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Old 02-15-2013, 06:46 PM   #9961
seanfenick
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Tha BSL
Oddometer: 101
First of all thank you for your inputs I will put them into the works tomorrow. When the bike cuts off I have to double the starter time but starts right up after that. No further problems after that. I was thinking of taking the tank off and cleaning it. I have had a lot if problems out of this bike. I have had to replace the electrical system, fuel system, fuel tank, and the computer. I think all of this came from the previous owner. The major problem is that the bmw dealership is 3 hours away do I have done this all myself
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:47 PM   #9962
seanfenick
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Ylc. It sounds like you might need to get a master cylinder!!!!
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Old 02-16-2013, 04:30 AM   #9963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ylc View Post
hi guys.. I have got a front brake issue.If I pull very slowly on my front brake lever the lever will come back all the way to the grip without engaging the front brake. If I pull back faster the break engages normally and the lever acts normally.. bike is 2005 dakar.rear brake and abs working fine. fluids are replaced and bleed.no air in the system. i bought front brake master cylinder repair kit and changed master cylinder and seals.but still does not work as should be. any ideas about that. thanks
Bad hose?
Just thinking out loud, if it perhaps gives in a spot. I really don't know though as I've never had the same problem
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:50 AM   #9964
KG6BWS
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Well fuck....

After wiping out pretty hard couple weekends ago, I decided I was feeling up to a ride tomorrow. Went out to change the oil, adjust the clutch and a few other things.

In the process of adjusting the clutch lever at the engine, something made a bit of a popping noise and the lever went completely loose. I turned it with a pair of vise grips (gently) and it felt ok, put the lever back on, started the bike and as soon as I pulled in the clutch lever to test shift it into 1st it made the most godawful clacking noise from the clutch. Drops into 1st with a nasty banging noise, shifts into 2nd with an even worse banging noise.

It does shift and the clutch does work, it just sounds like somethings falling apart in there.

Any ideas what to look for? I have not yet pulled the side cover off, and considering my never having done it before, Im considering just taking it into the BMW dealer. Yes its expensive and I cant really afford it but Im wondering if it might be worth the expense in the long run.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Im also headed over to the F650 FAQ right now.

PS - After my wipeouts, it rode fine for the 80 or so miles back home at highway speeds, including some surface streets with traffic signals and lots of shifting.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:07 PM   #9965
ferals5
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Goulburn, Australia
Oddometer: 999
Quote:
Originally Posted by KG6BWS View Post
Well fuck....

After wiping out pretty hard couple weekends ago, I decided I was feeling up to a ride tomorrow. Went out to change the oil, adjust the clutch and a few other things.

In the process of adjusting the clutch lever at the engine, something made a bit of a popping noise and the lever went completely loose. I turned it with a pair of vise grips (gently) and it felt ok, put the lever back on, started the bike and as soon as I pulled in the clutch lever to test shift it into 1st it made the most godawful clacking noise from the clutch. Drops into 1st with a nasty banging noise, shifts into 2nd with an even worse banging noise.

It does shift and the clutch does work, it just sounds like somethings falling apart in there.

Any ideas what to look for? I have not yet pulled the side cover off, and considering my never having done it before, Im considering just taking it into the BMW dealer. Yes its expensive and I cant really afford it but Im wondering if it might be worth the expense in the long run.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Im also headed over to the F650 FAQ right now.

PS - After my wipeouts, it rode fine for the 80 or so miles back home at highway speeds, including some surface streets with traffic signals and lots of shifting.
KG6BWS it's the same as doing a water pump so rip the cover off and have a looksee, banging into gear is the clutch not disengaging at all, sounds like maybe the lever went to far and pushed the bearing back inside the clutch pack.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:24 PM   #9966
KG6BWS
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Location: Canyon Country, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferals5 View Post
KG6BWS it's the same as doing a water pump so rip the cover off and have a looksee, banging into gear is the clutch not disengaging at all, sounds like maybe the lever went to far and pushed the bearing back inside the clutch pack.
Yeah Im gonna get it towed to my parents house where I can work on it.

I was out messing with it a little. When I took ALL of the adjustment out of the clutch, I could just get it to roll, although I could feel the motor trying to turn also. When I started the bike though, and dropped it into gear, it would stall out.

Ive never had to do a water pump on it. I did download a manual for it though, so Ive now got a fair idea on what I need to do.
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:07 PM   #9967
dwayne
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Location: wheelie in purgatory, Calgary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG6BWS View Post
Yeah Im gonna get it towed to my parents house where I can work on it.

I was out messing with it a little. When I took ALL of the adjustment out of the clutch, I could just get it to roll, although I could feel the motor trying to turn also. When I started the bike though, and dropped it into gear, it would stall out.

Ive never had to do a water pump on it. I did download a manual for it though, so Ive now got a fair idea on what I need to do.
Is it possible for the tower shaft that goes into the case has been over rotated?
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:29 PM   #9968
tomatoe333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwayne View Post
Is it possible for the tower shaft that goes into the case has been over rotated?
It's definitely possible. And if that happens, there's a pinion and rack mechanism in there that can get out of sync, or get damaged.

Approach it like you're changing out the water pump seals/shaft. In fact, if you've never done that, it would be a perfect time. While the cover is off, take a careful look at the tower shaft and the rack piece in the case, it's obvious with things apart how it works.

