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Old 02-12-2011, 11:01 AM   #181
Motor31
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Originally Posted by pilot View Post
2400 seems to be a standard powder for reduced cast bullet loads in military surplus rifles, like the 8mm Mauser. Is Universal suitable for this application?
Your best resource would be to get the Lyman cast bullet loading book. The next best option is to look on the powder manufacturer web sites for cast bullet info. I did a quick google search and found a number of sources, some just forum posts with load data and some related to ammo component manufacturers. Some seemed to be a bit uniform with some beginning loads listed for the purpose such as small game or long range target.

I'd look for a more qualified source like the powder manufacturer. I did check the hogdon site which had 3 powder brands listed. They also had a question section so you could submit load requests. If you already have the bullet selected drop them a line and ask what they recommend.

You could also look for cast bullet manufacturers and see what they have on hand for recommended loads if they regularly produce the bullet you want to use.

Keep in mind that using a cast bullet load will often mean using small amounts of powder in a rather large case. That can have consequences like hangfires, significant velocity differences between shots or even misfires depending on how the powder sits in the case. Some or most loads will require the use of a filler on top of the powder like fine corn meal or kapok stuffed in the case to hold the powder at the rear of the case near the primer.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:32 PM   #182
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Lyman's book is on my shelf.

As for using filler, the current wisdom is not to use it. A lot of people use 16 grains of 2400 for a whole lot of different calibers with cast lead. So much so that it is called the standard load.

I only have one rifle bullet mold right now and I'm having trouble with the lubrisizer top punch deforming the nose of the bullet. I'm wanting to add a bigger caliber for cast lead shooting, either a Mauser in 8mm or a Mosin.
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:43 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by pilot View Post
Lyman's book is on my shelf.

As for using filler, the current wisdom is not to use it. A lot of people use 16 grains of 2400 for a whole lot of different calibers with cast lead. So much so that it is called the standard load.

I only have one rifle bullet mold right now and I'm having trouble with the lubrisizer top punch deforming the nose of the bullet. I'm wanting to add a bigger caliber for cast lead shooting, either a Mauser in 8mm or a Mosin.
I never liked the idea of filler much. I remember some guys using Cream of Wheat. This was back in the '60s. The kapok left a residue in the barrel that was tough to clean out. One guy used some sort of nylon fiber and it left a residue that was brutal to remove.

Sounds like you just need a different shaped top-punch for your lube sizer. I think they make them in all sorts of shapes and styles.
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:17 AM   #184
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Sounds like you just need a different shaped top-punch for your lube sizer. I think they make them in all sorts of shapes and styles.
I have the right one and I even put a little JB in and let that set against a bullet. I think it has to do with the lube being too thick and causing too much resistance. Or the lead is too soft.
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Old 02-13-2011, 10:39 AM   #185
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I have the right one and I even put a little JB in and let that set against a bullet. I think it has to do with the lube being too thick and causing too much resistance. Or the lead is too soft.
What is your lead recipe, and what caliber/cartridge are you loading them in? What lube are you using?
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Old 02-13-2011, 11:47 AM   #186
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The lead is probably pure lead. I melted it down from old drain pipe I removed from houses years ago when I was doing some plumbing. The bullet is the 170 grain "Cruise Missile" 6.5 mm from Lee. The lube is that old gray stuff Lyman sold twenty years ago that is that old. I need to try some new stuff. I made some for muzzle loading from paraffin and petroleum jelly and a little lanolin that should work pretty well.
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Old 02-13-2011, 12:24 PM   #187
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The lead is probably pure lead. I melted it down from old drain pipe I removed from houses years ago when I was doing some plumbing. The bullet is the 170 grain "Cruise Missile" 6.5 mm from Lee. The lube is that old gray stuff Lyman sold twenty years ago that is that old. I need to try some new stuff. I made some for muzzle loading from paraffin and petroleum jelly and a little lanolin that should work pretty well.
Go to a tire store and get some used wheel weights. They are about the same as a #2 alloy, with Antimony and whatnot to make them harder. You especially should use something like that for a centerfire pistol or rifle bullet. Pure lead, which is what the plumbers use, is great for muzzleloading bullets, but too soft and too low a melting point for breech loading cartridges. After melting them down, dip out the steel clips, and skim off the dross floating on top.

When casting, you will also need to pre-heat your mould blocks by setting the corner of them in the molten lead before you start casting, so you won't have voids or "wrinkles" in the bullets.

With a centerfire rifle bullet, you should also find some gas checks, which are little cups that you fit over the bottom end of the bullets before running them through the sizer/lubricator. This helps reduce leadinng in the bore of the firearm on hotter loads. I would stick with the old Lyman lube, or get a tube of new lube, Alox or something, because the soft goo you described won't hold up at centerfire speeds, plus it will probably get all over everything and make a mess.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:20 PM   #188
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I've cast bullets for a lot of years. Casting 101 isn't really needed.

I was hoping I could get away with using the lead I have on hand. Wheel weights are getting to be a problem to collect around here. You also have to deal with the ones that aren't lead. I have gas checks on hand.
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:43 PM   #189
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Sorry, I didn't know you had been doing it for a while.

You could buy Antimony, Lead, Tin, Arsenic, etc. and make your own alloy from scratch, try rotometals.com for sourcing those materials easily. Maybe 5% tin, 10% antimony, 1/4% arsenic will give a good alloy for rifle loads. Stick on wheel weights will work also, they are almost pure lead, compared to clip on wheel weights.
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:23 PM   #190
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Really, I just need to get off my ass and go scrounging for wheel weights. I gave up doing that a while back when they quit giving them away. KLR rider, you know.
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:26 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tellydoug View Post
Sorry, I didn't know you had been doing it for a while.

You could buy Antimony, Lead, Tin, Arsenic, etc. and make your own alloy from scratch, try rotometals.com for sourcing those materials easily. Maybe 5% tin, 10% antimony, 1/4% arsenic will give a good alloy for rifle loads. Stick on wheel weights will work also, they are almost pure lead, compared to clip on wheel weights.
There are others out in the innerwebz that appreciate the intro.

Think I'll start lookin' around CL for used equipment.
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:33 AM   #192
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Wax Bullet reloads for point shooting?

I really want to be practicing more point shooting, 15 feet tops, and I don't see the point on using lead bullets for that.

Doable or not?
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:50 AM   #193
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Wax Bullet reloads for point shooting?

I really want to be practicing more point shooting, 15 feet tops, and I don't see the point on using lead bullets for that.

Doable or not?
Of course it is. They're actually pretty accurate out to about twenty yards. Be careful. Personally, I'd just practice skinning that cat fast without the primer loads and call it good. Kinda.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:08 AM   #194
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What's point shooting?
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:10 AM   #195
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What's point shooting?
It's when you aim for their Google eyes.
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