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Old 05-17-2009, 06:51 PM   #46
G2mk3 OP
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Add a some masking tape and high temp grill paint and you get:


I didn't really want it to be flat black, but I decided to use the high temp paint because I didn't know how hot the drum brake would actually get, plus I need to paint the exhaust too so it was a 2-fer.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:39 PM   #47
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it looks really good like that, I think
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:02 AM   #48
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Cam noise is normal. Just adjust it every 6 months. goood job on the restore.
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:04 PM   #49
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It turned out that spring for the cam tensioner was worn out. I ordered a new one for a 2002 xr200r (6 bucks at the stealership ), which was even a little bit better of a design. I pop'd that in and added a tiny bit of extra tension with my finger before I tightened it down. now the old girl runs like a singer sewing machine You can hear the chain sliding on the tensioners, but there is no chain "rattle" so to speak. If and when I take the motor apart again I'm gonna replace the chain as it is pretty worn out, but at least it doesn't sound like a breakdown is imminant

I'll post some updated photos once i get my new seat cover on, but even with just the wheels, new tires and the exhaust painted it is starting to look like a whole new machine.
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:40 PM   #50
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time for a little update:

Here are the wheels all said and done. they were pretty true after putting the new tires on, so I think the wobble I had on the front wheel was from the old tire going hard while flat. I don't get any shake in the top of 4th/5th gear anymore, but the duros sure don't like gravel as much as the old tires did, above 35mph the bike starts to wallow back and forth. Maybe new head bearings and rebuilding the fork (so it actually has oil in it) will help out with that.


I bought a seat cover from "pit replica" on ebay. The cover came about a week and a half after they "began to process" the order, so I'm happy with the shipping time. The material is so-so, if someone was trying to restore a bike properly I would NOT recommend buying a cover from them, but for my purposes and the $33 I spent for it shipped, well, it's much much better than what was on the bike.

It installed rather easy, the only problem was around the front of the seat, it wasn't very close to going over the corners, and even after I cut a bit of the corners away the fabric still began to tear JUST as I got it pulled far enough to secure the cover down. Hopefully it won't tear further, I don't really expect it to (at least very soon) because I was pulling pretty damn hard. I wouldn't necessarily blame this problem on their seat cover because first of all, it COULD be that worked my way around the seat in the wrong direct, thus not making the job any easier, second of all the seat cover was for a 79-80 xl125/185s, for all i know mine has different foam or seat pan, and third of all I didn't bother using any heat, which may have helped make it easier. So in short, for a average "renovation" of a older bike, their seat covers are worth a shot.

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Old 06-19-2009, 02:35 PM   #51
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Bike is looking good!

Thanks for the honest review of the "pit replica" cover from Ebay. I'm weighing options for the seat on my SL350 but it's hard to tell how decent the covers on Ebay actually are.
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Old 06-19-2009, 07:32 PM   #52
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Lookin good, what kind of tires are those?
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:50 PM   #53
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Duro 903/904 medians. I chose them because they are cheap and a bit more road oriented. In other threads a few people talk about them chunking, but on my sub 70mph - 200lb bike and me being a bit less than 200lbs, I'm not so worried about any of that. Oh, and did i mention they are cheap?
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Old 06-22-2009, 12:30 AM   #54
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xr185s cam chain

hi,your bike is looking good.always had a soft spot for the smaller hondas.to adjust your cam chain.if you remove the small bolt in the top of the tensioner lock nut there is a 3mm thread in the adjuster rod.get your self a long 3mm screw or possibly a spoke (i use a tail lamp screw)thread it into the adjuster.start the motor and with it idling undo the lock bolt(14mm head) and pull up on the screw just enough to get rid of the rattle.even when the bikes came in for the 1st service this was a much beter option.also keep a bit of lube on the advance unit as they dry out quite quickly and wear.if the bike is going to do a lot of work the best option is to remove the seal behind the advance unit and seal up the cover.drill a 4mm hole in the bottom of the cover to let oil drain back into the motor when stopped(less chance of an oil leak) hope this is helpfull.worked in a honda dealer thru the 80's,still working on bikes now.
regards wrench jockey New Zealand
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:12 PM   #55
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Thanks for the tip on the ignition advance!

None of the tensioners i have are threaded? All my problems were sorted when I put in a new xr200r tensioner spring so I'm content with that situation until I rebuild the motor.
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Old 07-12-2009, 12:40 PM   #56
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Talking Help :) XL 185 S Choke spring, metal cover and plastic lever setup

Howdy--

We just resurected an 82 XL 185 S from a farmers field and got it running from a seized state. Our biggest issue (aside from the pistion being seized) was the fuel left in the tank for 17 years. The tank we cleaned with sand, bb's and distilled water...worked great, but had to drill the fuel valve etc.

However, what brings me to you is that we can't figure out from the manual diagrams how to hook the choke spring, plastic lever and metal cable tie back onto the carb. Would anyone be willing to undo the choke screw on their 185 and snap some shots of the spring lay? I have the levers figured out, but I can't get the choke to return without that spring. I hate to admit it, but no matter how much beer I get in my gut--- I can't figure that spring out.

Any pics and description would be great---

We are back on the road!
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Old 07-13-2009, 11:23 AM   #57
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edit: oops, just realized you said the manual wasn't helping you. I remember it took me a while to figure out how it went on, I'll try to remember to take a picture of it all assembled the next time I'm out working on my bike.

I should have updated pictures of my bike soon, just waiting for my bigger pegs to come in the mail :). My sigma bike computer went out, and while the lads at the local bicycle store where I purchased it were useless, sigma was pretty quick to send me a new one. Maybe the world isn't so bad after all

The progress has been slow because I have been installing standalone ecu in my rally car:
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G2mk3 screwed with this post 07-15-2009 at 12:26 PM
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:21 PM   #58
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I ordered some big ebay pegs for a 95'-99' cr125/250 and am happy to report they are easy to modify to use on my old 185 and most likely other old hondas. Just need to cut a little off the shaft that the spring slides on and drill out the mounts to use a bigger bolt to match the internal diameter of the newer pegs.
A subtle difference
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G2mk3 screwed with this post 07-15-2009 at 12:27 PM
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Old 08-25-2009, 12:37 PM   #59
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I'm currently fixing up an 81 XL185S as well and need to get lights hooked up. Do you have any suggestions for starting out? It doesn't have any lights at all right now because the previous owner took them off. Also what voltage is the battery rated at? Thanks for any help
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:53 AM   #60
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the bike is 6v. i would start by matching up like colored wires and testing. if the headlight is bad or missing it can be a pain to find a good one, i ended up going to the aftermarket acerbis headlight and taillight that i can get 6v bulbs for. the lights will work w/o the battery with the bike running, but at idle everything will be very dim. my headlight switch is broken so i actually haven't done too much work on the lighting on my bike.
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