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Old 07-10-2013, 02:03 PM   #11086
tomatoe333
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Originally Posted by Killswitch924 View Post
Is that this part number - 11 51 7 652 905 at this link - (#9 under water pump in fiche)http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...8&rnd=04302013
That is correct. You'll need two gears. There's the one on the water pump shaft, and an identical gear on the end of the balancer shafter coming through the engine case, to drive the water pump.

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Originally Posted by Killswitch924 View Post
Other than that, the only real issue I'm having here is that the procedure listed on F650 is not for the Dakar although they seem very similar. ...I just wish it were done in pictures for us visual learners :)
The procedure is basically the same, I think the only difference is the oil line. And there are some pictures of that if you poke around.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #11087
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
That is correct. You'll need two gears. There's the one on the water pump shaft, and an identical gear on the end of the balancer shafter coming through the engine case, to drive the water pump.



The procedure is basically the same, I think the only difference is the oil line. And there are some pictures of that if you poke around.

Hmmm, well that sucks. Just placed the order and got the one gear....but didn't get a second one as I didn't see it in the diagram. That and the Roll Pin were both out of stock but will be in tmw. Since I'm trying to do this this weekend, I'm probably going to end up going with what I have. I'll have a look at them and see if either look to be in bad shape, if so, I'll order another and hold off on putting it all back together.

.....I feel dumb, kinda makes sense that where there is one plastic gear there would be another to match it....
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:29 PM   #11088
tomatoe333
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Originally Posted by Killswitch924 View Post
Hmmm, well that sucks. Just placed the order and got the one gear....but didn't get a second one as I didn't see it in the diagram. That and the Roll Pin were both out of stock but will be in tmw. Since I'm trying to do this this weekend, I'm probably going to end up going with what I have. I'll have a look at them and see if either look to be in bad shape, if so, I'll order another and hold off on putting it all back together.

.....I feel dumb, kinda makes sense that where there is one plastic gear there would be another to match it....
If you ordered from Max, give them a call at the NH branch, and ask to amend the order. I did the EXACT same thing when I ordered the parts a couple of weeks back.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:50 PM   #11089
Don Coyote
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
The procedure is basically the same, I think the only difference is the oil line. And there are some pictures of that if you poke around.
Is there a difference in the oil line itself for the Dakar? From what i recall, it is the presence of ABS that makes it impossible to wiggle out the rigid return line without cutting it (or disassembling a lot of things) like some people without ABS have done...
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:50 PM   #11090
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
If you ordered from Max, give them a call at the NH branch, and ask to amend the order. I did the EXACT same thing when I ordered the parts a couple of weeks back.

Ya, working on getting a hold of them now. Feeling a little bad as they are already making one adjustment to that order for me. Hopefully they don't mind helping me out a little.

Thanks for the advice. I finished the entire procedure explanation and don't think this should be to much of an issue for me.

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Old 07-10-2013, 04:36 PM   #11091
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Nylon gear...

FWIW, I did my water pump seals, shaft, impeller at 77K miles when the original factory seals finally began to leak. At that mileage the nylon drive gear was fine with no noticeable wear. Actually I ordered the gaskets too, but the original ones came off fine so I reused them. It's at 87K miles now.

One puzzling thing about my water pump seals is that after this initial replacement, about 5K miles ago I was getting a very light drip of coolant from the weep hole. Just a couple of pinhead sized drops on the inside of the skid plate.

When I checked the reservoir the coolant was still right to the "MAX" line, but I panicked thinking I'd done something wrong on the install and ordered up another seal/shaft/impeller kit. I kept watching it for the last 5K miles waiting for it to begin leaking more, but now it has stopped leaking completely. And the weep hole is dry as a bone. And yes, I poked something in there to make sure there wasn't a blockage.

I'm planning to do several thousand miles on the bike over the next month so this morning I pulled the left side plastics to get a good look at the coolant reservoir make sure there's been no more coolant loss and it's still at the MAX line.

The only explanation I can think of is that with my two golden retrievers there is dog hair floating around everywhere in my house and garage. I'm thinking maybe a strand of hair got in-between one of the seals when I was reassembling the bike, caused this small leak and finally worked itself out or dissolved. For whatever reason, it hasn't leaked another drop in the last 5K miles so I'll just wait until it starts leaking again before using the "spare" parts. Maybe put them in the tool kit for longer trips just in case.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:45 PM   #11092
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post
If you ordered from Max, give them a call at the NH branch, and ask to amend the order. I did the EXACT same thing when I ordered the parts a couple of weeks back.
Kudos to Max BMW, sent them yet another email and annoyed them a little bit more. They added the last two items to my order and are going out of their way to have everything to me on time so I can get this knocked out.
Thanks for the advice! Dug out the Haynes manual tonight when I got home and don't think I'll have any problem getting this done.

