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Old 06-05-2014, 05:24 PM   #7906
Burkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
What oil you running in the gearbox in the CRF Burkey ?
I'm running Motul 5100 in box and engine on the CRF so 2 litres covers an oil change on both bikes. CRF 650ml + 650 ml and the XR 1750ml I buy it on sale when I see it.

Bought 4 litres for $100 last week
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:12 AM   #7907
Albi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
its not and wont be for a bit , got bigger things going on atm ,looking for a ride on my sons bike on the weekend

yes oil is dirty but not burnt nor worn out at 3k , i just like mineral oils and think they handle the kms well .... if the bike was rode hard on the limiter often well different case but for the riding i do and im slow and dont often flog the bike i think the oil was fine each time i changed it

the clutch dirtys the oil up quick so i have never worried about that

oil sight tube was prolly the first mod i did on this bike . keep an eye on the fly
Sorry to hear about the delay on the rebuild Seano.. Yep, usage and operating conditions have a lot to do with warranting service intervals, and nothing wrong with mineral.. Funny how some people act like your putting dirt in your engine when you tell them you use it.. Proof is in the pudding eh

I have always done dry changes with my cars and bikes, (leave it overnight) and get the last of it out.. Drains out a good 75ml extra on the pig..
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:15 AM   #7908
Albi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KASUYAHO View Post
If the oil gets dark it really is not a sign that the oil is not protecting the engine.
Carbon deposits can be supported in the oil as the carbon molecules are smaller then the oil molecules.

The way to check the oil so you know 100% for sure is get the oil tested,
you can buy a $30 kit from wholesale oil companies and send that off
and have the oil tested.

Which is what i did.
True, I prefer not to exceed the recommended service intervals buy too much, and get the suspended carbon molecules out before they have a chance to sludge. What did you find with the oil test??
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Old 06-06-2014, 01:20 AM   #7909
Sean-0
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its all good Albi ....if things go to plan my life will change for the better with less work and more ride time

i always did dry changes as well and crank the kicker over a few times and lean the bike .. get every last drop that i can
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:01 AM   #7910
digga1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick1 View Post
Just realised I posted the wrong video! (that one was the first start after rebuild)

This is the correct link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhpKJdaEgqs
didn't you just do a full rebuild on this bike not long ago?
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:09 AM   #7911
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albi View Post
True, I prefer not to exceed the recommended service intervals buy too much, and get the suspended carbon molecules out before they have a chance to sludge. What did you find with the oil test??
The sludge your talking about is what you get when the oil breaks down.
The carbon molecules is contamination of the oil but nothing to worry about.
What other factors contribute to oil life due to contamination is an engine that is over rich in fuel mixture, dust through the air filter etc.
With a synthetic the molecule chain is longer than of a mineral oil so a synthetic oil will give way more engine protection than a mineral oil.
It has nothing to do with a oil being slippery as Castrol promote at times.
If metal parts of a engine do not touch each other they the engine does not wear.

What i find from the oil test results is i change my oil not so regular anymore, no need to as the oil was fine.
But i do run a good quality Synthetic oil.
So it works out cheaper that way than using a mineral oil or a over priced Synthetic oil and the engine gets better protection.
Less wear.

But talking oil brands is like talking politics or religion :)

KASUYAHO screwed with this post 06-06-2014 at 04:37 AM
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Old 06-06-2014, 04:44 AM   #7912
Big Willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkey View Post
I'm running Motul 5100 in box and engine on the CRF so 2 litres covers an oil change on both bikes. CRF 650ml + 650 ml and the XR 1750ml I buy it on sale when I see it.

Bought 4 litres for $100 last week
That's not cheap! Did you mean 7100?
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Old 06-06-2014, 05:01 AM   #7913
patrick1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppy View Post
Listen to the bike grasshopper, it is telling you something. Fix it before it fucks up, leaves you strandard and costs you a fortune.

Guides are not hard. Change both while you are in there and throw a chain on for good measure. Check your tensioner as well, check that before you buy guides. It may be getting hung up in there which will put tension on the chain then release it.

How many klm's on your bike?

Nice pics Albi, what do you use to take them with? Spose you get pretty bored riding that stuff all the time hey

note take, bike has about 20,000kms on it now

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithy69 View Post
Patrick, take it to a bike mechanic before you start fucking around with it. The internet is great for alot of things, but not diagnosing noises.
so that begs the question, who knows a mechanic in Sydney they would trust with their xr?

Quote:
Originally Posted by digga1111 View Post
didn't you just do a full rebuild on this bike not long ago?
don't remind me, wasn't a full rebuilt. New rod an valves, I was advised the piston an bore were fine - i wish they did the cam chain now
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:04 AM   #7914
Oz Nutter
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Underseat tank

http://www.advrider.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=53
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:52 PM   #7915
DustyJohn
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Pissed Staightening Rims in Oz

According to Woody's wheel works in Denver I seem to have descended on a trajectory straight to Hell by trying to straighten a warped rim using the spokes.

I am starting to agree.

Is there anyone in Australia who offers a similar wheel straightening service to Woody's in the states? Would it be cheaper to just get some new rims?
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:53 AM   #7916
Oz Nutter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyJohn View Post
According to Woody's wheel works in Denver I seem to have descended on a trajectory straight to Hell by trying to straighten a warped rim using the spokes.

I am starting to agree.

Is there anyone in Australia who offers a similar wheel straightening service to Woody's in the states? Would it be cheaper to just get some new rims?
Wheel Works , Macarthur , VIC
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:17 AM   #7917
KASUYAHO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DustyJohn View Post
According to Woody's wheel works in Denver I seem to have descended on a trajectory straight to Hell by trying to straighten a warped rim using the spokes.

I am starting to agree.

Is there anyone in Australia who offers a similar wheel straightening service to Woody's in the states? Would it be cheaper to just get some new rims?
Give Turton a call
http://www.overlandersmc.com.au/

Ask Turton if Keith still does wheels
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Old 06-07-2014, 11:17 PM   #7918
Lostsaffa
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Old 06-08-2014, 12:23 AM   #7919
Sean-0
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dented the rim, bounced of the limiter,cool vid Travis
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Old 06-08-2014, 01:27 AM   #7920
zoro
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Don't think I've heard a BRP on the limiter that much.
Sounds healthy, looks good, should be proud of it.
Well done
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