Economics of reloading ammo(e)

[doc_ricketts]

Originally Posted by ttpete

I remove the case from the neck die with a primer punch, which completes both operations, then re-prime with a hand tool.

I now use a separate primer punch and quickly remove all the primers with a hammer before neck sizing and also use a hand tool (RCBS) for re-prime.

[El Guero]

Originally Posted by doc_ricketts

Tinkering with guns and loading is the most fun for me and the actual shooting is the test of your 'theories'. If you can't analyze your methods and results, then 'accuracy' shooting is not for you. I don't shoot in competition because most of my hardware is el cheapo, but I have always like to do things on the cheap and outdo somebody who spends the big bucks. Build my own engines, modify my motorcycles, and tinker with my guns, same same.

Trust me, you don't need to explain the scientific method to me. Your reply pretty much answers my question. I would encourage you to try competing though if you really enjoy it so much.

[clevishook]

Question for those who cast their own bullets. Is the lead used in scuba weights usable? Reason I ask is that I have a couple of old school scuba belts and weights in the garage and if those weights are usable, I'll find a local guy who can put them to good use.

[EvilGenius]

Originally Posted by clevishook

Question for those who cast their own bullets. Is the lead used in scuba weights usable? Reason I ask is that I have a couple of old school scuba belts and weights in the garage and if those weights are usable, I'll find a local guy who can put them to good use.

Depends, you gotta find out what their alloy content is.

[doc_ricketts]

Originally Posted by clevishook

Question for those who cast their own bullets. Is the lead used in scuba weights usable? Reason I ask is that I have a couple of old school scuba belts and weights in the garage and if those weights are usable, I'll find a local guy who can put them to good use.

Most scuba weights are pretty much only lead, so you will have to add a little tin to be good for most pistol loads. Wheel weights are what I use when I can get them. But I just checked the web and castboolits has a good discussion that indicates most dive weights have almost anything plus lead, but mostly lead:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=31923

[doc_ricketts]

To repeat my earlier view that the Lee hand press and Lee collett dies are an excellent and cheap way to reload, this happened yesterday afternoon:
I was spending a couple hours shooting at the Poulsbo WA range and asked the range master if I could get my little tackle box reloading system out on the bench to reload a few rounds. He was quite interested since he had reloaded shotgun shells with the Lee hand press. Furthermore he brought down a young man recently out of the Army who wanted to get into reloading but was put off by the cost. So I sat him down and went through how easy and cheap it is to reload good ammo. We loaded five rounds in just a few minutes with instructional guidance (I did the work and he listened). After being done with five .308 rounds I shot the first two in my Savage 12 which had cooled off during the pause (good for the Savage). At 100 yd the first two went into one hole and the young vet was quite impressed that $100 worth of hardware had done this so easily on top of the shooting bench. He went away to buy what he could at Sportmans Warehouse and order the rest online.

[FatChance]

Originally Posted by doc_ricketts

To repeat my earlier view that the Lee hand press and Lee collett dies are an excellent and cheap way to reload,

When I was doing SASS competition I mainly shot cast lead with Goex black powder. I used a Lee hand press to decap the .45 Colt and .45-70 brass before leaving to get it soaking to make cleaning easier. The hand press worked great! I also used it several times at the range when I was working up some .22-250 prairie dog rounds much like you did. I think it is a worthwhile addition to any reloader's kit.

[pilot]

Originally Posted by clevishook

Question for those who cast their own bullets. Is the lead used in scuba weights usable? Reason I ask is that I have a couple of old school scuba belts and weights in the garage and if those weights are usable, I'll find a local guy who can put them to good use.

Yes, it is usable. A caster can determine what to do with the lead, but even pure lead is a good metal for bullets. You use a harder alloy for faster loads, generally, but you can shoot pure lead at moderate velocities.

[doc_ricketts]

Originally Posted by pilot

Yes, it is usable. A caster can determine what to do with the lead, but even pure lead is a good metal for bullets. You use a harder alloy for faster loads, generally, but you can shoot pure lead at moderate velocities.

But there is some hazard with shooting pure lead and then shooting harder bullets afterwards. The pure lead may leave a coating on the barrel that can lead to overpressure if you switch to a harder bullet, especially a jacketed one.
http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php...duct_list&c=53

[pilot]

Originally Posted by doc_ricketts

But there is some hazard with shooting pure lead and then shooting harder bullets afterwards. The pure lead may leave a coating on the barrel that can lead to overpressure if you switch to a harder bullet, especially a jacketed one.
http://www.buffalobore.com/index.php...duct_list&c=53

If you are shooting pure lead, you know to shoot them at lower velocity than the hard stuff or use gas checks. Properly lubed and gas checked soft bullets work just fine without leading the barrel.

The article you linked is from a guy selling hard cast bullets. I'm shocked he is making a case for them. Shocked, I tell you.

[doc_ricketts]

Originally Posted by pilot

If you are shooting pure lead, you know to shoot them at lower velocity than the hard stuff or use gas checks. Properly lubed and gas checked soft bullets work just fine without leading the barrel.

The article you linked is from a guy selling hard cast bullets. I'm shocked he is making a case for them. Shocked, I tell you.

Just trying to alert any noobs who don't figure it out before it is too late. Bad things can creep up on you when you start out slow and cheap and then get the urge to step it up some. Anything in reloading done properly is not a problem, and it is the things done improperly that are the danger.

[toolfan]

Can someone with a Hornady manual check a recipe for me?

I'm loading 357 magnum, using Hornady's 158 gr XTP (the FP version, but that shouldn't matter) into Hornady cases with 2400.

The main reason I want to back up my Lyman is that Hornady uses short brass (1.25") in their factory ammo, so my once fired stuff is a lot shorter than the rest of my brass.

thanks in advance.

[soewe812]

Hornady 4th edition calls for 13.5 gr max of 2400 @ 1400 fps

[toolfan]

Originally Posted by soewe812

Hornady 4th edition calls for 13.5 gr max of 2400 @ 1400 fps

Wow, that is really low. Lyman calls for a max of 14.9, Alliant lists a max of 14.8 for a 158 gr Speer JHP.

I guess that might explain why my handloads went a little quicker than the factory ammo.


Does the manual give a trim length and an OAL?
I was really surprised at how short the factor brass was, I asked one of their technicians and he said it was because their leverevolution bullets are long and they use the same brass across the product line.

[DireWolf]

Originally Posted by toolfan

Wow, that is really low. Lyman calls for a max of 14.9, Alliant lists a max of 14.8 for a 158 gr Speer JHP.

I guess that might explain why my handloads went a little quicker than the factory ammo.


Does the manual give a trim length and an OAL?
I was really surprised at how short the factor brass was, I asked one of their technicians and he said it was because their leverevolution bullets are long and they use the same brass across the product line.

For some reason the .45-70 brass is short as well.

I have to keep them separate when reloading to make the seating/crimp easier.