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Old 02-18-2013, 08:09 AM   #9991
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Yo read it from the beginning ? I feel sorry for you and I apologise for all my posts
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:28 PM   #9992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwayne View Post
The sensor is on the right hand side behind the cylinder kina above the sprocket. You won't do anymore damage running it for a few seconds than might have already been done, and by the sounds of it you need a sensor anyways. Can you remind me , other than the clatter that developed on your last ride, what is leading you to believe there is a blockage? the reason I would start at the sensor is that it happened to me, oil leak, low pressure light.
This was the first time the oil pressure light has ever come on. The leaking of oil in cold weather has been a regular feature. As far as i can tell, there is negligible, if any, leaking in temperatures above freezing.

In the warm weather today, it started up and the light went out like normal. The clanking in the engine sounded painfully loud for about 10-20 seconds, then sounded slightly off for the next 10-15 minutes. After that it sounded pretty normal, although in my imagination the torque seemed to be lagging.

I'm gathering that there isn't anything wrong with the sensor as far as indication goes. Is there something about it that makes it likely to leak oil there anyway? Not enough to register on the dipstick, but enough to affect the supply to some part of the engine?
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:32 PM   #9993
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Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Yo read it from the beginning ? I feel sorry for you and I apologise for all my posts
I hope for his sake the cliff diving pictures are no longer up (although i think he means his posts per page is set different...)
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:40 PM   #9994
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The original oil sensor had failures on both the F650 and the GS, it was prone to clogging and was affected by vibration. BMW then moved to another and used adaptors but the adaptors were eliminated on the G650

I would not be surprised if intermittent faults and leaking occurred in one, the aftermarket replacements are low cost so a new one on will not break the bank.
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:28 PM   #9995
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Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
(although i think he means his posts per page is set different...)


Although when I get close to page 666 Im gonna have to change my post count/page again....

...If it werent for bad luck Id have no luck.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:35 PM   #9996
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Also posted in the Yammie forks thread:

Who wants to sell me their old 19" BMW wheel ?
Can work with 21", but would prefere 19" (or 17" if anyone had that made up before going with yammie forks)
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:06 AM   #9997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
This was the first time the oil pressure light has ever come on. The leaking of oil in cold weather has been a regular feature. As far as i can tell, there is negligible, if any, leaking in temperatures above freezing.

In the warm weather today, it started up and the light went out like normal. The clanking in the engine sounded painfully loud for about 10-20 seconds, then sounded slightly off for the next 10-15 minutes. After that it sounded pretty normal, although in my imagination the torque seemed to be lagging.

I'm gathering that there isn't anything wrong with the sensor as far as indication goes. Is there something about it that makes it likely to leak oil there anyway? Not enough to register on the dipstick, but enough to affect the supply to some part of the engine?
The clanking could be explained by the auto decompressor, but 10-15 seconds (was it 10 - 15 seconds or did is seem like 10 - 15 seconds?) seems kinda long.

Prior to this event, besides the leak, what lead you to the belief there was an oiling issue?

I mean there are lots of things that can lead to lack of oiling, but a slow leak from the top of the engine doesn't make the list (at least not on it's own). In fact a leak at the top of the engine is usually a sign of healthy oil pressure.

Again the easiest/cheapest things to do are:

1. Replace the sensor (this is a well documented problems, and worst case if you go and buy one, and it turns out not to be the problem, you have a spare of a part you will probably need anyway).
2. Disassemble and check the cam bearings (and check the valves while you are there)

and see what you can eliminate or confirm.

At this point everything else is speculation or BS
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:56 AM   #9998
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Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
I noticed too. No good should come from this page.


Looking into the future I can hear a "damn you and your oil sensor crap" here and a "I should'a never listened to your clutch advice" there
Ha ha, yep!
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:15 AM   #9999
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exhaust and airbox changes

I don't post very often but sure spend alot of time reading about all the bikes on this thread. What a great way to spend my winter months thinking about riding and improving my Dakar.
I do have a question though. I am going to up grade my exhaust. Will be installing the GPR trioval this spring and was wondering if I should make some changes to the air box? Those of you who have made changes what did you do and were the changes helpful or not. I ride in the rain often enough that it is a concern of mine. I have read the f650.com stuff about it and was not convinced. Thanks for all your expertise in advance.

And oh Hell yeah this is reply 10000!!!!

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Old 02-19-2013, 11:59 AM   #10000
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GPR Exhaust

I installed a GPR exhaust last year. Didn't make any changes to the bike, just bolted it on. It's been running great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Notnewchevy View Post
I don't post very often but sure spend alot of time reading about all the bikes on this thread. What a great way to spend my winter months thinking about riding and improving my Dakar.
I do have a question though. I am going to up grade my exhaust. Will be installing the GPR trioval this spring and was wondering if I should make some changes to the air box? Those of you who have made changes what did you do and were the changes helpful or not. I ride in the rain often enough that it is a concern of mine. I have read the f650.com stuff about it and was not convinced. Thanks for all your expertise in advance.

