R100GS without oil cooler??? - Page 3

Airhead Wrangler · 03-27-2009, 10:48 AM

Well, here are some replies from the airlist from some notable airheads:

"... It tries to keep oil temps below dangerous figures that can and does occur, in either single or dual plugging. There is nothing to ask...BMW put the coolers on for a reason. It certainly wasn't for running up the cost of the machine !!...Be careful what you hear on the list ........Oak"

And another...

"As for your engine, if you were traveling light and staying on pavement, it probably would not matter either. The conversion has to be done correctly, including changing out the filter center tube. You'd be well advised to fit the deeper R80/R100 oil pan and pickup along with the correct dipstick.
If you anticipate some offroad and low-speed riding the cooler will actually provide some benefit. The risk is that you could easily rupture the cooler in off-road excursions.

Tom Cutter
Yardley, PA
http://www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com
"To get what you never had, do what you never did." "

StephenB · 03-27-2009, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler

You'd be well advised to fit the deeper R80/R100 oil pan ...

... if you can accommodate the resulting loss of ground clearance.

boxermoose · 03-27-2009, 11:39 AM

Of fit one of these - minimul reduction of ground clearance but you can use the stock pan with it's skid plate mounting holes

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5..._Code=R100GS-U

StephenB · 03-31-2009, 05:52 PM

I have read this thread over and over and it provides excellent info. Now, I was concerned running the deep 1983 oilpan on my G/S from day 1. On the front most of the fins are already damaged, most likely from stones flying and/or touch ground. I want the large sumpguard back on, but not with the deep pan, as that would be another 1/2in off the ground clearance. So back to the shallow GS oilpan it goes. Based on all issues discussed here, especially the reduced cooling area of the shallow pan and the restricted airflow due to the sumpguard I will add the cooler. I will however go for the 1987-on monolever version with oil thermostat. For that, I will need the longer stub pipe, part number 11 42 1 335 387 (EUR 17 = about USD 22). The thermostat alone new is EUR 175, which is approx. USD 230. So one has to look for some second hand parts.

I will however see, if I get the oilcooler mounted on top of the front fender, underneath the headlight.

EagleScout · 10-16-2011, 09:41 PM

Any new thoughts on this topic?

I'm getting ready to purchase another oil cooler after my 92 GS took a dump on the highway and sprayed oil all over my left shin. I had relocated the cooler with the Touratech kit several years ago. Now either the kit came with a little brass bypass rod or I had purchased it "just in case" - the rod had threads on both ends to connect the lines. On the roadside, I fumbled through the tool kit hoping I had packed away the gizmo. There in a little baggie wrapped in a paper towel - voila! Threaded into the two stainless hoses, zip tied the hoses to the crash bar and off I went.

As I read through this thread, I'm tempted to just leave it as is. Anyone have long term experience lately with running their airhead GS without the oil cooler?

Phreaky Phil · 10-17-2011, 12:39 AM

I was given a temp dipstick and used it in my R80 GS with 1000 pots. No cooler. 2up with gear on the open road in summer it will sit on 140 c. About 20 deg c hotter than with a cooler. It never gets any hotter, even slow going it runs cooler. After a while I took it out. Cant worry about the temp if you dont know what it is !!

AntonLargiader · 10-17-2011, 04:25 AM

I think bypasses that join the hoses together miss the whole point that a hose can be the problem. Sure it might be the easiest fix if the cooler breaks, but that's just one scenario. I'd feel a lot better about a fix that replaces the hoses and cooler with a solid bypass.

I eliminated the cooler on my '88 GS and have done some offroad stuff since then (the GS Trials at the Pownal rally for instance, which would be as much of a challenge as that bike is likely to see temperature-wise) and it hasn't died yet. Stock jetting.

I think it still has the stock oil pan with the waffle plate; I can see the point that the later smooth pan and solid plate might hold in more heat, but that's assuming something about how effective the pan is at cooling oil in the first place.

brittrunyon · 10-17-2011, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AntonLargiader

I'd feel a lot better about a fix that replaces the hoses and cooler with a solid bypass.
.

So does such an animal exist?

fishkens · 10-17-2011, 05:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jorunny

So does such an animal exist?

Yes. It's a small block machined out of aluminum. The hoses are removed from the banjo joints and the block simply replaces them. I first saw them in BMWON 15 years ago and recently saw it on ebay but I can't find any today. It's a lightweight, seemingly bombproof solution (although mine has never left the tool tray).

