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Old 04-02-2013, 10:37 PM   #10231
ferals5
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Location: Goulburn, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG6BWS View Post
I saw that one. The MOSFET regulator is a lot bigger. It wont fit in that spot without relocating the preload adjuster. Thinking Ill just install it in the stock location for now. Itll get the bike running again until I can take it up and make some new brackets for everything.
i used similar to these to mount the original VR



I had to chop some fins with a cutting disc to clear the starter housing. You may be able to do similar.

ferals5 screwed with this post 04-02-2013 at 10:49 PM Reason: add more pics n stuff
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:02 AM   #10232
isgila
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VR relocation

I just an oversize long nut as a spacer as I tuck the long wires behind the VR.
For the my preload adjuster, I move it up, bolting only on 1 bolt. So far its tight.
Anyway i only adjust my preload when going full load with gears or my OH wanna relieved the our younger days...
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:45 AM   #10233
KG6BWS
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Got everything installed, charges great now. 14.4 at idle. Was a real bitch to get in though. Due to my lack of tools right now, I installed it in the stock location.

The problem I was having trying to put it under the preload adjuster had nothing to do with extension nuts or anything else you guys have used to relocate yours there. Its a great spot for the stock VR, but this mosfet one has 2 large plugs on it that prevent that. The only way I found to put it there was to turn it sideways, but then I ran into the lack of tools problem. I just dont have anything at my apartment to be doing stuff like that.

Heres a pic of what Im talking about. If you look closely just behind the plugs you can see the preload adjuster knob, and that was with using someone elses suggestion of moving the preload bracket up and only using one bolt.


I would have had to move it out so far that it would almost be passed the stator cover, first fall would have broken the brackets if not destroy the whole thing.

For anyone switching to the mosfet regulator, who still has the stock shock, it will fit in the stock location. To make it a little easier, plug in the plugs BEFORE you bolt it in there. I had to fight to get the plugs in because of the lack of space. Otherwise a fairly painless job.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #10234
ferals5
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your right...the plugs on that sucker are big

I have my battery down the hole in the original position so I would have to put it somewhere else
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:45 PM   #10235
AeroMoto
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What battery is everyone using? I need a new one. Current one is showing 9.5 volts after a good long charge. As far as I understand it, you can just match up the amp hours and CCA, right? TIA
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:28 AM   #10236
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroMoto View Post
What battery is everyone using? I need a new one. Current one is showing 9.5 volts after a good long charge. As far as I understand it, you can just match up the amp hours and CCA, right? TIA
I Had a Shorai until I killed it cranking the engine with the sidestand switch off... Aside from my stupidity, the battery worked very well and the weight difference is impressive!

I put a Sycl in my Ducati and I've loved it so far, a guy on the the forum sells them. So I've decided to buy the new GS battery from him as well: either Sycl or EarthX.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:50 AM   #10237
isgila
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+1 on sycl batt from herrhelmet.
Small enough to relocate under the seat...
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:56 AM   #10238
KG6BWS
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Well, I took the bike out for a short test ride and everything seems to be working now. The bike starts a whole lot better with a battery thats staying charged. Only had one problem, maybe you guys have some ideas.


Im using a Signal Dynamics voltage monitor, with the sensing wire hooked up to the low beam wire so its only on when the key is on. After start up, it goes thru a little flashing sequence as the charge comes back up to a full 14+ volts (verified with a multimeter). At idle, if Im holding the brakes, it drops into the yellow (12.7-12.8). Now I do have a second brake light but I dont remember what the wattage is on the bulb.

My main issue is that when I hit the highbeam (rpms didnt make any difference) it goes into a steady red, which is between 12.1-12.6 volts. Ive got the TT twin headlights with DDM Tuning HID kits in them, 35 watts on both sides. Does this sound like a bad ballast?? Or maybe just too much juice being drawn thru the headlight harness, so its giving me a false reading. As a bit of a control, I turned my Gerbings jacket up to full power (90 watts compared to the headlights 70 watts) and the monitor stayed a nice steady green.

Ive got a couple of doctors appointments today, but tomorrow Im going to hook the voltage monitor direct to the battery and try it again, see if that makes any difference.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:27 PM   #10239
tomatoe333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KG6BWS View Post
Ive got a couple of doctors appointments today, but tomorrow Im going to hook the voltage monitor direct to the battery and try it again, see if that makes any difference.
Do this. There's always some voltage drop, especially across the key switch. If you're getting good charging at the battery even with the high beams and brake light on, don't worry about it.
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:39 PM   #10240
KG6BWS
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
Do this. There's always some voltage drop, especially across the key switch. If you're getting good charging at the battery even with the high beams and brake light on, don't worry about it.
Thats what Im thinking. Im probably going to move it to my aux fuse block instead, which is on keyed power. Providing everything looks good Ill leave it there.

Long as its charging Im not worried about some voltage drop, but I dont want to end up with a dead battery because Im ignoring that red light. Little more testing should get it all finished.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:00 PM   #10241
stromsurfer
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Steering Problem

2001 Dakar with sidecar just installed.
Changed head bearings just before adding sidecar. After a 45 mile ride today turning left it suddenly would not turn back much further then just a bit passed straight. Just missed the left side sidewalk curb by using rear and sidecar brake. Can not turn handle bars or with hands pushing the wheel to the right. WTF. Luckily I was two minutes from home with only left turns required. I did not have time to investigate other then to look to see if a strap or something somehow got caught up.

Any ideas? Maybe I frigged up installing the head bearings? Could it be the steering lock. All advice or suggestions.

Thanks MC



Did some of this and frost heaved secondary roads today but nothing to extreme that would cause damage.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:16 PM   #10242
LoJack
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Nice looking rig

Does it just stop or get tight before stopping? I'd look to see if there is something obstructing the steering further.

It happened to me once while riding through the mountains of Colorado. One of the m8 bolts that hold the steel fairing frame to the main frame came out and, apparently being slightly magnetized, hung out on my lower triple. It wedged into the head stock as I turned into a gas station to get a cup of coffee. Took me and my GF right out as I couldn't correct my steering. Fortunately we were only going about 20mph at that point and were mostly unharmed.

I'd say you are fortunate to be on three wheels.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #10243
Wisconsinkris
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Way kind of side car rig is that?
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:04 PM   #10244
WayneC1
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KG6BWS

The high/low switch is known to burn out as BMW run full headlight power through the switch, in addition the power to there runs through the load shedding relay which has current limiting in it. This can result in some odd things occurring such as turning on indicators and having headlight turn off.

Check the switch and also ensure all the gear is running through relays so only the sense wiring is running through the Hi/Lo switch and load shedding relay
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:03 AM   #10245
Jarrod Weaver
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Cool hack! After riding motorcycles for decades one of the hardest thing I did was figuring out how to ride with a sidecar. The sidecar makes the bike handle in a completely unnatural way. You have to steer instead of counter-steer which is totally weird. Especially when you get a little squirrelly and instinct kicks in - this can make a bad situation worse QUICKLY. After time and miles pass you will become an expert! Is your steering problem the natural multiplication of torque that the hack creates?
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