Had to clean out the shed and get everything moved out of the way so I have some room to work but here she sits waiting on a little TLC this weekend.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:19 AM   #11093
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Originally Posted by DakarGuy View Post
I have a Yuasa YT12CL 12v AGM Maintenance Free battery. IIRC this is a 12 amp/hr battery. My research tells me 12v at 12AH = 144 watt hours. The Denali lights draw 5 watts per lamp for a 10 watt total. So without any charge, I could run the LED lights for 14.4 hrs, all things being equal. Is that right?
My first question then is; How many watts can I run concurrently on the battery before something starts to give? How do I work that out?
Say I want to run my OEM headlight, plus my heated hand grips, plus the Denali LEDs, plus heated clothing, plus a cell phone on charge, plus a Garmin Montana GPS, etc. How do I know what is safe? I don't want to damage the battery.

From actual experience I have run the following at the same time on my Dakar:

Auto comm intercom
GPS Charger
Heated Grips
Heated vest (55w)
2 x Incandescent driving lights (55watts each)
Stock electrics
digital temp/voltmeter

After about an hour the autocomm would cease functioning due to low voltage ie I was overdrawing the system, and the autocomm was the most fussy, then the gps would shut down. Notice how much more I was running compared to your list!

So what you need to know is that your battery shouldn't matter when correctly calculating electrical loads...You need it to start the bike and run devices when the bike isn't running. Period.

What you do is find the wattage that your alternator produces (I recall 410 watts, but don't quote me) then subtract the watts for each item running.

I believe the draw to run a base stock Dakar (headlight and all) is about 150 watts (again other step in), which leaves you with about 260 ish watts to run accessories before discharging the battery. It is important to remember that you need to leave some cushion to allow the battery to charge...not a lot if you are running long periods without starting, or more if you do alot of stop and go where you start the bike over and over again.

So for each accessory you subtract the watts it take to run it. If you have more than 260ish you will discharge the battery, eventually causing the bike to die when there is not enough power to run the computer, fuel pump and ignition.

To calculate the wattage of each accessory (if not labeled) you can take the operating voltage and multiply it by the draw. For example a cell phone charger might operate at 8 volts times by the 1.5 amp draw and you will wind up with a wattage of 12. A USB charged GPS might use a voltage of 5ish and a draw of .5 amps for a wattage of 2.5 etc.

Surprisingly the list of accessories you intend to run (depending on how much heated clothing) might actually be manageable. Even if it goes over you are very likely unlikely to damage the battery or charging system, but you might be left stranded until you can charge the battery.
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dwayne screwed with this post 07-11-2013 at 12:41 PM
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:23 AM   #11094
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Great explanation Dwayne. Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you.

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Old 07-13-2013, 12:24 AM   #11095
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Holy hell, I hope I never have to do those water pump seals again! That oil return hardline is probably one of the worst mechanical designs I've seen in a while. Literally everything except that line went fine....but that line was miserable. Is there a trick I missed somewhere on how to get that top bolt on the hardline out more easily?
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:44 AM   #11096
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Ya gotta love german engineering. Replace the solid iine with a flexible line, and make on the road emergency repairs easier
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:56 AM   #11097
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Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Ya gotta love german engineering. Replace the solid iine with a flexible line, and make on the road emergency repairs easier
Just found a bunch of info about that now, over on F650.com someone ran a braided line around the front of the water pump and then back to the banjo bolt....I guess I'm a bit behind the times! After the trouble that thing caused me, that modification is now at the top of my list. Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2013, 01:39 AM   #11098
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I put a lot of that info into a pdf, see the repairs/water pump page from the link in my signature
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:42 AM   #11099
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Originally Posted by Killswitch924 View Post
Just found a bunch of info about that now, over on F650.com someone ran a braided line around the front of the water pump and then back to the banjo bolt....I guess I'm a bit behind the times! After the trouble that thing caused me, that modification is now at the top of my list. Thanks!
Or, you could just cut the damn thing - 5 minutes, 2 hose clamps, and 2" of hose and you're done. Forever.

And, FWIW, over the course of many seal failures, mine has weeped oil, coolant, oil and coolant; it has stopped weeping for a time and then started again, failed completely, resulting in major coolant loss, and the current set is happily running along with almost 6,000 miles - practically a new record!

Also, FWIW, I've never replaced any gaskets or drive gears. Just lucky I guess.

Good luck!
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:43 AM   #11100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killswitch924 View Post
Just found a bunch of info about that now, over on F650.com someone ran a braided line around the front of the water pump and then back to the banjo bolt....I guess I'm a bit behind the times! After the trouble that thing caused me, that modification is now at the top of my list. Thanks!

Highly recommended!

There's komatias in the UK ( http://www.f650.co.uk/forums/showthr...ble-oil-lines& )
and divimon2000 in the US ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=841722 )
who both make and sell those lines.


I mounted one from komatias on my bike this spring (routed along the front, not sure whether that's possible with divimons') and got to say I already love it as I just had some clutch issues and had to open the case 3 times.
That would've been a pain with the stock line....
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