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Old 07-09-2013, 11:00 AM   #11071
Gravel Seeker
Thomas
 
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Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSBS View Post
I have to disagree with this...

Think about it, if there is slop in the nut on the valve stem and the tire does move, it's much more likely to yank on the stem sideways, damaging the stem or valve stem core, or ripping out the entire thing. Besides, if you run it halfway down it's gonna vibrate and move over time toward the rim or the cap anyway. You might as well not have it on there at all. Also, if it's not tightened down the valve stem can be angled from spooning on the tire prior to inflation. The purpose of the second nut is to keep the stem in it's correct position.

Also, if you have a flat you don't want that valve stem flipping and flopping around loose because that will likely rip it from the tube. On several occasions I've had punctures and was able to patch the tube to get me home and that is impossible with a tube lacking a valve stem!
Quote:
Originally Posted by WTFMATE View Post
The valve stem will cock sideways. but if you have the nut screwed tight then the valve stem will be ripped from the tube.
Yup. Depending how much the tube moves of course.
Leaving the nut halfway between the rim and the valve cap allows the tube to move 10mm or so in either direction before the tube drags the stem down into the tire and rips the tube because the nut won't go throught he hole in the rim. If you tighten the nut all the way down the tube'll rip immediately because there is no stem to play with. If you remove the nut all together Murphy'll come out and you'll surely lose the valve stem through the hole in the rim when you try to reinflate when getting back to the pavement...

It doesn't move from vibration

I can't comment on what'll happen if I got a flat since I've never had one
(running heavy duty tubes only. Not even when I totalled my front rim after hitting a stump which sent me and the bike somersaulting into the woods did the tube puncture. Snapped 4 spokes and bent the rim to a figure 8. Rode it 25km's back to camp (slowly). Didn't damage the forks either btw, even if I have one the first bikes built)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ferals5 View Post
I'll have to disagree with your disagreement with GS
In my younger days I used to run them all the way down but now run them all the way up ( under the cap) if the stem can move (initial cause puncture) it is less likely to rip the stem and yes I only really need the nut for install otherwise it would be in the bin....saving weight 101

That little nut will not stop a tyre/tube from spinning .Not a right/wrong thing just from experience.
I have to agree with your disagreement to GSBS' disagreement. Let's all gang up

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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 07-09-2013, 11:10 AM   #11072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
Or, as guavadude mentions, the little 5w light under the headlight.

Not sure what this bulb is designed for- an emergency backup riding light if the headlight is out?
As other's have mentioned, it's the parking light. Turn the key to "P" and it'll light up. It's for when you break down and have to leave your bike along the road for example.
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2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 07-09-2013, 11:20 AM   #11073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd View Post
I use this one (I call it the parking light) to switch the relay for my GPS & heated gear: works like a charm.

One benefit of using the parking light is that it can be turned on separately from the rest of the power, so with the bike/ignition off, if I switch on the parking light I could charge the battery on my helmet cam/cell phone if needed.
Sorry, but I don't see the benfit of this.
That means you have to use additional stored power from the battery (because both the park light and the tail light lights up). Won't your GPS also try to turn itself off each time you turn the key off ? My Zumo 660 will create a new track each time it's turned off/on which is a drag if you'd like to use the track afterwards.

I've opted to add sigarette plug and GPS directly from the battery to be able to avoid that specific problem. Could've easily added a switch somewhere hidden to keep the power "safe" from 'long fingers'
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 07-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #11074
c-m
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Hi guys,

I need a favour.

Quite a few of you have made your own racks for the Dakar.

I can't find anything decent at a good price in the UK and was wondering if anyone would care to share their designs so that I can get something made up locally?

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:35 PM   #11075
Aquatic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-m View Post
Hi guys,

I need a favour.

Quite a few of you have made your own racks for the Dakar.

I can't find anything decent at a good price in the UK and was wondering if anyone would care to share their designs so that I can get something made up locally?

Thanks
Pre facelift Dakar



To fit a 1200GS top box
The OEM bootlid fits and there is place for the BMW badge
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:40 PM   #11076
c-m
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I see that you have the black oem boot lid.

I was trying to avoid buying that as it's over 100.

I thought it might be possible to build a rack/support without that,and fit a givi plate to the custom made rack/support.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:01 PM   #11077
docwyte
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I'd be interested in getting a plate for my '03 Dakar so I can adapt my spare Gobi case to it...
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:33 PM   #11078
Bikenstitches
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Coyote View Post
Or, as guavadude mentions, the little 5w light under the headlight.

Not sure what this bulb is designed for- an emergency backup riding light if the headlight is out? At least it worked that way when my high beam switch was burnt out, but kept me from noting the problem until it became dark out...
I relied on that little bulb on a trip home one night, until I could get to an all-night truck stop for a replacement headlight bulb. I promptly added auxiliary lights after that.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:44 AM   #11079
Lupin 3rd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Yes the parking lamp wire is good for powering devices which may also be needed when parked and engine is not required, emergencies etc

It is still advisable to use a relay as you dont want all the power running through the ignition switch.

