear shock and needs a replacement (F650GS 2005) its the lowered version.
We're in Puerto Escondido, Mexico for the Christmas holidays, so one close to here would be fantastic and probably too much to hope for ;)
Any of you lot out there got anything?

Cheers
Pete

[WayneC1]

Both the ignition switch and RHS switch cluster are known to get broken wiring, well covered at F650, search over there

What you are saying though is it stalls at idle and has flat spot about the point the BMS moves from closed loop to open loop. I would look at the idle actuator & ensure it is clean plus check the o2 sensor and wiring, problems with these are also known to give symptoms like you describe

[yatman]

I replaced many, many items and spent big $$.....finally seemed to be the second fuel injector...after the first one was replaced under warranty...second failed 30 days after warranty on bike but was replaced under part warranty 13 months later back "home"...sad story really. Shook my confidence in my bike's 'go anywhere reputation'...even replaced cat converter in Texas, found coil bought in Mexico City was NOT for my Dakar but I trusted they new which coil(s) dual spark I needed for my bike, no spare fuel injectors in Puebla...they said get to the USA...I hobbled into Texas...stressful...had many $$ spent Texas and Nevada...as it ran intermittently perfect then crappy...I had a schizophrenic motorcycle.... but no one truly figured it all out...till a full year and thousands of kms KNOWING something wasn't right.....FUEL INJECTOR...just replace....I should have updated the thread but felt so foolish....best of luck
yatman

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=648235

[Seventh]

Appreciate the input folks.

@WayneC1, thanks, a mechanic took apart the RH cluster when we were tracing everything that had anything to do with fuel - thankfully, we found no messed up wires or anything out of place. We cleaned the throttle body as well. I haven't checked the O2 sensor yet, will do that when the bike's stripped down.

@Yatman, I FEEL YOUR PAIN. I don't trust my bike now, it's stranded me far from home several times. That same day that we did the fuel line stuff, we cleaned the injector, but didn't replace it. Mechanic pronounced it fit for service, and seeing as the part is almost $250 here, I didn't argue. But now, I'll pick an injector up.

@divimon2000, traced the sidestand switch to that heatsink looking thing, and tried to get the bike to die while jiggling the wires - nothing happened. Then I unplugged the thing entirely and the bike started. That's NOT supposed to happen AFAIK.

http://youtu.be/A_3EhF2cDQA

(Not on the video - started the bike and dropped it into first while on centerstand with the sidestand switch unplugged, then slowly let the clutch out. The chain engaged and the wheel started rolling, and the engine didn't die.)

Got it to die normally by revving to 3-4k, at which point, the engine made a God-awful KLONK and gave me an aneurysm.

My next step is to go through the harness and look for chafed wires, plus hunt for any sidestand jumper the previous owner might have put in past the heatsink-looking thing.

Is this still something electrical?

[WayneC1]

What exactly are you referring to as the heatsink looking thing ? Suspect you are referring to the Voltage Regulator

Re the wiring to ignition switch and RHS cluster the problems have been in the harness not at the switches

The mention of the bike starting with the side stand switch disconnected reminds me of another known problem with the GS. The lock out circuits rely on diodes in the electrical box behind the steering head. The solder joints on the connectors for these diodes are known fail and can also cause intermittent problems. There are a couple of threads on it at f650, the one by KathyL would be the best to look at.
The full circuits and into are here http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/...CctRepair.html and here http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/DiodeRepair.html

[Baams]

Originally Posted by Seventh

Hi folks,

Happy holidays! Been lurking here and on f650.com, and my bike is dying. I've tried all the fixes short of replacing the injector.

http://youtu.be/bIEjxdghhsU

This is a 2004 Twin Spark BMW F650GS. It's been dying at speed on the freeway, usually on 5th at 80kph, with a loss of power, a tach flux, and a sputter, followed by a panicked coast from the fast lane to the shoulder. There's a dead spot right there too - on those times it doesn't die, it simply gives no power.

It's been in and out of the dealers' very expensive service bay with no results, and the money I gave them could have been used to buy gasoline to burn the bike and make s'mores. Here's what's been done:

1. Fuel filter replaced
2. Fuel pump replaced
3. Spark plugs replaced
4. Injector cleaned
5. Oil changed
6. Battery changed

I took it out this morning, and there's an improvement - it's dying regularly, and I can replicate the error. Does anyone have any other options?

try the ignition switch, i had the same problem. I found out that if i tried to pull on the cable while the bike was running it would die.

I just forced it deeper in and taped the sucker. but i am looking into getting a new one,

take a look at gravel seekers post on page 638

[divimon2000]

Good to go thru that harness anyway, you'll find some chafing I bet. Also I forgot about the coil, someone mentioned that.

[twinrider]

I had to remove one mirror and it didn't line up properly upon screwing it back in. To avoid breaking those fragile threaded splines -- been there done that -- can someone give me a quick primary on how to install/adjust the mirror? Much appreciated.

[Seventh]

Yup, harness is up next, and with that, the diodes and the ignition switch (just in case; the symptoms aren't the same). KathyL got the electrical schema immediately, but im going to need a bit to understand. WayneC1, great site.

If that doesn't work, injector and coil are next. I'll open it up after the mad, mad Christmas rush, and hopefully something will turn up.

In the meantime, happy holidays all!

[LoJack]

Originally Posted by twinrider

I had to remove one mirror and it didn't line up properly upon screwing it back in. To avoid breaking those fragile threaded splines -- been there done that -- can someone give me a quick primary on how to install/adjust the mirror? Much appreciated.

There should be a jam nut that you tighten down once you get the mirror where you want ot to be. It might even be a two wrench job with these.

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by LoJack

There should be a jam nut that you tighten down once you get the mirror where you want ot to be. It might even be a two wrench job with these.

That's how the stock mirrors are on my 2003 Dakar. Another thing about these mirrors is that the wind will push them back at higher speeds (over 80 mph) as the ball joint isn't snug enough. What I did was to move the arm forward so even if the wind pushes the mirror back it's at the end of its range and this eliminated the issue. Having the mirror's arm forward also helps keep your forearms clear of it when standing on the bike. Good luck!

[twinrider]

Thanks for the info, unfortunately forgot which is the jam nut, the top or bottom. The one that isn't will break the threaded splines if it's tightened too much.

[LoJack]

just take it off the mount and loosen the whole thing on the mirror stem. It should rotate around the stem freely. Then put it on the bar mount. Easy-peazy.