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Old 03-14-2009, 04:31 PM   #1
One Less Harley OP
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Thumb Bendix replacement on Bosch Starter

As noted on an earlier post, the Bosch starter (bendix)on my R80 G/S gave up the ghost last weekend, effectively locking up the motor at the flywheel due to debris being caught between the flywheel and crankcase. Parts were ordered Last Sunday from Motobins, starter parts and a complete clutch kit. Luckily parts arrived on Friday. I saved over $200 by ordering parts from England, even w/ the shipping!!!

Here's the damaged bendix


And the parts found under the flywheel



The starter was removed and the collar which holds the bendix on the armature was cut off w/ a dremel tool.



The old bendix was drifted off and the new one was heated w/ a propane torch to expand the bushing so it would slide over the armature end. The bendix was taped into place w/ an appropriate socket.

The the fun part was figuring out how the spring clip would fit into the collar.


I tried various ingenious methods to compress the spring but no luck. It wasn't until I looked at the end of the armature and realized that it was machined out in the end to accept the tip of a gear puller.....SO



Once using the gear puller the collar and spring clip popped into place.

I did inspect the brushes and they appeared fine, so the starter was put back together, installed, and tested. Then off to replacing the clutch, which was pretty easy.

It was a good weekend for the BMW, replace the clutch assembly and figure out that one cannot buy an off the shelf relay for the head lights.

So $360 (including shipping) dollars later I have a new clutch, repaired starter bendix and fixed head light relay. If I had purchased the parts from a stateside dealer those parts would have cost $560 plus shipping, and no clutch tool. It's a shame that I can order parts from England cheaper than here in the states.
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One Less Harley screwed with this post 03-17-2009 at 07:50 PM
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Old 03-17-2009, 05:19 PM   #2
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hey, very cool. Just saw this. Not often we get starter "how to " threads.

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Old 03-17-2009, 05:54 PM   #3
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Real pity you can't go to a local starter and alternator shop or buy from an American distributor like this one. LINK! What? a brand new Bosch starter motor for $260.00 in the USA? No, way! Oh, by the way, that's the early Bosch. Your G/S is cheaper.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:25 PM   #4
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Lets see $26 USD for the bendix, or a new starter which I didn't need for over $250...hum that's a tough decision. Not to mention the satisfaction of being able to fix it my self, yes I have that ability. Yes I could have bought the bendix at your included link, but when I needed other stuff. Yeah I'd like to support the local economy, but when you consider that I needed a bunch of other parts, clutch stuff, now come on I cann't fork out $200 extra to support a dealer.
I don't know why there is such a difference, it doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datchew
hey, very cool. Just saw this. Not often we get starter "how to " threads.

Once you get starter off it's pretty easy to pull apart. Needed to heat the screws (lock tite on the threads) on the outer casing to get the field coil out, plus use of an impact driver. Lock tite those screws on reassembly!!!





Then removed the two inner screws (at the center cap) which held the brush plate on NOTE the Nose of the starter was pulled first.


Here's the feild coil



Feild coil w/ brush plate, if you pull the brush springs back and push the brushes all the way in it will make putting things back together easier. Sorry for the terrible picture of it.



Sorry that this isn't in depth but the starter does come apart easily.

If replacing the bedix you will need the starter repair kit. Pictured at the middle right at the below picuture

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Old 03-17-2009, 07:48 PM   #6
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Why did you take out the field coils? Was there something wrong with them?
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:00 PM   #7
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Field coils were fine, I just pulled it all apart to clean up the insides of the starter. It was a little dirty 25 years of dirt. Plus when I pulled the armature I had to remove the coils to get to the brush plate and figure out how to get the brushes held back to reinstall the armature. Not that difficult when you figure out the springs can be pulled back to the sides of the brushes and that keeps them retracted.

You don't have to remove the field coils to get to the brushes, or to replace them if needed.
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One Less Harley screwed with this post 03-18-2009 at 05:32 AM
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:25 PM   #8
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Every time somebody starts a thread like this, I wind up needing the info. I'm sure now I'll have starter problems, since I leave Thursday on a 2,000 mile or so trip. Thanks. Thanks a lot.

Seriously, great thread. Subscribed.
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Old 03-17-2009, 09:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Lets see $26 USD for the bendix, or a new starter which I didn't need for over $250...hum that's a tough decision. Not to mention the satisfaction of being able to fix it my self, yes I have that ability
rock on, man! Like Datchew said, I think this is the only starter rebuild I've seen so far. Good to have more info on here. Thanks!

Why don't you just ditch the starter altogether and use the kicker? I've heard they're real reliable on these bikes. Or better yet, get one of those amazing Toyoto Nippondenso starters. Heck you wouldn't need the rest of the engine. Put the bike in gear and hold down the starter button while you ride. You'll save a fortune on gas.
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgoodsoil
rock on, man! Like Datchew said, I think this is the only starter rebuild I've seen so far. Good to have more info on here. Thanks!

Why don't you just ditch the starter altogether and use the kicker? I've heard they're real reliable on these bikes. Or better yet, get one of those amazing Toyoto Nippondenso starters. Heck you wouldn't need the rest of the engine. Put the bike in gear and hold down the starter button while you ride. You'll save a fortune on gas.
My point is that the starter parts are available in the USA for less than it costs to buy them in England. It has been my experience that the local starter shop can get parts for all the BMW stuff. They even told me how they glue the magnets back into a Valeo starter. $30.00 for the Bendix from my link. I wonder what they charge for shipping?
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:46 AM   #11
blaine.hale
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I'm going to bring this one back from the dead.
Anyone have any recommendations on those flat head screws securing the field coil to the body? I've gotten two off with heat and impact. Other 2 are just completely seized in there. No amount of heat or penetration fluid will free them up. I've even broken a super thick flat head bit on my impact driver trying to get one out.
Maybe I just need to soak them in mystery oil for a few days and try again? Too much heat melts the rubber coating on the field coil :(
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
I'm going to bring this one back from the dead.
Anyone have any recommendations on those flat head screws securing the field coil to the body? I've gotten two off with heat and impact. Other 2 are just completely seized in there. No amount of heat or penetration fluid will free them up. I've even broken a super thick flat head bit on my impact driver trying to get one out.
Maybe I just need to soak them in mystery oil for a few days and try again? Too much heat melts the rubber coating on the field coil :(
Try putting the case in a drill press vise and dogging it down on the press table. Then, chuck up an impact driver bit in the chuck. Have a helper apply strong downward pressure with the feed handle while you stick a steel rod in one of the chuck key holes and turn the screw.
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:54 PM   #13
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IDK...heat and impact hammer bit is my best suggestion, but you've tried that...
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:55 PM   #14
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hey I requested this be move to airheads...hope you don't mind
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:34 PM   #15
blaine.hale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
Try putting the case in a drill press vise and dogging it down on the press table. Then, chuck up an impact driver bit in the chuck. Have a helper apply strong downward pressure with the feed handle while you stick a steel rod in one of the chuck key holes and turn the screw.
Some how that makes sense...now I just need to find a drill press :(
I've never met a screw so stubborn and I have 4 of them! I'm rebuilding two starters and both have two stuck screws.
Oh and to actually add to this thread ; when you need to replace the brushes, they're silver soldered on because of the heat generated on cranking. You'll need a plumbers torch to get them off and resolder with 50/50 tin lead solder.
I'm trying a por15 paint out on them when I finish that's corrosion resistant and hardens over time and with moisture. Going to use it on the master cylinder too.
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