H96669 · 10-17-2011, 05:17 PM

Well, they did exist back in 1991 when I made one out of some old banjos.

And this came with with my "new" GS, I am sure my hydraulic shop would make me something like that.

bereahorn · 10-17-2011, 07:04 PM

H96669 · 10-18-2011, 04:04 PM

Ok....Touratech is still available it seems:

http://www.touratech.com/shops/001/product_info.php?products_id=496

But any hydraulic shop should be able to make you one of them, at least mine will and they do have the banjos. Probably cheaper than the Touratech part.

Using old lines, removing the banjos and crimping new SS braided lines on them, not a problem either, I did that when I relocated my oil cooler on the 90 GS.

Using old banjos, brazing them together with a short lenght of pipe in between,I think I just cut the pipe on one banjo to lenght and enlarged the hole in the other one to mate them together. Cheap but you have to braze with the cover off the bike and the banjos lined up and held there with the banjo bolts to keep the parts in line. Obviously you don't want to heat up the aluminium cover too much so out comes the good old welding blanket,small tip and lower melting point brazing rod.

No removing/relocating the oil cooler on my "new" 87 GS, I have to keep it as original as possible to get the much cheaper "Collectible Vehicle" insurance in a year or so.

Airhead Wrangler · 10-18-2011, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by H96669

Ok....Touratech is still available it seems:

But any hydraulic shop should be able to make you one of them, at least mine will and they do have the banjos. Probably cheaper than the Touratech part.

Get one made. A buddy of mine (the same one I started this thread about) ended up using the touratech bypass and it failed after a week of continuous all day riding. When confronted with this, Touratech said that it was not intended for continuous use and was only meant to "get you home" if you bang up your oil cooler. We stopped in at a random hydraulic fittings shop on the side of the road in San Diego and had one made in 10 minutes for $15. It has lasted the last two years and about 40,000 miles.

fishkens · 10-18-2011, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler

Touratech said that it was not intended for continuous use and was only meant to "get you home"

WTF? What if you're 3,000 miles from home?

Regardless, that's why I don't like the nipple between the hoses or the single replacement hose. The block or brazed banjos are smaller, lighter and stronger - a perfect solution.

wirewrkr · 10-18-2011, 04:31 PM

Wow. And people continue to patronize these guys?

03-27-2009, 10:48 AM	#31
Airhead Wrangler ^OP More tacos than you Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Manzanillo MX, occasionally Seattle Oddometer: 5,123	Well, here are some replies from the airlist from some notable airheads: "... It tries to keep oil temps below dangerous figures that can and does occur, in either single or dual plugging. There is nothing to ask...BMW put the coolers on for a reason. It certainly wasn't for running up the cost of the machine !!...Be careful what you hear on the list ........Oak" And another... "As for your engine, if you were traveling light and staying on pavement, it probably would not matter either. The conversion has to be done correctly, including changing out the filter center tube. You'd be well advised to fit the deeper R80/R100 oil pan and pickup along with the correct dipstick. If you anticipate some offroad and low-speed riding the cooler will actually provide some benefit. The risk is that you could easily rupture the cooler in off-road excursions. Tom Cutter Yardley, PA http://www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com "To get what you never had, do what you never did." " __________________ R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment Ducati Pantah 500SL Rebuild Seattle to TDF on an airhead WTB R100R Mystic sidestand and mount.

03-27-2009, 11:39 AM	#33
boxermoose Now fully goosed Joined: Sep 2003 Location: Gulf Coast TX Oddometer: 2,687	Of fit one of these - minimul reduction of ground clearance but you can use the stock pan with it's skid plate mounting holes http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5..._Code=R100GS-U __________________ Sometimes you get the ABAT....and sometimes the ABAT gets you

03-31-2009, 05:52 PM	#34
StephenB G(/)S ... what else! Joined: Aug 2005 Location: Ontario Oddometer: 1,998	I have read this thread over and over and it provides excellent info. Now, I was concerned running the deep 1983 oilpan on my G/S from day 1. On the front most of the fins are already damaged, most likely from stones flying and/or touch ground. I want the large sumpguard back on, but not with the deep pan, as that would be another 1/2in off the ground clearance. So back to the shallow GS oilpan it goes. Based on all issues discussed here, especially the reduced cooling area of the shallow pan and the restricted airflow due to the sumpguard I will add the cooler. I will however go for the 1987-on monolever version with oil thermostat. For that, I will need the longer stub pipe, part number 11 42 1 335 387 (EUR 17 = about USD 22). The thermostat alone new is EUR 175, which is approx. USD 230. So one has to look for some second hand parts. I will however see, if I get the oilcooler mounted on top of the front fender, underneath the headlight. __________________ Some of the above is fact, some is fiction, some is my personal imagination and some is just simple truth. [me] ... i'm not touring around the world, but neither are most of the guys i see running overloaded spam cans ... [bmwblake] Stephen Bottcher Ontario, Canada '72 R75/5 The Blues www.stephenbottcher.net

