The 650 Dakar Thread

[kubiak]

super nice job on the gs!

[ferals5]

Originally Posted by Spyker

All smiles on her new bike!

The smile says it all...great job Spyker




.

[grumpyoldbstrd]

Originally Posted by GSBS

My 03 Dakar had no issues with water pump seals until after it was crashed at 72K miles, then sat up for 18 months before I fixed it up to make it roadworthy again. 5K miles later it was dripping coolant from the weep hole in the bottom of the lefthand engine case.

So I replaced the seals and impeller at 77K miles and have been keeping a wary watch on the weep hole since. Today, 5K after replacing the seals, I noticed a single droplet of coolant on the inside of the skid plate and when I looked closer I could see it had blown down from the weep hole. I removed the faux tank trim on that side and found that the coolant overflow reservoir was still at the "Max" level, so it hasn't leaked much yet. I also checked the oil for coolant and no evidence of any there, so I'm thinking it's only the seal on the coolant side leaking and not the one for the oil side (same as it was before).

My question is about my installation of the new seals 5K miles ago. When I put those in, I simply pressed them in and reassembled. Is there some lubricant I should've used to condition the seals as well?

I've also read that the part of the engine casing where the impreller shaft seats can become wallowed out over time to an elliptical shape and this will cause premature seal failure. How do you check for this? Also, if this turns out to be the culprit, is there a "fix" for a deformed casing or do I have to just to buy another one?

Any advice from those who've gone thru this before will be greatly appreciated.

G’day GSBS,

Like you, I finally became pissed off with the rotten OEM water pump. The impeller shaft bore in the clutch cover had opened up to 10.04mm and the bore in the engine case was 10.03mm. I reckon this was allowing the impeller shaft to “flop” around too much and subsequently chew out the seals and groove the shaft.

I’ve just replaced mine with an electric water pump – (see Post 9881). Have done about 1,000kms since in some 35+ degree C days and have had no leaks and no cooling problems. The fan still comes on when required (no more than normal) and shuts off as normal. Wired it up so that the pump comes on with ignition – just tapped into the tail light wire.

The Davies Craig (DC) 9001 kit I used is almost as cheap as the OEM replacement kit – about AUD150 (on line, excluding postage). The DC unit is small & light enough to be mounted in-line. However, I did fabricate and mount a small alloy strap bracket down from one of the starter mount bolts and cable tied it to the pump for a little bit of extra support… not sure it was really required.

The DC 9001 kit provided everything I needed. Their hoses fit snugly inside the OEM hoses & the adaptor couplings were easily modified to provide a solid sleeve to enable a hose clamp.

Because of my computer illiteracy I can’t post pics (don’t know how & don’t have a Smugmug account thingy), but can send pics to an email address. If you’d like, send me a PM with an email address and I’ll send some pics. I’m happy if you then want to post the pics on this forum.

BTW, I have no affiliation with Davies Graig.

Cheers,
GOB

[Spyker]

Originally Posted by nomad5326

Beautiful job. The matte/flat black and slate decals look great. Are those Got2motographics.com ones? He made mine for all my bikes and love them. The Pink rocks!

Yes, the decals are from him. I actually shamelessly copied your Dakar, apart from the red subframe. I printed a copy of one of the photos of your bike and pinned it up in the garage. Was my source for inspiration!

[nomad5326]

I can't take all the credit. PO did the frame and front swap. I just had the front/rear suspension rebuilt and did the re-shoeing, bodywork /repainting and guards.

[ferals5]

Originally Posted by grumpyoldbstrd

G’day GSBS,

Like you, I finally became pissed off with the rotten OEM water pump. The impeller shaft bore in the clutch cover had opened up to 10.04mm and the bore in the engine case was 10.03mm. I reckon this was allowing the impeller shaft to “flop” around too much and subsequently chew out the seals and groove the shaft.

I’ve just replaced mine with an electric water pump – (see Post 9881). Have done about 1,000kms since in some 35+ degree C days and have had no leaks and no cooling problems. The fan still comes on when required (no more than normal) and shuts off as normal. Wired it up so that the pump comes on with ignition – just tapped into the tail light wire.

The Davies Craig (DC) 9001 kit I used is almost as cheap as the OEM replacement kit – about AUD150 (on line, excluding postage). The DC unit is small & light enough to be mounted in-line. However, I did fabricate and mount a small alloy strap bracket down from one of the starter mount bolts and cable tied it to the pump for a little bit of extra support… not sure it was really required.

The DC 9001 kit provided everything I needed. Their hoses fit snugly inside the OEM hoses & the adaptor couplings were easily modified to provide a solid sleeve to enable a hose clamp.

Because of my computer illiteracy I can’t post pics (don’t know how & don’t have a Smugmug account thingy), but can send pics to an email address. If you’d like, send me a PM with an email address and I’ll send some pics. I’m happy if you then want to post the pics on this forum.

BTW, I have no affiliation with Davies Graig.

Cheers,
GOB

GOB's pics

[seanfenick]

Okay I guess nobody will help. Thanks anyways

[1911fan]

Originally Posted by seanfenick

I have an easy question to answer an one that is a little more difficult, & one that probably a little easier to answer. The easy one first. What is the most common problem that makes an abs light, light up? Second when I gear down to first for when I'm stopping more often then not my bike is going into neutral. The third my bike likes to cut off within like 10 minutes from starting it from a cold start. Any ideas????

