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Old 02-17-2013, 07:50 AM   #9976
GSBS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911fan View Post
I'm the other way- bike's apart, it's all right there- anything accessible will be replaced with new parts. Seals, impeller, clutch discs, whatever. I don't want to go back in six months.


1911fan
I understand exactly what you're saying, but from everything I've read and my own experience once you change the seals they're more likely to give problems earlier the next time around. I still believe that my original seals would be fine today had the bike not sat up for 18+ months after being crashed at 72K miles. They began leaking 5K later and now after another 6K they're leaking again.

Just sayin' why fix it if it ain't broke?
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:59 AM   #9977
KG6BWS
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Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
FWIW, 83K miles on my 2003 Dakar clutch and no problems so far. The water pump seals began leaking and I replaced at 77K miles and now they're leaking again (at least the outside seal is letting some coolant pass). If it were me and the seals weren't leaking I'd leave them alone until they do and just have the repair kit ready for when it does. My 2.
I was thinking about that. According to the receipts the PO gave me, it had one water pump done at about 19k or so, and its been good ever since. I was just thinking since I was deep into it Id do them. Ill probably just play it by ear. Order the parts and keep them on hand. Dont really know anything until I get it opened up.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:36 AM   #9978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
FWIW, 83K miles on my 2003 Dakar clutch and no problems so far. The water pump seals began leaking and I replaced at 77K miles and now they're leaking again (at least the outside seal is letting some coolant pass). If it were me and the seals weren't leaking I'd leave them alone until they do and just have the repair kit ready for when it does. My 2.
Couldn't agree more - I'm in the same place, 82,000 miles and no clutch wear that I can detect.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Especially the water pump!

There are several articles on water pump R&R that will describe pulling the clutch cover - super easy, although getting it back on is kinda tricky. And of course, the first step in all of this is to cut the oil return line. This will save you much time and frustration, not to mention many $ if you do take it to the dealer. Time = $

Good luck
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:05 AM   #9979
Don Coyote
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Originally Posted by africa twin View Post
If the engine was noticeably "clunkier" it may be that you actually don't have any oil oil pressure and the sensor is working correctly and doing its job even if it is leaking. Be careful running the engine till you figure out for sure.
It started up sounding funny, but that is somewhat normal for that cold of weather. What worried me was that it didn't change after a few minutes and on the last few blocks of my 10 min ride it sounded really thin or 'tinny'. It also seemed to miss a stroke a couple of times, but that could be related to stuck links on my chain which is overdue for a lube. This is a tough time for outdoor maintenance...

I'm wondering if i should even try to start it again myself tomorrow when it gets above freezing for a while or just have it towed into the shop. If it was running off of residual oil for that whole 10 minutes, it seems like that would be pretty serious. Should it get hot enough for the temp sensor to light up before any real damage was done?
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:06 AM   #9980
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Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Bad hose?
Just thinking out loud, if it perhaps gives in a spot. I really don't know though as I've never had the same problem
thanks for the respons.I shall take into consideration

ylc screwed with this post 02-17-2013 at 10:15 AM
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:10 AM   #9981
ylc
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Originally Posted by seanfenick View Post
Ylc. It sounds like you might need to get a master cylinder!!!!
master cylinder has been changed but not work as should be.thanks anyway.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:45 PM   #9982
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thanks for the respons.I shall take into consideration
Def check the hose. Mine went like that out on a ride in the middle nowhere on some pretty rough stuff with about 50 miles to get home. There was no brake if put on hard but could feather it a bit. Noticed a very large bulge in the hose near the master cylinder when I put the brake on hard Glad it did not rupture. Made the ride home very "fun" without the use of the front brake.


Oh, and we are on page 666 of this thread!
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:15 PM   #9983
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Decided just to go ahead and do it myself, gotta learn sometime. It sounds kind of funny, but give me a big diesel motor and I can tear it down and rebuild it without even really thinking about it. Somehow these little motorcycle engines just seem like black magic to me.

Ive got the side cover off and dont see anything real obvious that could be wrong. As best as I can tell it seems all that happened is that the thrust head spun in relation to the releaser shaft, so that when I pulled the clutch handle it wouldnt pull on the pressure plates. I need to order a new clutch cover gasket, and am going to replace the shifter seal and releaser shaft seal while Im at it just for shits and giggles but I cant see anything else thats wrong. Nothing obvious at least.