A really neat trick is to use either electronics or two relays as per the 4 way flashers to power up a device then be able to turn off the ignition
I forgot to mention it but yes I do use a relay. I piggy back the parking light wires to power the relay (wired into the battery) which then powers a fuse box that my accessories plug into. I had not thought about using the 4-way flashers, seems interesting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Sorry, but I don't see the benfit of this.
That means you have to use additional stored power from the battery (because both the park light and the tail light lights up). Won't your GPS also try to turn itself off each time you turn the key off ? My Zumo 660 will create a new track each time it's turned off/on which is a drag if you'd like to use the track afterwards.

I've opted to add sigarette plug and GPS directly from the battery to be able to avoid that specific problem. Could've easily added a switch somewhere hidden to keep the power "safe" from 'long fingers'
For me the benefit of this setup is that I can switch on my GPS/Heated gear/Charger whatever with the ignition key. And I don't need to worry about them draining the battery if (ok, when...) I forget them on the bike.

I see your point about using extra battery power for the lights, but I would only use that for a short time while charging my cell or helmet camera, so it's not a big deal for me.

I don't have a zumo so I don't worry about it creating a new track, if that bothers you then it probably makes more sense to wire it differently. It isn't an issue for me and the practicality of switching on/off my accessories with the ignition switch outweighs all the cons.
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:56 AM   #11080
WayneC1
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Yes I have both switch and unswitched power outlets in the dash/handlebar area so I have access to both

Re the Zumo, there is a thread here on Advrider describing how the Garmin cable works (it is 5 wire not 4) the cable arrangement determines which mode the GPS powers up to. Lost the link to it though
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:23 AM   #11081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupin 3rd View Post
For me the benefit of this setup is that I can switch on my GPS/Heated gear/Charger whatever with the ignition key. And I don't need to worry about them draining the battery if (ok, when...) I forget them on the bike.

I see your point about using extra battery power for the lights, but I would only use that for a short time while charging my cell or helmet camera, so it's not a big deal for me.
Sure, sure.
I once plugged my laptop inn and ran it off the bike's power. Listened to some music while writing some shit. Maybe 30 minutes - hour tops. Battery was flat the next morning when I went to start it. And that was with my direct power outlet so no additional drainage, which is why I thought charging stuff and using the lights was a bad idea. I replaced my battery the next year, so it might have been on ther fritz the year before already.
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 07-10-2013, 07:36 AM   #11082
WayneC1
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A laptop would use up to 30 to 60 watts if running so could flatten the battery but should have gone to sleep
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:04 AM   #11083
Killswitch924
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Oil? leaking from water pump weep hole

Hey, so I've been trying to pinpoint this very slow leak over the last couple days. This appears to have been going on for quite a while, but I did not realize it.
Long story short, I smelled something "burning" when starting the bike, saw wisps of smoke from the exhaust pipe, found seepage down around the weep hole area.

Basically, this appears as a light brown fluid, looks similar to oil but has no distinctive smell. I'm assuming oil as it is closer to oil than coolant. I just checked the oil reservoir and the oil looks completely fine, no signs of mixing.

Best I can tell I probably just need to replace the water pump and seals...or just the seals...not really sure yet.

Any and all advice would be appreciated. This was all brand new to me today so what you see in the message here is just basically what I've learned from the wonderful world of interwebs today.
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:44 AM   #11084
tomatoe333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killswitch924 View Post

Best I can tell I probably just need to replace the water pump and seals...or just the seals...not really sure yet.

Any and all advice would be appreciated. This was all brand new to me today so what you see in the message here is just basically what I've learned from the wonderful world of interwebs today.
Classic sign of a leaking seal on the water pump shaft.

The seals come as a kit from BMW, along with a replacement shaft and water pump impeller. Do it all at once. You'll also want to order a left side cover gasket, a water pump cover gasket, and a pair of washers for the banjo bolt on the oil return line.

Procedure is on the Chain Gang website. Biggest pain in the ass will be removing/modifying the oil return line, and getting everything to line up when you put the clutch side cover back on.


And if you have a reasonable number of miles on the bike, replace the plastic water pump drive gears. Two of the same gear, part number should be on the fiche with the water pump shaft/seals/etc. I have firsthand experience with what happens when those gears fail, and the $28 that it would cost to replace them is cheap insurance.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:40 PM   #11085
Killswitch924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
Classic sign of a leaking seal on the water pump shaft.

The seals come as a kit from BMW, along with a replacement shaft and water pump impeller. Do it all at once. You'll also want to order a left side cover gasket, a water pump cover gasket, and a pair of washers for the banjo bolt on the oil return line.

Procedure is on the Chain Gang website. Biggest pain in the ass will be removing/modifying the oil return line, and getting everything to line up when you put the clutch side cover back on.


And if you have a reasonable number of miles on the bike, replace the plastic water pump drive gears. Two of the same gear, part number should be on the fiche with the water pump shaft/seals/etc. I have firsthand experience with what happens when those gears fail, and the $28 that it would cost to replace them is cheap insurance.

Thanks for the response! I think I have most of it figured out here. One thing I'm still trying to figure out though as I have never actually done any work on this bike or any two wheeled vehicle for that matter. You said the water pump drive gears?
Is that this part number - 11 51 7 652 905 at this link - (#9 under water pump in fiche)http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...8&rnd=04302013


Other than that, the only real issue I'm having here is that the procedure listed on F650 is not for the Dakar although they seem very similar. ...I just wish it were done in pictures for us visual learners :)
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