10-16-2011, 09:41 PM	#35
EagleScout Adventurer Joined: Mar 2009 Location: AridZona Oddometer: 14	resurrecting the discussion Any new thoughts on this topic? I'm getting ready to purchase another oil cooler after my 92 GS took a dump on the highway and sprayed oil all over my left shin. I had relocated the cooler with the Touratech kit several years ago. Now either the kit came with a little brass bypass rod or I had purchased it "just in case" - the rod had threads on both ends to connect the lines. On the roadside, I fumbled through the tool kit hoping I had packed away the gizmo. There in a little baggie wrapped in a paper towel - voila! Threaded into the two stainless hoses, zip tied the hoses to the crash bar and off I went. As I read through this thread, I'm tempted to just leave it as is. Anyone have long term experience lately with running their airhead GS without the oil cooler?

10-17-2011, 04:25 AM	#37
AntonLargiader Beastly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2003 Location: Charlottesville, VA Oddometer: 3,460	I think bypasses that join the hoses together miss the whole point that a hose can be the problem. Sure it might be the easiest fix if the cooler breaks, but that's just one scenario. I'd feel a lot better about a fix that replaces the hoses and cooler with a solid bypass. I eliminated the cooler on my '88 GS and have done some offroad stuff since then (the GS Trials at the Pownal rally for instance, which would be as much of a challenge as that bike is likely to see temperature-wise) and it hasn't died yet. Stock jetting. I think it still has the stock oil pan with the waffle plate; I can see the point that the later smooth pan and solid plate might hold in more heat, but that's assuming something about how effective the pan is at cooling oil in the first place. __________________ Anton Largiader largiader.com BMWRA.org

10-17-2011, 12:39 AM	#36
Phreaky Phil Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2006 Location: NEW ZEALAND Oddometer: 1,186	I was given a temp dipstick and used it in my R80 GS with 1000 pots. No cooler. 2up with gear on the open road in summer it will sit on 140 c. About 20 deg c hotter than with a cooler. It never gets any hotter, even slow going it runs cooler. After a while I took it out. Cant worry about the temp if you dont know what it is !!

10-17-2011, 05:17 PM	#40
H96669 A proud pragmatist. Joined: Nov 2009 Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C. Oddometer: 2,866	Well, they did exist back in 1991 when I made one out of some old banjos. And this came with with my "new" GS, I am sure my hydraulic shop would make me something like that. __________________ Have tools, will travel!

10-17-2011, 07:04 PM	#41
bereahorn Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2002 Location: North Coast (Lake Erie) Oddometer: 1,054

10-18-2011, 04:04 PM	#42
H96669 A proud pragmatist. Joined: Nov 2009 Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C. Oddometer: 2,866	Ok....Touratech is still available it seems: http://www.touratech.com/shops/001/product_info.php?products_id=496 But any hydraulic shop should be able to make you one of them, at least mine will and they do have the banjos. Probably cheaper than the Touratech part. Using old lines, removing the banjos and crimping new SS braided lines on them, not a problem either, I did that when I relocated my oil cooler on the 90 GS. Using old banjos, brazing them together with a short lenght of pipe in between,I think I just cut the pipe on one banjo to lenght and enlarged the hole in the other one to mate them together. Cheap but you have to braze with the cover off the bike and the banjos lined up and held there with the banjo bolts to keep the parts in line. Obviously you don't want to heat up the aluminium cover too much so out comes the good old welding blanket,small tip and lower melting point brazing rod. No removing/relocating the oil cooler on my "new" 87 GS, I have to keep it as original as possible to get the much cheaper "Collectible Vehicle" insurance in a year or so. __________________ Have tools, will travel!

10-18-2011, 04:31 PM	#45
wirewrkr the thread-killer Joined: May 2008 Location: HIGH desert Oddometer: 4,297	Wow. And people continue to patronize these guys? __________________ www.wirewerkes.com KILL YOUR TELEVISION !!!!

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