Good luck, Kilo Golf Six Bravo Whiskey Sierra.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:10 PM   #9969
Don Coyote
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Location: Southwestern Great Lakes Region
Oddometer: 1,145
To run with this commiseration topic, my engine took a turn for the worse tonight. Every winter for the 5 years i've owned it, it has shown oil distribution problems, namely by leaking oil from the top of the engine on seemingly random days. After the dealer and another mechanic failed to provide a fix or even a convincing explanation, it seemed there was no measurable loss of oil or oil pressure so i figured at least the oil was acting to prevent corrosion and let it be. However, tonight the oil light did finally come on. It had been sitting in a parking lot for 6 hours while the temp went from about 20F to under 10. At first it was flickering and i figured it would heat up and flow better, but the light got solid and the engine started to sound noticeably clankier.

The oil tank is over full, definitely higher on the dipstick than it was when i last changed the oil. I'm looking at the flat oil circuit diagram in the manual, but have trouble envisioning what all those parts actually are on the engine. Any clue where i would look to find something that is freezing up in cold, frosty weather and preventing oil from reaching the pressure sensor? Something that would cause small amounts of oil to leak out in all directions from the top of the engine? From the chain gang faqs it looks like the sensor itself would cause a leak that showed up like this, but that would not explain the blockage preventing the oil circulation...
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:41 PM   #9970
WayneC1
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The sensor is a known failure point, there are 2 variations of sensor and on the G Series they relocated where it mounts, I assume to reduce vibration
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:44 PM   #9971
dwayne
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Location: wheelie in purgatory, Calgary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
To run with this commiseration topic, my engine took a turn for the worse tonight. Every winter for the 5 years i've owned it, it has shown oil distribution problems, namely by leaking oil from the top of the engine on seemingly random days. After the dealer and another mechanic failed to provide a fix or even a convincing explanation, it seemed there was no measurable loss of oil or oil pressure so i figured at least the oil was acting to prevent corrosion and let it be. However, tonight the oil light did finally come on. It had been sitting in a parking lot for 6 hours while the temp went from about 20F to under 10. At first it was flickering and i figured it would heat up and flow better, but the light got solid and the engine started to sound noticeably clankier.

The oil tank is over full, definitely higher on the dipstick than it was when i last changed the oil. I'm looking at the flat oil circuit diagram in the manual, but have trouble envisioning what all those parts actually are on the engine. Any clue where i would look to find something that is freezing up in cold, frosty weather and preventing oil from reaching the pressure sensor? Something that would cause small amounts of oil to leak out in all directions from the top of the engine? From the chain gang faqs it looks like the sensor itself would cause a leak that showed up like this, but that would not explain the blockage preventing the oil circulation...

Not only would a sensor leak show up like that, it could also cause the oil light to illuminate.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:10 AM   #9972
africa twin
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[QUOTE=Don Coyote;20743369]To run with this commiseration topic, my engine took a turn for the worse tonight. Every winter for the 5 years i've owned it, it has shown oil distribution problems, namely by leaking oil from the top of the engine on seemingly random days. After the dealer and another mechanic failed to provide a fix or even a convincing explanation, it seemed there was no measurable loss of oil or oil pressure so i figured at least the oil was acting to prevent corrosion and let it be. However, tonight the oil light did finally come on. It had been sitting in a parking lot for 6 hours while the temp went from about 20F to under 10. At first it was flickering and i figured it would heat up and flow better, but the light got solid and the engine started to sound noticeably clankier.

If the engine was noticeably "clunkier" it may be that you actually don't have any oil oil pressure and the sensor is working correctly and doing its job even if it is leaking. Be careful running the engine till you figure out for sure.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:15 AM   #9973
KG6BWS
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Location: Canyon Country, Ca
Oddometer: 895
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
It's definitely possible. And if that happens, there's a pinion and rack mechanism in there that can get out of sync, or get damaged.

Approach it like you're changing out the water pump seals/shaft. In fact, if you've never done that, it would be a perfect time. While the cover is off, take a careful look at the tower shaft and the rack piece in the case, it's obvious with things apart how it works.

Good luck, Kilo Golf Six Bravo Whiskey Sierra.
Well AAA is on its way.


That there is what Im afraid of. I found some pictures on F650.com that showed the teeth pretty much ground away. Starting to think that might be whats wrong here. WHen I get it all apart, depending on what I find, Im going to do the clutch and the water pump. At 50k+ miles, its gotta be time for a clutch anyways. The pump doesnt leak at all, but what the hell, if Im going to all this trouble I might as well just do the seals as well.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:29 AM   #9974
GSBS
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Location: Blount Springs, AL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG6BWS View Post
Well AAA is on its way.


That there is what Im afraid of. I found some pictures on F650.com that showed the teeth pretty much ground away. Starting to think that might be whats wrong here. WHen I get it all apart, depending on what I find, Im going to do the clutch and the water pump. At 50k+ miles, its gotta be time for a clutch anyways. The pump doesnt leak at all, but what the hell, if Im going to all this trouble I might as well just do the seals as well.
FWIW, 83K miles on my 2003 Dakar clutch and no problems so far. The water pump seals began leaking and I replaced at 77K miles and now they're leaking again (at least the outside seal is letting some coolant pass). If it were me and the seals weren't leaking I'd leave them alone until they do and just have the repair kit ready for when it does. My 2.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:36 AM   #9975
1911fan
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Location: North Central Washington
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Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
If it were me and the seals weren't leaking I'd leave them alone until they do and just have the repair kit ready for when it does. My 2.
I'm the other way- bike's apart, it's all right there- anything accessible will be replaced with new parts. Seals, impeller, clutch discs, whatever. I don't want to go back in six months.


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