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Old 12-02-2009, 10:58 AM   #61
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Time to get this thread moving again.

So I had a bit of fun riding the bike around this summer, but now it's time for another round of problem fixing. Here are the pics before I took the spanners to it:



It looks decent when you don't photograph the dented side of the tank.

The first order is to give the fork some much needed attention.

Have some speedline rally wheels around? They make a great bike stand.


Ah yes. Ideal conditions for ball bearings to thrive...
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:03 AM   #62
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Chairman always takes a interest in such things. "HEY, get away from that or that fur will never be white again!"


I think I really lucked out on how easy they were to take a part, I had a pretty easy time. I was surprised by how much fluid came out, I was thinking I deposited it in all the fields I road around in. They sure were nasty, and in addition to a few little pin-sized dimples from rust on the tubes where they slide, there is some wear on the bottom of them as well. I was figuring for the purposes of this bike I would just make sure they are turned 90* when I clamp the tubes putting it back together? Opinions are welcome on that.



A few other questions I've come up with:

I have leak-proof fork seals, I bought a while back. I think I read somewhere on this site to only use oem stuff. Are these destined to leak right away? or will they just not last quite as long?

The dust boots seem pretty used up. I see a lot of people Neoprene covers on their forks, is this instead of using the dust boots or in addition to? If they tend to work better I was thinking I could just use some mountain bike ones as these forks are so small.

And lastly, any suggestions on what I should use to polish the tubes with? I haven't had any luck in finding the "super fine" steel wool around town, but then again I haven't looked THAT hard.
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G2mk3 screwed with this post 12-06-2009 at 09:14 AM
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Old 12-05-2009, 05:15 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by G2mk3
And lastly, any suggestions on what I should use to polish the tubes with? I haven't had any luck in finding the "super fine" steel wool around town, but then again I haven't looked THAT hard.
Steel wool can be found almost anywhere, I'm surprised you're having troubles. My favorites are big box home improvement stores and small town hardwares. Start with 0000, move up to 000 only if you have to.

If the pitting is too bad the fork tubes will need to be replaced. Any number of small bore Hondas used the same diameter fork tubes for years, shouldn't be too much trouble to find a used set. If that fails the ones from my 2005 CRF230 were only about $40 each at the dealer, can't imagine these would be more expensive.

Nice project, by the way. I'm currently tearing into a '79 XL185s that fell into my grasp. It too will be an around town runabout, but not until it gets stuffed into a 1997 CR125 chassis!

-Tom
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Old 12-06-2009, 09:26 AM   #64
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The few times I have looked I have only seen 00 and 000, but usually I forget to look, so the problem is probably just my effort. The pitting is pretty minimal, only 2 that I saw within the stroke of the dust seal and both are about the size of a pinhead (way < .5mm) so I think I'm just gonna use them as they are, now that I have a bigger bike this will mostly just romp around on gravel roads (and be a fun project ;).

It sure would be a blast to have the engine in a cr, are you going to bore or stroke the motor first? I got a used 67mm wiseco piston from owhyee, but decided not to use it when the local machinist pointed out the wear from the wrist pin seizing... and I managed to pick up a junk 200x cylinder, so after all that I decided to postpone engine work on this bike and just get the front end back in decent shape.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:12 AM   #65
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If the pitting is as minor as you say a trick I used with mountain bike forks is to clean the area with rubbing alcohol and fill the pits/scrapes with nail polish (colour is optional but clear was preferred) then simply sand it down with a really fine sand paper. It worked great, was super cheap, and will help keep the oil in the forks where it belongs.

...and yes I am thick skinned so flame away
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:15 PM   #66
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Wow great project and i am shocked that no one caught the B-series Mini earlier!

Threads like this are starting to motivate me to work on my CB!
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:36 PM   #67
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Neil asked about the mini. Get goin on that CB! I've had some much fun with this bike it really made me consider getting a cb125 and throwing in a built xr200 motor. considering my bike gets along well at 60mph, I think a cb like that would boogie pretty good, and be a hoot in the twisties. If my xv doesn't end up how I want it to be that will actually probably be what i'll do.

banjopete - I'm gonna give that nail polish trick a try. did you use like 3000 grit sandpaper? I looked again and could only find 3 - MAYBE 4 - spots where the oil seal will go over.


No opinions about the using the neoprene covers instead of new dust seals?
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:52 PM   #68
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decisions decisions . I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the sherpa fender.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:06 PM   #69
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decisions decisions . I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go with the sherpa fender.
You have my vote.... more retro looking that the other.
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:50 PM   #70
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Yesterday I got the fender mounted and the front end back on the bike. Although the fender still needs a bit of adjusting so it doesn't hit the tire, I'm overall very happy with the look of the bike. I think it gives the bike 20% more scrambler feel I'm not so happy with the feel of the forks however, I think there is a lot of air trapped somewhere or they are under filled.

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Old 12-03-2011, 03:38 PM   #71
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I too vote for the sherpa fender. Where did you get it, I might want to put one on my XL185S, which I just got.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=746462

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