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Old 03-27-2009, 10:07 PM   #16
G2mk3 OP
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and so it began:

first casualty:

second:

The cam bearings don't look new, but after all the metal bits are cleaned out they will be fine (at least long enough for me to get my giggles out of the motor):


There sure was a lot of metallic sludge at the bottom of the motor, I'm glad we quit running it when we did, but chances are the bike was used for quite a while in this condition. I quit for the night when I got to the nut holding the clutch pack on, looks like i'll have to fab some sort of tool to get it off tomorrow, any ideas?
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Old 03-28-2009, 07:17 AM   #17
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Dorkpunch to the white courtesy phone

I have welded key stock to an old socket before.... crude but effective.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:12 AM   #18
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yeah, I'm thinking some poor socket is gonna get it today
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:08 AM   #19
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Who's Sally?

And who's Puthy Willow?

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Old 03-30-2009, 12:36 PM   #20
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Saturday I was fortunate to get some help from my friend (and his huge shop) to get a socket modified for the special nuts on the clutch and crank. I forgot to bring my camera so I didn't get any pics of the the actual tear down... but really most of it was me using the parts washer to clean everything anyway.
Here is the socket, it looks pretty nasty in the picture but it fits the nut perfectly.

Then I was able to get to the bottom of this no-first-gear nonsense.

Yep. That'd do it alright.

So now i'm left with a nice pile of clean parts. I picked up a bottom end off of ebay for 65 bucks shipped, my factory service manual arrived and I have a complete gasket set ordered, so hopefully this weekend i'll be able to get the engine back together. Being able to use a parts washer was KEY to getting all the parts back into useable shape. I cleaned my friend's parts washer before I did any of my stuff, every time I'd take a break the bottom was covered in metal flakes. Slowly as I cleaned the bearings became smooth, only one still feels like it has a few nasties in it but overall it's still very good, I think I will just do a few quick oil changes on the bike to let the oil flush the last few bits out. I can't stress how much time it takes to get it all properly clean however, my hands were pretty sore and tingly from using the parts washer for half a day.


Next up is the carb while I wait for the engine bits to arrive.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:54 PM   #21
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I think all the XL talk on here lately is a sign.. I need to resurrect my XL.

Oh, and Chairman Meow..
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:44 PM   #22
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Me too,, resurect the XL that is,, working on putting together a pair of 175s. It's spring the the snow is melting, the ruts are deep but the dust is down,,, trails are calling..
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Old 03-31-2009, 03:24 PM   #23
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I used to have a '75 XL175. They are great little bikes, meant to be a fun general purpose bike and they do that perfectly. I put a 2 tooth larger sproket on the rear and that sucker would really climb hills. Top speed was 45 then though. Everything has a price.

Enjoying the build.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:35 AM   #24
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I think if anything I'm going to put a smaller rear sprocket or larger front (which I imagine would make a HUGE change, so maybe the rear..) to get it to cruise more comfortably at a slightly higher speed. I have read they do 50-55mph well, but i'd really like 60 for cruising county roads around MN.

Last night I finally went out and bought a can of carb cleaner and began all of that business. Really the carb didn't look so bad, just a little dirt on the outside and a little crust on the bottom of the bowl, but since we had to clean out the idle jet to get it to run I could only assume that the rest of the carb needed to be cleaned.
Crust on the bottom of the bowl:


My efforts paid off when I started to blast out some of the passages and ended up with a lot of dirt on the papertowel below . When I reassembled the carb I ended up using half of the parts from the keyster kit and half of the old parts. I put in new Honda gaskets that I got from the stealership. The bits in the keyster kit were NOTHING like the (main?) jet, but the one i took out of the carb was in great condition so I just used it.
One of these things is not like the other...

Anyway it's all back together and I'm confident it will do well. I still need to get some better hoses (for the carb and the crankcase breather), for the time being I put on some RC fuel line for the hoses.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:04 PM   #25
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The ebay bottom end came in the mail today, so like a kid on Christmas I tore the block open to get to my nice new gearset. There are a few metal flakes hanging on it, so I may just blast it off with carb cleaner and then shoot everything in the case with wd40 before I reassemble the engine so it has some sort of lubricant before I start it again. now just need those darn gaskets to show up
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Old 04-03-2009, 11:35 PM   #26
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Looking good, thanks for pix and details, gives me some idea of what the 175 will look like when I finally go in.
Good luck with the taller gearing efforts, I hope it pays off for you, usually tall gears just take the fun out of things for me.. Like it barely had the power to pull top speed originally and then it only made attaining top speed impossible.. I don't know, bad luck maybe,,
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Old 04-04-2009, 07:37 AM   #27
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i won't be changing the gearing right away
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Old 04-04-2009, 04:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2mk3
Anyway it's all back together and I'm confident it will do well. I still need to get some better hoses (for the carb and the crankcase breather), for the time being I put on some RC fuel line for the hoses.
You will find out that the silicone fuel line intended for alcohol model fuel won't hold up to gasoline. It will dissolve.
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:05 AM   #29
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consider it removed
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Old 04-05-2009, 10:56 AM   #30
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For what its worth, I think Keyster carb kits are just a bunch of random bits put in a bag and sold as a "model specific" kit. I bought two of them for the carbs on my 1966 Honda CB160 and some of the parts were the same and some of them weren't even close. The needles weren't even close to the right thing, so I ended up using a bunch of old carb parts instead. Whatever though, the carbs work perfectly now.
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