Im thinking it might be a good idea to pull the clutch out just to make sure theres nothing broken that I cant see, if Im going to that trouble Im going to replace the clutch disks.

Any opinions on the matter??
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:17 PM   #9984
WayneC1
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Unless the clutch is slipping I would leave it alone, some single spark clutches slipped some didnt

If you are going to replace the clutch plates take a look at what I found re differences between single spark and dual spark clutch http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/ClutchRepair.html

When it comes to time for replacement on mine I will go with the dual spark plates. EBC now have clutch plates
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:37 PM   #9985
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Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
It started up sounding funny, but that is somewhat normal for that cold of weather. What worried me was that it didn't change after a few minutes and on the last few blocks of my 10 min ride it sounded really thin or 'tinny'. It also seemed to miss a stroke a couple of times, but that could be related to stuck links on my chain which is overdue for a lube. This is a tough time for outdoor maintenance...

I'm wondering if i should even try to start it again myself tomorrow when it gets above freezing for a while or just have it towed into the shop. If it was running off of residual oil for that whole 10 minutes, it seems like that would be pretty serious. Should it get hot enough for the temp sensor to light up before any real damage was done?
If it is running with no oil pressure the damage will be done long before it shows up on the temp light. If you really think its the sensor what I'd do is put in a known good sensor and fire it. If the light does not go out right away I'd shut it down and take it apart. FWIW i am an experienced motorcycle tech.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:06 PM   #9986
Don Coyote
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Originally Posted by africa twin View Post
If it is running with no oil pressure the damage will be done long before it shows up on the temp light. If you really think its the sensor what I'd do is put in a known good sensor and fire it. If the light does not go out right away I'd shut it down and take it apart. FWIW i am an experienced motorcycle tech.
Thanks for the advice.

So, where is the sensor? The Chain Gang FAQ says it is just above the oil filter cover but not if that is all models. I don't see anything like it behind the shock stuff in there. Is it the thing sticking out just in front of the spark plug wires?

I don't have any spare sensors around, so i'm wondering if firing it up for a few seconds as is to see if the light works and the blockage is gone is smarter than having it hauled off to the shop. Assuming it is not circulating oil but it is still salvageable, am i likely to make it much worse running it for 15-20 seconds? How long might it take to establish pressure?
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:33 PM   #9987
dwayne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
Thanks for the advice.

So, where is the sensor? The Chain Gang FAQ says it is just above the oil filter cover but not if that is all models. I don't see anything like it behind the shock stuff in there. Is it the thing sticking out just in front of the spark plug wires?

I don't have any spare sensors around, so i'm wondering if firing it up for a few seconds as is to see if the light works and the blockage is gone is smarter than having it hauled off to the shop. Assuming it is not circulating oil but it is still salvageable, am i likely to make it much worse running it for 15-20 seconds? How long might it take to establish pressure?
The sensor is on the right hand side behind the cylinder kina above the sprocket. You won't do anymore damage running it for a few seconds than might have already been done, and by the sounds of it you need a sensor anyways. Can you remind me , other than the clatter that developed on your last ride, what is leading you to believe there is a blockage? the reason I would start at the sensor is that it happened to me, oil leak, low pressure light.

You shout have pressure in 2-3 second.

On the f650 a leak at the sensor creates a low pressure at the sensor, and causes the oil light to illuminate. if the sensor body was already faulty the high viscosity cold oil could create a larger leak (cold thick oil=higher pressure) enough the cause the local low pressure indication.

If you do have an oil delivery problem the first place to check would be the cam bearings , not only are the the furthest from the oil pump, they are a hydraulic bearing (the crank bearings are roller bearings and don't need pressure like hydraulic bearings) , plus they are far easier to check.

Upon rereading your post, you may want to take a look at you coolant for any signs of oil in it (and also for traces of coolant in you oil just to rule out a faulty head gasket
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:00 AM   #9988
WayneC1
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Pics and info on the oil sensor http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/EngineSensors.html
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:27 AM   #9989
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Oh, and we are on page 666 of this thread!
I noticed too. No good should come from this page.


Looking into the future I can hear a "damn you and your oil sensor crap" here and a "I should'a never listened to your clutch advice" there
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:24 AM   #9990
KG6BWS
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I noticed too. No good should come from this page.


Looking into the future I can hear a "damn you and your oil sensor crap" here and a "I should'a never listened to your clutch advice" there
Although Im only on page 500 so I should be good.
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