Had to go back a bit to find your question.

1) Not a simple question. The ABS system goes to the front and rear wheels, with wires and a pump/reservoir under the seat. I've heard the most common fault is the rear sensor being bumped out of position or the mounting bolt gets loose and it moves; check the front also. More below. (I'm considering removing my system entirely.)
2) Not unusual, at least IMHO.Mine does it frequently, so I usually just downshift to neutral and then into first when I'm stopped or nearly stopped.
3) No idea. Pretty sure your bike is at operating temp by then, so it's not a sensor/closed loop problem. Does it start right back up, or do you have either wait a while and then it starts, or does it start right up but have to crank a long time? Check your sidestand switch, too.

1 and 3 may require the MW diagnostic computer to find.

1911fan

[BeachGuy]

Need some new clutch and brake levers, has anyone tried these yet, ad list the F650 GS on it's site.

Ebay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-F800-F80...sories&vxp=mtr

BMW F800 F800GS F800ST 06 07 08 09 10 12 Black Red Brake Clutch Levers

Or any better suggestions.

[Gravel Seeker]

Originally Posted by BeachGuy

Need some new clutch and brake levers, has anyone tried these yet, ad list the F650 GS on it's site.

Ebay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-F800-F80...sories&vxp=mtr

BMW F800 F800GS F800ST 06 07 08 09 10 12 Black Red Brake Clutch Levers

Or any better suggestions.

Without checkeing your link; beware that BMW royally fucked up when they renamed the single to the "G" and intruduced the new paralell twin as "F"....
F650GS after a certain year is actually an 800cc street version of the F800 GS.... confused yet ?

[Ebbs15]

Originally Posted by seanfenick

I have an easy question to answer an one that is a little more difficult, & one thtat probably a little easier to answer. The easy one first. What is the most common problem that makes an abs light, light up? Second when I gear down to first for when I'm stopping more often then not my bike is going into neutral. The third my bike likes to cut off within like 10 minutes from starting it from a cold start. Any ideas????

this got buried... but don't know much about 1. as I don't have ABS on my 01... 2. I've had trouble with that from time to time, just had to make it a deliberate shift, ie don't be lazy about it, shift with a purpose. never had it stop at neutral when I was doing that.. and 3.. again... I'm no help... sorry

[GSBS]

Now that my 2003 Dakar is approaching 85K miles, I'm looking for a good condition Rotax engine to buy and keep on hand as a spare.

I'm looking on here, Craigslist and eBay and for some reason all the attractively-priced ones seem to always be on the other side of the country, meaning that shipping is a deal-breaker. I'm hoping to find one within a day's drive of me here in north Alabama.

Also, it seems the best prices I'm finding are for the CS and S engines that powered the belt-driven models.

I'm wondering whether the shaft for the engine drive pulley on the belt models is the same as the one on the countershaft sprocket on chain-driven models. In other words, could the pulley be removed and a CS sprocket installed?

If anyone knows, please advise. Also, are there any other known differences between the S and CS models and GS models of the EFI engines?

Thanks!

[dwayne]

You could check Max BMW's online parts diagrams and compare part numbers for the output shafts on each bike? If the PN's are the same it's a no brainer.

Edit: Just checked PN no matchy. The only things that may be different is the spline for the sprocket, and there may be a different shoulder/shoulder spacing behind the sprocket/pulley. FYI the CS model shaft is about $270, but no price is listed for the Dakar shaft because of a superseded pn.

Originally Posted by GSBS

Now that my 2003 Dakar is approaching 85K miles, I'm looking for a good condition Rotax engine to buy and keep on hand as a spare.

I'm looking on here, Craigslist and eBay and for some reason all the attractively-priced ones seem to always be on the other side of the country, meaning that shipping is a deal-breaker. I'm hoping to find one within a day's drive of me here in north Alabama.

Also, it seems the best prices I'm finding are for the CS and S engines that powered the belt-driven models.

I'm wondering whether the shaft for the engine drive pulley on the belt models is the same as the one on the countershaft sprocket on chain-driven models. In other words, could the pulley be removed and a CS sprocket installed?

If anyone knows, please advise. Also, are there any other known differences between the S and CS models and GS models of the EFI engines?

Thanks!

[GSBS]

Originally Posted by dwayne

You could check Max BMW's online parts diagrams and compare part numbers for the output shafts on each bike? If the PN's are the same it's a no brainer.

Edit: Just checked PN no matchy. The only things that may be different is the spline for the sprocket, and there may be a different shoulder/shoulder spacing behind the sprocket/pulley. FYI the CS model shaft is about $270, but no price is listed for the Dakar shaft because of a superseded pn.

Thanks for the info! I guess that's why the CS engines are going for less. Oh well.

[ylc]

hi guys.. I have got a front brake issue.If I pull very slowly on my front brake lever the lever will come back all the way to the grip without engaging the front brake. If I pull back faster the break engages normally and the lever acts normally.. bike is 2005 dakar.rear brake and abs working fine. fluids are replaced and bleed.no air in the system. i bought front brake master cylinder repair kit and changed master cylinder and seals.but still does not work as should be. any ideas about that. thanks