And oh Hell yeah this is reply 10000!!!!
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:01 PM   #10001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notnewchevy View Post
I do have a question though. I am going to up grade my exhaust. Will be installing the GPR trioval this spring and was wondering if I should make some changes to the air box? Those of you who have made changes what did you do and were the changes helpful or not. I ride in the rain often enough that it is a concern of mine. I have read the f650.com stuff about it and was not convinced. Thanks for all your expertise in advance.
Only change I'd make with the airbox is fitting a non-paper filter. Either a K&N or Uni. Simply because if you do suck some water in the intake, the paper filter is toast.

Airbox and snorkel on my Dakar are stock, and I've forded a body of water that came up to the bottom of the headlight, without sucking any water into the airbox. I stopped and opened the drain just to make sure, but the bike ran fine the whole way and nothing came out.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #10002
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With the stock manifold and the stock airbox, it's simply not possible to gain a noticeable change in HP.


Changing the stock exhaust to a good sport exhaust will maybe get you 1, if you are lucky 2 HP.
But that's pretty much it without changing a lot of other factors such as fabbing a custom airbox with a higher volume and more/bigger intakes and, of course also a bigger air filter, which would require moving the battery behind the engine or putting a small ballistic one under the seat and fabbing up a new oil tank to be put behind the engine. On the other end of it, you'd need to add a manifold with a bigger diameter (~50 millimeters is a good start) along with an pretty much straight through exhaust and refined camshafts and a different engine mapping to allow it to breathe freely.

You could theoretically get up to 60 HP this way, but it's not like that's too easy to do. It wouldn't be cheap either.

Plus you should have in mind that the bike will be very loud, then. We are talking about over 90 db. Believe me, that is freaking loud, on the plus side it's a pretty nice hair dryer.





Yeah, I got a bit carried away here.

In case you didn't bother reading it : Without major changes on several parts (only changing one part on a fuel injected motor won't help much), you are not going to get too much power. The Rotax 650 is tuned for reliability anyways, so unless you are going racing, keep it as is.


Example of such modifications (this is one of the 5 bikes TT sent to Dakar in '02):
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:53 PM   #10003
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Originally Posted by TobyG View Post
With the stock manifold and the stock airbox, it's simply not possible to gain a noticeable change in HP.
Acc to the dyno mine got a bit more HK, but more noticable gain in torque, when I installes K&N filter and Staintune exhaust. Actually got better results with foam block in K&N filter and restrictor in exhaust, but better sound with everything out Think it says 93,5db on the tye approval for NSW, Oz
It's still not possible to power wheelie without going insane sprockets (13/49 works)



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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 02-19-2013, 11:54 PM   #10004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomoto View Post
Ha ha, yep!
Figure out when the world cup race in Lillehammer is yet ? 'd be fun to meet in person
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

Gravel Seekers.com

Hey !
It's the African ant eater ritual !
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:48 AM   #10005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwayne View Post
The clanking could be explained by the auto decompressor, but 10-15 seconds (was it 10 - 15 seconds or did is seem like 10 - 15 seconds?) seems kinda long.

Prior to this event, besides the leak, what lead you to the belief there was an oiling issue?

I mean there are lots of things that can lead to lack of oiling, but a slow leak from the top of the engine doesn't make the list (at least not on it's own). In fact a leak at the top of the engine is usually a sign of healthy oil pressure.
I'm not familliar with the auto decompressor, but it was the same clanking it was making right before i shut it off so i'm assuming it was something that was depleted of oil and it took a little more time on start up to get oil there again.

The leak is something that occurs only below freezing, and then at times and temperatures that i have yet to spot a pattern of. It seems to me there must be some part that either has a channel partially freezing shut, or a mechanism controlling flow freezing in some way so that it only partially functions. Different humidity levels and temperature drops could explain why this doesn't occur at any given absolute temp. If there is some sort of blockage from ice forming and if it is beyond the pump there would be extra pressure between the two which would exacerbate leaking from the pressure sensor or wherever.

I'm just trying to put all the symptoms together into a theory that assumes there is only one problem causing this. A faulty pressure sensor doesn't seem to explain it. An o-ring or something else shrinking in the cold could lead to a leak at that spot, but it wouldn't explain variable temperatures or the complete loss of pressure. If there are compound problems, i doubt i'll figure it out without having a shop do alot of work on it...
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